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TONGDE M60A3 MAKEOVER AND INSTALLATION OF AFTERMARKET PARTS

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  • TONGDE M60A3 MAKEOVER AND INSTALLATION OF AFTERMARKET PARTS

    Hi all,

    I will be painting and detailing the M60A3 to more accurate paint scheme as well as adding details and recoil kit from Rich Johnson. I appreciate any feedback you can offer. Dai

  • #2
    First is removing the highly inaccurate and thick vinyl decals. The residue is tough and I had to use lacquer thinner to remove it. Dai
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #3
      I remove the idler wheels, the rubber rings and the plastic tracks. There are 4 screws on the bottom and the upper hull was removed with ease. Dai
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        I mark every single wire to where they should go back to the MFU board. Dai
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          Now is removing the turret from the base by removing the screws that hold down the turret ring. There are some thin wires that are soldered into the base of the cannon so I could not completely remove the cannon. Dai
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            Now I have to find out how this recoil unit drops fit into the turret? In the mean time will start painting the tank as soon as the paints arrive. Dai
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #7
              For M60 barrel recoil, the most important task IS the mantle modification. The review started by Rubicon99 is a must read.
              Finally got in a metal version TD M60A3. Unfortunately things are not starting off well. It arrived with a broken main gun mount, broken rear engine exhaust panel and jammed left side gearbox. On a positive note the gears are steel and the gearboxes are all have bearings. Also the arrangement is the same as used in HL

              Click image for larger version  Name:	480FDA37-2E6E-40F3-81AC-1A031E6BD918.jpg Views:	0 Size:	52.5 KB ID:	411493 Click image for larger version  Name:	800D33D8-1827-4B41-B475-D5FB1416BA0F.jpg Views:	0 Size:	20.9 KB ID:	411492 Click image for larger version  Name:	DEA8BA4A-CFD0-435F-AB8F-7B89CA77B4E5.jpg Views:	0 Size:	49.8 KB ID:	411488 Click image for larger version  Name:	35950574-20AF-43D8-9C4E-A55261803852.jpg Views:	0 Size:	83.0 KB ID:	411490 Click image for larger version  Name:	D9FE8A12-DA0F-4F47-93EA-A250C0097F8B.jpg Views:	0 Size:	50.2 KB ID:	411489 Click image for larger version  Name:	36032576-530F-4C36-9746-B2EE5D2946BF.jpg Views:	0 Size:	45.8 KB ID:	411487
              Picture credit belongs to Rubicon99

              I use my own modified barrel using the OEM barrel. It is off scale, but works.
              Click image for larger version

Name:	Barrel_mod.jpg
Views:	373
Size:	83.8 KB
ID:	411491 ​​

              Comment


              • #8
                Hi all,

                I look at SoCalBobS photo and assemble the servo like in his photo. However the resin servo discs do not fit into the servo screw. One is too big and the other is too small. Also the holes do not have teeth for them to bind to the servo screw? Dai
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #9
                  Ok, I remove the mantle from the base by unscrewing the 2 screws. The metal cannon barrel is like glued in and I could not remove it. I tried and even use a plier and hammer but the metal barrel would not bulge at all ! Dai
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by keilau View Post
                    For M60 barrel recoil, the most important task IS the mantle modification. The review started by Rubicon99 is a must read.
                    Finally got in a metal version TD M60A3. Unfortunately things are not starting off well. It arrived with a broken main gun mount, broken rear engine exhaust panel and jammed left side gearbox. On a positive note the gears are steel and the gearboxes are all have bearings. Also the arrangement is the same as used in HL

                    Click image for larger version Name:	480FDA37-2E6E-40F3-81AC-1A031E6BD918.jpg Views:	0 Size:	52.5 KB ID:	411493 Click image for larger version Name:	800D33D8-1827-4B41-B475-D5FB1416BA0F.jpg Views:	0 Size:	20.9 KB ID:	411492 Click image for larger version Name:	DEA8BA4A-CFD0-435F-AB8F-7B89CA77B4E5.jpg Views:	0 Size:	49.8 KB ID:	411488 Click image for larger version Name:	35950574-20AF-43D8-9C4E-A55261803852.jpg Views:	0 Size:	83.0 KB ID:	411490 Click image for larger version Name:	D9FE8A12-DA0F-4F47-93EA-A250C0097F8B.jpg Views:	0 Size:	50.2 KB ID:	411489 Click image for larger version Name:	36032576-530F-4C36-9746-B2EE5D2946BF.jpg Views:	0 Size:	45.8 KB ID:	411487
                    Picture credit belongs to Rubicon99

                    I use my own modified barrel using the OEM barrel. It is off scale, but works.
                    Click image for larger version

