Rescued Abrams build

[Handy Lance]

I’m upgrading to Holmes 180 66t for the turret rotation motor, I needed more speed and smoother movement. Disassembled turret rotation tranny and have to modify to fit new longer motor.

My pushrod recoil works perfectly, a little ECO Power servo works great. I like the airsoft, now i can keep it and have servo recoil.

Installing a top of the line Reefs 99 micro for barrel elevation, crazy hold power for the size. Much smoother elevation now. Its speed is needed for the next big thing I’m going to try.

After 5 batteries I NEEDed smoother barrel movement. I did not like the herky OEM movement and loud clicking at full travel🤮
I achieved my goal with flying colors. Vid coming soon.


up next !!!!!!!
RC car drift gyro elevation stabilizer!?!??
im going to give it a shot 🫡😂🦧🙌🏻

[Handy Lance]

Awesome speaker upgrade. Even after the improvements the oem speakers were lackluster. So I ordered

Tang Band T1-1931S Speaker Module 3-1/2" x 1-7/16"

worth every penny.

install took 10 min. Using the M3 printed tubes to mount the speaker. The pre printed M3 mount tubes I made are super versatile. Cut to any size, crazy strong bond with chassis.

I’ve shown the connections needed to install. Handles loudest setting, I like level 4-5

[Handy Lance]

Looks to me, you have it dialled. I like the way it squats at the rear.

Thanks, yeah it’s so much better. It’s nice when hours of work gives good results
Just need to put some “scale” miles on it now👍🏻

[Meter Rat]

Looks to me, you have it dialled. I like the way it squats at the rear.

[Handy Lance]

Here is the suspension video. I feel like I’m getting really good balance and suspension play. No bottoming out on the full throttle bumps. If anything maybe ballast up front will be needed. It was pretty bad before. Belly almost rubbing on ground.

It is fun to pin the throttle on this thing. I know it’s not scale. But it’s fun.

Testing is almost finished. Bugs are almost ironed out

Got some LegoDEI modular targets, one for tuning, one mobile ( I’ll have a moving target on an Axial scx24 😉)
Used Together they will allow me to really dial in my understanding of the IR spread. I know it’s a cone of sorts, but I want to know exactly how to manipulate it. Also got me a v.3 receiver on the way. I’ll be doing a stronger IR bulb reset in tube to battle specs. Then I’ll be practicing.

https://youtu.be/BFPPYi1GJGE?si=McSyqTRgvX1kFBTP

[Durahl]

just hanging my tank from its front tow shackles.

https://youtube.com/shorts/i__jwpac-5E?si=aX8kjf7Zqo3mOfcf

"Halt mein Bier!" - E-100 ( front Tow Shackles / rear Tow Shackles )
The way how these are mounted to the Model I'm quite confident that they're going nowhere unless you remove the Bolt that goes through them.
The only failure point lies with the Towing Cable... While the majority of the Cable is a genuine 3mm Steel Cable the Eyelets are unfortunately not ( couldn't splice it ).

[Handy Lance]

just hanging my tank from its front tow shackles.

https://youtube.com/shorts/i__jwpac-5E?si=aX8kjf7Zqo3mOfcf

😂😂😂
Hot Racing Tow Shackles.

I crack myself up

[Handy Lance]

Goal——be able to adjust suspension on paper for any additional changes in weight, and to easily make changes for any performance/scale handling needs that arise. Without guessing or dissembling more than required.

Tuning springs with trigger pull gauge. While not perfect it will be much easier to make real changes and “tune” the suspension in advance with much less guessing and time wasting.

I added a hole at 12 o clock for 3 spring adjustment points
switching springs sides gives me 3 more levels of tension

to measure I pulled bogey to “bottomed out” as I let tension out I measured spring as soon as bogey began to lower.
6 levels of tension from
7oz-1.75lbs

stock was 8 oz each

stiffest I can get is 1.75 lbs left spring on right side in the stiffest hole.



