Originally posted by Evan D
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Originally posted by Delta_19 View PostMore pressure changed his tune.
We have plastic gearboxes, plastic suspension arms, torsion bar suspension and, adjustable idlers.
still no idea what the IR battle system is and he also states that more metal parts will come out in "phase 2"
One it is 3D printed and 3D printed lower tank hulls are known to be rather weak compared to the nylon type plastic hulls of HL tanks or toy market segment tanks.
Two there is NO battery box or access point for the battery which means taking the upper hull off to access the battery. Yet seeing he is using what appears to be HL like body & screw posts would indicate the hulls are screwed together? He might be using some type of latching method or magnets not seen in the photos, but that would be a poor idea given that this is a “toy” tank intended for kids. Giving a young child access to the internal workings of a “toy” is a recipe for....... well things to go wrong.
Third are the gearboxes. I recognize them and they have never been quality ..... parts. Let us hope the production tanks keep the mounting points for the HL transmission as Mr W has said would be included so the shown gearboxes can be replaced upon opening the box.
Like any tank there will be needed aftermarket changes to make these more durable and nothing I am seeing can’t be overcome and improved upon once we get these in our hands.
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post
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Well, posting photos of preproduction products is always a catch 22. I would say it has it's merits as people can give constructive criticism, but it is a pre production model. Lots of things are not in stone. I know this because I design products and it takes two or three years sometimes to work out the bugs. Most of my designs get some sort of redo about a year after the first production run. Is that my fault? No I don't take it personal. Lots of times it is taking customer suggestions that compromise the product. Usually, a customer that has already committed to buying the majority of the first production run. This guy might have the same issue. Certain customer wants a certain price point so that is who he is satisfying. Just saying give the guy a little wiggle room this may be his issue.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!
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Originally posted by Delta_19 View PostAs for the battery access it could be a hatch on the top or rear.
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostI would hope that instead of claiming that he was beaten into submission, folks will appreciate his acceptance of customers desires in a positive manner.
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I asked CoolBank about the battery access issue. Here's his reply:
"Yes, if you want to replace the battery, you must loosen a few screws to remove the upper cover, but if it is just charging? You can directly use the charging head on the power switch."
I'm not sure what he means by a charging head on the power switch. In any event after 25 years in the r/c hobby, I'd be reluctant to charge a LiIon battery in a vehicle, especially without using a balance tap. And knowing that the constant tightening and loosening of screws will eventually break the plastic posts, I think magnets will have to be the solution. I'm going to try this shape. It should fit into the posts after I drill out 3/16" holes. I'll test it on my Heng Long tanks and let you know.
I'm ordering these from "K&J Magnetics" online. Lots of goodies there!Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostI asked CoolBank about the battery access issue. Here's his reply:
"Yes, if you want to replace the battery, you must loosen a few screws to remove the upper cover, but if it is just charging? You can directly use the charging head on the power switch."
I'm not sure what he means by a charging head on the power switch. In any event after 25 years in the r/c hobby, I'd be reluctant to charge a LiIon battery in a vehicle, especially without using a balance tap. And knowing that the constant tightening and loosening of screws will eventually break the plastic posts, I think magnets will have to be the solution. I'm going to try this shape. It should fit into the posts after I drill out 3/16" holes. I'll test it on my Heng Long tanks and let you know.
I'm ordering these from "Evan Design" online. Lots of goodies there!
Adding an external power charging “jack” somewhere on the tank to charge a LiPoly or Li-Ion battery that is sealed inside the hull? I can’t see anything going wrong there (being sarcastic). Now with NiMH batteries that is a reasonable safe thing and I have a few tanks set up that way.
We have to remember its only intended to be a “toy” for young kids not a hobby grade tank for the enthusiast and we should only judge it as Mr W says “as a toy” not intended for us. It’s going to need a bunch of modification and upgrade work if it arrives as shown in the photos being posted online.
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Hey, a challenge is always fun! I can thinks of posters in the past saying they immediately modified their tanks to use magnets because it was "better". Well, here's an opportunity! Seriously though, literally every single one of my tanks has been modified to some point or another. As far as charging, CB's isn't a new idea. For instance, my Mato M36 came with a charging jack to charge the lithium poly battery inside! Lipo! What were they thinking? That's not gonna happen.Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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I just take the tops off. Rarely are my hulls screwed together. My DKlM m60 the upper hull slides forward as there are tabs that it latches on with man
gents on the bow top and bottom.
the Sherman’s just hold together well without screws.
the leopard 1a7 I just set it together no screws as well as the Merkava. I drive them pretty hard and haven’t had a problem so far.
if his hull is strong, one could easily just use two opposing corner screws to hold it together.
but charging in the tank, I don’t like to do that, like Bob said.RC tank parts and accessories I make
www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html
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Originally posted by RichJohnson View PostI’ve now had some back and forth communication with Mr Wang privately.
he is very stuck on the toy market aspect of his m60s and a price point of $200 ish.
he has told me they are not hobby grade and based on what he says they are going to be all plastic and much cheaper in quality than the current line of henglong tanks.
Im starting to get a bad feeling out the M60 model quality.
It took Heng Long many years to build their hobbyist market share. I have a 2005 Pershing. HL had the foresight to not cut corner on the tank chassis integrity, suspension and gearbox mounting. My early metal upgrade looked good, ran well with the 5.3 version RC. But the overall result was not good enough because the Mato sourced metal track kept breaking even on smooth indoor floor. Last year (2021), I completed a 3rd upgrade of the 2005 Pershing with HL 6.0s RC system, Heng Xin gearbox, Tamiya 380 motor and the HL metal track. Earlier this year, I further improved the HL metal track with small rubber blocks. The latest upgraded Pershing still does not look as good as with the Mato track, but it runs super well even on grass lawn which is more difficult than dirt road. I give Heng Long full credit for their product foresight. I sure got my money's worth on the 2005 Pershing.
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Honestly I have no problems with an internal battery and charging via an external jack, IF the charging circuit is good.
A 20A 7.4V BMS is like $20 for single purchase, in bulk it can be a lot cheaper.
So if this tank turns out to be running 2 18650's in series hooked up to a BMS I don't see a problem, that's how laptops charge, cellphones, personal E-vheicles so on an so forth. But, if it's just a basic wall charger running straight to the batteries then yes that's a problem.
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Originally posted by DavidN View PostI will definitely do so for both. My 2 HL Pershing really need the longer barrels with the correct muzzle brakes.
Toucan-China Fleabay
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