Name:	Barrel_mod.jpg
Views:	373
Size:	83.8 KB
ID:	411491 ​​
                    Thanks so much. I have been reading through it. Thanks Dai

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      OK I was finally able to remove the metal cannon. I had to twist up/down/left/right to break the glue joint then tap the barrel out. Next will be filling the inside the hole to remove the flat spot as advised by Rich. Dai
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Sanded the flat spot round and ensure the resin barrel can slide in and out of the hole. Now I need to read Rich's instruction on how to install the recoil unit. Dai
                        Attached Files

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I think this is right way to install the recoil unit. The white bar on the elevation unit barely gets into the resin grove and goes off track many times. I think this is the way on how the serve wheel is screwed in. However the whole assembly of the recoil unit just floats around and there are no attchement points with screws that I can see. Dai
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I am sure I am missing something here but I do not see how the recoil unit is firmly held in place without any attachment points.The BB uniti has a circular protrusion that goes into a bar that is screwed into the back. That bar piece does not fit into anything on the recoil unit. Dai
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by dai phan View Post
                              Hi all,

                              I look at SoCalBobS photo and assemble the servo like in his photo. However the resin servo discs do not fit into the servo screw. One is too big and the other is too small. Also the holes do not have teeth for them to bind to the servo screw? Dai
                              There are two gears to accommodate different servos. Not all servos have the same size output gear. And since many people like to use their own servo two different sizes are included.

                              The one with the smaller hole is the one to use with the blue servo. It is designed to pressure fit onto the servo and as it does the teeth "cut" into it.

                              Unfortunately the reference you used in Bobs thread shows the gear installed in the wrong direction. Remember Bob stated he had a prototype unit. And such at the time the exact method of installation was not yet fully vetted.

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                Hi all,

                                I was just on the phone with Rich and what a super nice guy trying to help me to succeed. I think this is the way the servo dish is attached to the supplied servo. The other with a bigger hole is for another servo Emax I believe. These photos show you the way the dish is attached to the servo. The picture of the servo dish is when you are looking at it after you screw in the servo. Dai
                                Attached Files

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  Originally posted by dai phan View Post
                                  Hi all,

                                  I was just on the phoen with Rich and what a super nice guy trying to help me to succeed. I think this is the way the servo dish is attached to the supplied servo. The other with a bigger hole is for another servo Emax I believe. These photos show you the way the dish is attached to the servo. The picture of the servo dish is when you are looking at it after you screw in the servo. Dai
                                  Yea that is the correct way.

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    I also discussed with Rich on the white rod on the elevation unit being too short to fit onto the elevation chanel. Rich advised me to get a brass tube and slide into the white rod to make the extension. There is room in the slot to accomodate for the increased thickness. This should allow the recoil unit to stay put. Dai
                                    Attached Files

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      Some of the newer M60 tanks the bar that sticks off of the elevation unit and engages with the track on the side of the recoil unit is not as long for some reason. It looks like you will have to glue a tab to the side of the elevation bar and make it longer, or drill it and put a screw into it to extend its length a little bit.

                                      This has been a slightly frustrating issue that TD seems to have some tanks with this issue and I cannot plan for that kind of fit so far.
                                      Another thing that could be done is file the shaft down a little smaller and slide a brass tube over it to extend it to mate into the track on the side of the recoil unit.

                                      As I wrote this, you called me. Great chat, and we were thinking alike on the elevation arm modification.
                                      As we discussed I am going to look into the couple unopened M60s I have on hand here and look at their turrets and see if they have the same elvation arm issue and look into including an adapter or something for that if the customer has one that has the issue.


                                      RC tank parts and accessories I make
                                      www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

                                      Comment


                                      • #20
                                        Originally posted by dai phan View Post
                                        I also discussed with Rich on the white rod on the elevation unit being too short to fit onto the elevation chanel. Rich advised me to get a brass tube and slide into the white rod to make the extension. There is room in the slot to accomodate for the increased thickness. This should allow the recoil unit to stay put. For extra security I will drill a hole in the back of the recoil unit (nothing goes this far back) and add a screw through a vertical bracing arm in the turret to keep everything stay put and tight. Dai
                                        When the "short" lifting arm issue pops up and it does pop up for both HL and TD tanks I simply use a small screw added to the end of the lifting arm to lengthen it. Works great!

                                        The the "lifting arm" type elevation units have three to four different "arm" lengths and are tank type dependent. But hey it's China and when they run short of the correct parts during assembly they just grab whatever looks close from another supply bin.

                                        The arm being shorter does not really effect the stock tank to much so HL and TD can usually get away with using one that many be a little to short because the airsoft unit drastically limits the amount of travel up and down. When using an aftermarket servo recoil the movement of the recoil "breach" has more freedom of movement and the shorter arm substitution becomes obvious.

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