I estimate 15-17 lb tank

so 10 main bogeys support most of tank. I want a bit of droop so I’ll set the 10 springs at 1.2lbs (L on R middle hole) for 12lbs. The end bogeys will get 1lb each to catch tank as it hits objects in droop but not be as stiff as mains. For a total of 16lbs spring tension to fully bottom out tank. Will provide video of tank once wheels have been re-installed.
After that bogeys will be adjusted in pairs as needed. A quick drop of red paint easily separates L and R springs.

tracks are un spung 2.5 lbs so some adjustments may be necessary

[Handy Lance]

Fuel ups are so easy! I’m guessing, 45-1.5 hours of run time. I got 45 in and was at 30-40 percent Jet A left in tank.

Tank handles great. No heat issues. Stump pulling torque. Tossed a track in gravel, popped it back on. No issues since. staying out of the gravel, not fair for tank.

working out suspension bugs

I’m going to keep airsoft, it’s too much fun. I will be doing a servo activated sleeved push rod recoil system. Using Dubro 852, micro pushrod system.

I’ll mount the servo remotely in turret. Connecting via flexible pushrods directly to oem recoil connection on barrel.

The Heng Long BBs are devastating to the airsoft unit. Do NOT use! I know most know, but do NOT use the stock BBs. I use these Elite Force .25 gram (mid heavy)
perfectly round, and claimed bio-degrading. I stretched the stock spring and cut down a tight bore barrel to replace the stock drinking straw they called a barrel.
It’s a real cannon now!!!!, however the longevity of the stock airsoft components has been seriously compromised😂😂👍🏻

[Meter Rat]

Thank you for the pictures. And the explanation. It now make a bit more sense.

[Handy Lance]

hope this helps understand

[Handy Lance]

Ah! A child’s favourite question. ‘Ow fast is that go mister.
That may be so. But I would hate to think I might be partially responsible for destroying an inexperienced, or young person pride and joy. I have read a lot of information on here and on other sites. I am also an engineer, so I am able to make logical calculations. These are “toys” and if I break it, I am able to repair it, others might not. Strengthen one part, and the next weakest link will break. I didn’t just rush into this experiment, others might. Hence why I took Rubicon 99 point.
As I said I am enjoying this build and will employ some of what you have built, and lessons learned from my Challenger. I still haven’t worked out how your latching mechanism works.

ill get better pics if it helps.

It’s an adjustable (attached to another L welded to upper hull) L shape piece slotted to grab lower screw towers (preventing any lateral movement) , and another ABS piece with notches to accept the notched L tabs (described above) and attached to lower towers,sides and bottom. I used the oem screw towers on the chassis upper hull and lower as reference points, then cut them off upper as they interfere when sliding forward.
Think 2 L back to back one slides on the other

2x upper hull L attachment pieces welded to inside of upper hull (slotted on side with M4)
2x upper hull adjustable L pieces, with slots wide enough for lower towers,
attached with M4 hardware to L attachments welded to hull
2x M4 bolt/nylock combo
1x lower chassis plate to accept L tabs from upper
welded to oem towers, bottom of hull, and sides of hull

put top hull down 1/2” back from normal position . Gentle pressure down to hold top down and a firm push forward. Tabs engage lower towers and L fits under plate . Holds perfect



I apologize if I’m not making sense.

[Meter Rat]

We assume no responsibility for broken toys because someone reads what we do! Everything is at the readers own risk. 3s is always better if done correctly. I get stripping gears and what not, but I would apply “done correctly “ here. There’s a lot that goes into getting these heavy tanks properly setup for 3s. It took me an hour and a half to shim and regrease the trannys. 3s would’ve torn my tank apart or burned it up stock. Plus fuses are even more important at higher voltages. I do think all the functions act better now on 3s then the oem 2s battery. I know the get same voltages but it’s a crisper movement and sound now.

I work in a hobby store when I’m not building furniture. I deal with goofballs all the time. I help them, laugh at them and move on. I like helping genuine knowledge seekers, not ….”duh….. what’s the fastest ya gaht” customers.


