My T72 came from the factory with one track reversed.
I am asking because in Crawling, sometimes people do reverse the tires, specially tires with "V" Pattern to get more grip in climbs the dowsize is of course when it goes down or to break the grip is not that much.
Thank you all for the replies.
WIsh you all a great weekend ;).
Another question.
Is it normal the tank with the tracks reversed?
Not both on same way?
I have seen some like the one in bellow and i dont know what is the correct position of the tracks.
Anyone can reply?
My T72 came from the factory with one track reversed.
Another question.
Is it normal the tank with the tracks reversed?
Not both on same way?
I have seen some like the one in bellow and i dont know what is the correct position of the tracks.
Anyone can reply?
The most economical ball bearing gearbox for M41 Bulldog is the Taigen gearbox version 2. The website below is in the US, but you can easily find Taigen/Torro parts in Europe. You want the High/Low, 3:1, 58mm Gearbox for your tank.
I have the Pershing tank, not the Bulldog. The Heng Xin with 380 motor and the Taigen with 390 motor can both fit the Pershing alright. Hope that someone with Bulldog experience can tell you more specifically. Good luck.
Thank you for all the help.
Lets hope someone with experience comment, or in the future i can ask to the seller to see if it fits or no .
;)
But i will keep the links provided for sure.
The one i bough is suppose to have all of that execept the ball bearing gearbox.
Can you prvide a link for that metal gearbox with bearings? for a future update?
Preferably a supplyer from europe, or from aliexpress.
I never had experience with tanks, although a long time ago my first rc was with rubber tracks (an excavator) i run it untill all wear out, really fun.
it was at the time still by wire, lol.
The most economical ball bearing gearbox for M41 Bulldog is the Taigen gearbox version 2. The website below is in the US, but you can easily find Taigen/Torro parts in Europe. You want the High/Low, 3:1, 58mm Gearbox for your tank.
I have the Pershing tank, not the Bulldog. The Heng Xin with 380 motor and the Taigen with 390 motor can both fit the Pershing alright. Hope that someone with Bulldog experience can tell you more specifically. Good luck.
Well at the moment i am located in Poland, Wroclaw city.
Although i dont speak polish, lol.
Thats why i did not went to the polish forum for now, but of course when the baby arrives i will try to find some friends to play with the HUGE help of google translator, but even so the translations are not quit good from and to polish.
Cravo, the main reason for metal reinforcements is to regain hull strength when you replace the screws with magnets. Many people do this to get quicker access to the tank's interior. Eliminating the four, six or even eight screws reduces the structural strength. As long as you stay with the screw assembly, there's really no need to reinforce the lower hull.
I know you are in "sponge mode", sucking up every bit of info you can. We've all done that. However, my advice is to get whatever tank you like and run it. See how it performs, and add the modifications you want to make it do what you want. Some folks here never take their tanks outside, some punish them severely on torture tracks, and most like myself are somewhere in between. I've never had a plastic track break. I've never had a hull twist so much it developed cracks. I have had a few suspension arms break when driving off edges, but they were all metal anyway. Just fix what breaks, don't worry what might break in the future.
Thanks for the advice.
My idea is just to prevent things before they happen thats why.
Now i understand the reason of the reinforcements, to have quicker acess for maintenance.
I also like to ride in a good pace, not to be a queen shelf but also not to destroy it.
But enjoy every bit of it.
I already ordered it and pay, problem is that it will only arrive arround the end of October :(.
Yes i buy the metal version as well, i think its called PROFESSIONAL version.
But i still need to see with what it comes in fact.
U did not even reinforced the plastic hull bellow?
i saw lots of people putting some pieces of aluminun on the sides and glue them to the plastic hull to prevent the hull to twist and break, and also i have seen some of the versions in uphills the hull goes completly up because of the added weight on the back (metal gears, transmission and motor).
Cravo, the main reason for metal reinforcements is to regain hull strength when you replace the screws with magnets. Many people do this to get quicker access to the tank's interior. Eliminating the four, six or even eight screws reduces the structural strength. As long as you stay with the screw assembly, there's really no need to reinforce the lower hull.
I know you are in "sponge mode", sucking up every bit of info you can. We've all done that. However, my advice is to get whatever tank you like and run it. See how it performs, and add the modifications you want to make it do what you want. Some folks here never take their tanks outside, some punish them severely on torture tracks, and most like myself are somewhere in between. I've never had a plastic track break. I've never had a hull twist so much it developed cracks. I have had a few suspension arms break when driving off edges, but they were all metal anyway. Just fix what breaks, don't worry what might break in the future.
With your crawler experience, you are well aware of the wear issue. Replacing the HL metal parts with ball bearing gearbox, idler wheel and road wheels goes a long way improving the durability problem. But they are much more expensive than the HL metal parts that you already invested in. The HL metal track is robust and runs fine outdoor. It does not look good due to the single pin and is slippery on indoor floor. A metal track with rubber pad is the best of both worlds, but much, much more expensive.
The one i bough is suppose to have all of that execept the ball bearing gearbox.
Can you prvide a link for that metal gearbox with bearings? for a future update?
Preferably a supplyer from europe, or from aliexpress.
I never had experience with tanks, although a long time ago my first rc was with rubber tracks (an excavator) i run it untill all wear out, really fun.
it was at the time still by wire, lol.
I understand, and i know more will weight will add MORE STRESS to gearbox, driveline, less run time and quicker wear of the parts.
I have an Axial Wraith Crawler (money pit) and i understand that.
But i would like to balance it a litle bit better and maybe doesnt tip so easily like that.
Another question is how to improve traction?
Any cheap ideas or you are going to say change the tracks? More $$$, lol.
The idea is improve but not break the bank.
I am also planning to do some small acessories to put on it all dyi.
With your crawler experience, you are well aware of the wear issue. Replacing the HL metal parts with ball bearing gearbox, idler wheel and road wheels goes a long way improving the durability problem. But they are much more expensive than the HL metal parts that you already invested in. The HL metal track is robust and runs fine outdoor. It does not look good due to the single pin and is slippery on indoor floor. A metal track with rubber pad is the best of both worlds, but much, much more expensive.
Most videos I have of my tanks are FPV. The video where you say that looks fine to me. If you draw a line through the center of the tank most is behind the piece of wood. But if it bothers you add weight but more weight doesn't mean more traction.
I understand, and i know more will weight will add MORE STRESS to gearbox, driveline, less run time and quicker wear of the parts.
I have an Axial Wraith Crawler (money pit) and i understand that.
But i would like to balance it a litle bit better and maybe doesnt tip so easily like that.
Another question is how to improve traction?
Any cheap ideas or you are going to say change the tracks? More $$$, lol.
The idea is improve but not break the bank.
I am also planning to do some small acessories to put on it all dyi.
Most videos I have of my tanks are FPV. The video where you say that looks fine to me. If you draw a line through the center of the tank most is behind the piece of wood. But if it bothers you add weight but more weight doesn't mean more traction.
There are different versions and different names. Motion does have a version called professional but it is not all metal, not having metal road wheels. Also doesn't have the 360 turret.
No reinforcement at all. It's a smaller tank and doesn't need it. The metal treads and road wheels help alot.
Thanks a lot for the input.
Do you have any videos of it running and climbing into obstacles or uphills?
i saw some videos on youtube of this tank the metal version and it seems the front raises too much due to lack of weight but as i said i migh be wrong or it may be a metal version but not with all metal components.
look the video bellow at minute 1.58s
There are different versions and different names. Motion does have a version called professional but it is not all metal, not having metal road wheels. Also doesn't have the 360 turret.
Leave a comment: