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Roban AH-1W Cobra 700 Size Scale Helicopter

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  • Spinny Testaverde
    replied
    Originally posted by F106DeltaDart View Post
    Just got the video of my gun turret mod uploaded. The FPV footage turned out a bit washed out, but it looks better in person. Overall, I’m pretty happy with how it’s turned out so far.
    This is awesome.

    Leave a comment:


  • F106DeltaDart
    replied
    Just got the video of my gun turret mod uploaded. The FPV footage turned out a bit washed out, but it looks better in person. Overall, I’m pretty happy with how it’s turned out so far.

    Leave a comment:


  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    Originally posted by sfcfury View Post

    Well I had that pushrod issue... and no matter how much I finagled the angle of the vertical shaft, the pushrod still rubbed. So I had a different build your kind of piece control arm piece, and while it wasn't bad and moved the pushrod over enough so that it no longer rubbed, I just didn't like the feel of it. The stock control arm wasn't bad, just the alignment/pushrod issue I was having. Having never seen the align (that style) one up close, it looks like the control arm part is fairly long... and I like the overall design of it.
    Okay, I understand that, let us know if it works out for you and any mods you have to do, parts are hard to get these days, so any other parts that will fit these Roban kits will help us all out.

    Leave a comment:


  • sfcfury
    replied
    Originally posted by DCORSAIR View Post

    So you had slop in the tail or you just ordered the Align one as precaution?

    I found the tail part really solid on both of my 500 , they fly really locked in. The Align one might be better built? I thought about doing the same just because, but decided to stay with the stock one for now.
    Well I had that pushrod issue... and no matter how much I finagled the angle of the vertical shaft, the pushrod still rubbed. So I had a different build your kind of piece control arm piece, and while it wasn't bad and moved the pushrod over enough so that it no longer rubbed, I just didn't like the feel of it. The stock control arm wasn't bad, just the alignment/pushrod issue I was having. Having never seen the align (that style) one up close, it looks like the control arm part is fairly long... and I like the overall design of it.

    Leave a comment:


  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    Originally posted by sfcfury View Post

    Yea I'm creeping along too... I decided to order the align 700 aluminum tail pitch assembly kit (and pitch slider) b/c I just don't want any slop in the tail... so I'm waiting for that to come in. Yea there's a alot of knowledge on these forums, and I pretty much read all the heli stuff, but especially any of the Roban 600/700/800 build pages... b/c the mechanics are all very similar.
    So you had slop in the tail or you just ordered the Align one as precaution?

    I found the tail part really solid on both of my 500 , they fly really locked in. The Align one might be better built? I thought about doing the same just because, but decided to stay with the stock one for now.

    Leave a comment:


  • sfcfury
    replied
    Originally posted by PawPaw View Post
    These guys know their stuff for sure. I sure wouldn’t be this far along on my Cobra without the help I’m getting here....and still a ways to go. Great news is this helicopter is very straightforward in mechanical assembly & a real looker out of the box. These guys take it to an extreme level and I can’t wait to see what’s next either.
    Yea I'm creeping along too... I decided to order the align 700 aluminum tail pitch assembly kit (and pitch slider) b/c I just don't want any slop in the tail... so I'm waiting for that to come in. Yea there's a alot of knowledge on these forums, and I pretty much read all the heli stuff, but especially any of the Roban 600/700/800 build pages... b/c the mechanics are all very similar.

    Leave a comment:


  • PawPaw
    replied
    These guys know their stuff for sure. I sure wouldn’t be this far along on my Cobra without the help I’m getting here....and still a ways to go. Great news is this helicopter is very straightforward in mechanical assembly & a real looker out of the box. These guys take it to an extreme level and I can’t wait to see what’s next either.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beta_Grumm
    replied
    This thread is awesome!
    I just found it and read all 9 pages today.
    I'm really looking forward to seeing these projects completed and in flight!

    Leave a comment:


  • sfcfury
    replied
    Yes I think that's a good place to start... I think mine is 11.5 to -4.5

    Leave a comment:


  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    Originally posted by PawPaw View Post
    Yes, now that throttle is doing the right thing it’s time to get pitch all dialed in. I have my max set at 11* right now with -4* as a min. Is that in the ballpark?
    Yep, that's exactly where I start at, not everyone will agree but I always start there then adjust to my style, I like the -4 or even -5, on my 5 blade head with the stock flat bottom blades, I had to go -6 to get my big 500 to come down, what a floater with the stock blades, your 2 blades should work great at your suggested settings I would think.