Side note
blew a motor fuse 10a with some sucked up carpet. Replaced with 15a prob hang at 15a no more.

Ah! A child’s favourite question. ‘Ow fast is that go mister.
That may be so. But I would hate to think I might be partially responsible for destroying an inexperienced, or young person pride and joy. I have read a lot of information on here and on other sites. I am also an engineer, so I am able to make logical calculations. These are “toys” and if I break it, I am able to repair it, others might not. Strengthen one part, and the next weakest link will break. I didn’t just rush into this experiment, others might. Hence why I took Rubicon 99 point.
As I said I am enjoying this build and will employ some of what you have built, and lessons learned from my Challenger. I still haven’t worked out how your latching mechanism works.

[Handy Lance]

We seem to be hijacking Handy Lance’s post. Sorry.

it’s on topic👍🏻

[Handy Lance]

Point taken. I too, forget that others, less experienced than myself may be reading what I have written.

We assume no responsibility for broken toys because someone reads what we do! Everything is at the readers own risk. 3s is always better if done correctly. I get stripping gears and what not, but I would apply “done correctly “ here. There’s a lot that goes into getting these heavy tanks properly setup for 3s. It took me an hour and a half to shim and regrease the trannys. 3s would’ve torn my tank apart or burned it up stock. Plus fuses are even more important at higher voltages. I do think all the functions act better now on 3s then the oem 2s battery. I know the get same voltages but it’s a crisper movement and sound now.

I work in a hobby store when I’m not building furniture. I deal with goofballs all the time. I help them, laugh at them and move on. I like helping genuine knowledge seekers, not ….”duh….. what’s the fastest ya gaht” customers.


Side note
blew a motor fuse 10a with some sucked up carpet. Replaced with 15a prob hang at 15a no more.

[Meter Rat]

Ohhhh you go with your bad self Mr. Rat! I totally look forward to your experiment, hopefully cool pics and vids and of course the obligatory results/repair posts...😉

We seem to be hijacking Handy Lance’s post. Sorry.

[Meter Rat]

I caught what you were saying, but others unfortunately may not have. Keep in mind this forum mostly draws very new people to the RC tank world and will in their minds possibly read it as "its safe to use 3s Lipos". I have seen it happen a number of time on this forum. So what I wrote was more intended as a caution to the wider reading audience.

I recently received a PM related to this thread asking about how I jump my tanks, is it safe to do and does it break things🥴🥴? I sometimes too forget who reads this forum.

Point taken. I too, forget that others, less experienced than myself may be reading what I have written.

[MrChef]

Tongue in cheek comment.
I have perused most of the treads that have been written, and taken on board what has been said, on previous posts. This is a fun experiment to see what the speed differences will be between 2S full power, 3S, low power, and 3S full power. Not an attempt to destroy it. Most of the time I am happy with a 2S battery, plenty fast enough for an old codger like me.

Ohhhh you go with your bad self Mr. Rat! I totally look forward to your experiment, hopefully cool pics and vids and of course the obligatory results/repair posts...😉

[MrChef]

The real things can fly.

annnnnd thennnnnn

[Rubicon99]

Tongue in cheek comment.
I have perused most of the treads that have been written, and taken on board what has been said, on previous posts. This is a fun experiment to see what the speed differences will be between 2S full power, 3S, low power, and 3S full power. Not an attempt to destroy it. Most of the time I am happy with a 2S battery, plenty fast enough for an old codger like me.

I caught what you were saying, but others unfortunately may not have. Keep in mind this forum mostly draws very new people to the RC tank world and will in their minds possibly read it as "its safe to use 3s Lipos". I have seen it happen a number of time on this forum. So what I wrote was more intended as a caution to the wider reading audience.

I recently received a PM related to this thread asking about how I jump my tanks, is it safe to do and does it break things🥴🥴? I sometimes too forget who reads this forum.