    Leave a comment:


  • PawPaw
    replied
    Yes, now that throttle is doing the right thing it’s time to get pitch all dialed in. I have my max set at 11* right now with -4* as a min. Is that in the ballpark?

    Leave a comment:


  • sfcfury
    replied
    Originally posted by PawPaw View Post
    Thanks sfcfury! Works like a charm with normal set to all 0’s.
    Good Deal!!

    Leave a comment:


  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    Sorry sir, I missed your question, just seen it actually, yes, get rid of the linear curve in gov. mode.

    ​​​​ I actually don't even bother with gov. mode on my helis, I run a flat curve and that's it, all in one mode on my old Futaba 7CH, I set point 1 at 0, then from point 2-5, I run a flat curve of 80%, I get away with this by not dropping into slow spool up because I run a steep negative pitch below 1/2 stick to drop my heli quickly in a scale decent rate and get that blade pop. I know gov. mode is the way to go, but I learned this way yrs ago and it works for me, no idle up, no switches to flip, nothing, just throttle hold if I need to of course for safety. I know it sounds strange but it works great if you know how to set it up right.

    Leave a comment:


  • PawPaw
    replied
    Thanks sfcfury! Works like a charm with normal set to all 0’s.

    Leave a comment:


  • PawPaw
    replied
    Ahhh, maybe that’s it...ESC doesn’t see a linear curve in governor mode. In that case I’ll try a 0-0-0-0-0 normal curve so it’ll arm, then switch to idle 1. This Futaba just won’t power up normally if it’s shut down with an active mix. It will allow you to program conflicting mixes without prompting you of the problem, but once you turn off the Tx then it goes into alarm mode when powering back up. Took me 30 min of Googling to find out how to get past that & into normal menu so I could fix the conflict. That’s why I figure normal throttle mode of some linear value must be set so I’ll try all “0’s”. Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • sfcfury
    replied
    I think this is strictly an ESC issue; I don't think you can use a linear curve at all when the CC ESC is in governor mode... it's either going to do the 30%, 70% or 100%. That's why i set my 30% curve as low as I could... now again, I'm truly not the expert, but from everything I was reading, that's the case. B/c I wanted to have one linear curve, then the two governor modes.

    Leave a comment:


  • PawPaw
    replied
    DCCORSAIR....You’re a Futaba guy, right? Need some help: I’m using a T10J in heli mode & a Demon 3X FBL with a Talon 120 ESC. I’ve got idle 1 set on switch B (up) at 30%, idle 2 on switch C (center)at 70%, & idle 3 on switch C (up) at 100%. All curves are off when switches are down, & normal linear throttle should work in this mode. Throttle stick position min/max has been set in the ESC. Problem is, I can’t get the ESC to hold a steady motor rpm in normal mode....at around 25%. As I increase stick to the point the motor begins to turn, & hold the stick at that point, the motor just continues to spool up. It’s like the ESC’s not seeing the normal 0-25-50-75-100 from the radio? As a side note, when I program the Talon for FIXED mode instead of GOVERNOR mode, the motor speed does follow Tx stick position as it should. Any ideas what I’ve set wrong or need to set in the radio? I’m much too old for pride so pull no punches! Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • sfcfury
    replied
    Originally posted by PawPaw View Post
    It should see the gun also, if your lens is anything like this Split 3 Nano Cam. This is a screenshot of a video I can’t seem to email from Windows laptop to this IPad (?) to post here....guess I need to just forum on the laptop instead, LOL. Lens is very wide angle.
    Looks good!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • PawPaw
    replied
    It should see the gun also, if your lens is anything like this Split 3 Nano Cam. This is a screenshot of a video I can’t seem to email from Windows laptop to this IPad (?) to post here....guess I need to just forum on the laptop instead, LOL. Lens is very wide angle.

    Leave a comment:


  • F106DeltaDart
    replied
    Originally posted by PawPaw View Post
    F106 that’s amazing work! Can’t wait to see it operate. The FLIR & gun will be sync’d?
    That is the plan! Hopefully, at least from certain angles, you should be able to see the gun barrel from the FLIR as well.

    Leave a comment:

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