2000mm Giant Scale B-24 - Olive Drab

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Roban B212 Civilian heli 600 size

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  • #41
    Where can I buy the lower main shaft bearing block? Needs to be for the 54mm spaced frame and contain a bearing with 17mm od and 9mm id for the tapered bottom end of the main shaft.

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    • #42
      Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View Post
      Where can I buy the lower main shaft bearing block? Needs to be for the 54mm spaced frame and contain a bearing with 17mm od and 9mm id for the tapered bottom end of the main shaft.
      The part you need is Align H60031. Unfortunately, its discontinued and difficult to find. Might try ebay.

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      • #43
        Can get it from RCAerodyne or Scaleflying.de. It’s the 3rd bearing block for the PhoenixTech 600.

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        • #44
          Neither Ebay, RCAerodyne or Scaleflying.de has it.

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          • #45
            Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View Post
            Neither Ebay, RCAerodyne or Scaleflying.de has it.
            Try giving a call to Big Sky Hobby in Eagan, MN They are a hobby shop with a ton of helicopter parts stocked. They may have the old Align part stocked somewhere, and they do ship.

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            • #46
              Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View Post
              Where can I buy the lower main shaft bearing block? Needs to be for the 54mm spaced frame and contain a bearing with 17mm od and 9mm id for the tapered bottom end of the main shaft.
              You can use an align 600 esp main bearing block with spacers to make it 54mm or use a Phoenixtech 600 esp main bearing block for the third bearing block. You will need to order phoenixtech bearing 6800ZZ which is available on motion Rc for $3.99

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              • #47
                Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post
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ID:	321658 Here are a few pictures of the Phoenixtech 600 esp clone mechanics. Something to note, the Phoenixtech comes with plastic umbrella gears in the tail rotor gear box as well as the torque tube gears box. The Roban B212 kit includes all new metal umbrella gears as well as a stack of shims so you can adjust the gear mesh appropriately. The gears seem of very nice quality. The main rotor head and components seem to be of nice quality and machining. Many of the parts in the kit are preassembled, however you need to go through everything and disassemble and add lubricant or thread locker as needed.
                I'm still sorting out my Phoenixtech/Roban pile of parts. Some are metal and some are plastic. My latest puzzle problem is as follows and shown in the picture... I replaced the tail (white plastic) drive with the black metal one as shown. However the existing "top" bearing will NOT fit over the 5.5mm top part of the shaft as shown. Is there a 9mm x 5mm bearing hidden somewhere in my $80 metal upgrade package or am I supposed to leave out the top bearing and have it supported by the tail drive bearing blocks?

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                • #48
                  Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View Post

                  I'm still sorting out my Phoenixtech/Roban pile of parts. Some are metal and some are plastic. My latest puzzle problem is as follows and shown in the picture... I replaced the tail (white plastic) drive with the black metal one as shown. However the existing "top" bearing will NOT fit over the 5.5mm top part of the shaft as shown. Is there a 9mm x 5mm bearing hidden somewhere in my $80 metal upgrade package or am I supposed to leave out the top bearing and have it supported by the tail drive bearing blocks?

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                  I ran into that as well. You don’t use the bearing there and rely on that lower small bearing in gear box halves and the two that are above what your pointing to in the bearing blocks.

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                  • #49
                    Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post

                    I ran into that as well. You don’t use the bearing there and rely on that lower small bearing in gear box halves and the two that are above what your pointing to in the bearing blocks.
                    That was my guess, and thanks for confirming it!

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                    • #50
                      Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post

                      I ran into that as well. You don’t use the bearing there and rely on that lower small bearing in gear box halves and the two that are above what your pointing to in the bearing blocks.
                      Have you run up your mechanics yet? If so, how did it go? Also spoke with a friend the other day and I learned that any tail drive shafts that are not pinned or fastened with set screws need to be drilled and pinned since the glue holding the aluminum "square" drive will come loose. From what I see the short upper drive shaft of the UH1 is not pinned.

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                      • #51
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                        Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View Post

                        Have you run up your mechanics yet? If so, how did it go? Also spoke with a friend the other day and I learned that any tail drive shafts that are not pinned or fastened with set screws need to be drilled and pinned since the glue holding the aluminum "square" drive will come loose. From what I see the short upper drive shaft of the UH1 is not pinned.
                        I have not drilled or pinned mine. But I will certainly look into it. So! Quick story I will give you. I am almost complete with my build and am going to post video links and a ton of photos but let me just give you the quick rundown on my experience. So I built the fuse and mechanics. A few little quirks here in there which as you run into just message me and I will fill you in how to deal with them. Take your time and shims the bevel gears nice. Also really pay attention to that shaft in those bearing blocks you pointed out above. I didn’t realize that one of the blocks was slightly narrower than the other and when tighten together in frame sides it was putting stress on that shaft. I didn’t realize it but the mechanics were squealing loud. My first Roban I kind of just thought that’s how they sounded. I flew the mechanics just hovering in my yard about 10 times. I then put them in fuse and all the scale jiblets including lighting kit. I went to field and flew it. It was nice for 5 minutes and then out of no where that shaft snapped and I had no tail rotor. I put it down best I could but fuse and main blades was a total loss. It was a $900 mistake. I ordered new fuse and have since fixed mechanics and main rotor. My fix was adding a paper shim between frame half and inside face of lower bearing block. Everything spins great now and no squeal sound. I flew the mechanics today for real at the field for two 9 minute flights. No issues and sounded great. I also recommend using a good grease on all metal bevel gears. I recommend. VRP honey grease. You can buy it at Amain website. It’s sticky and does not fling off. Greatly quiets the gears on the heli. I am flying my ESC governed at 1375rpm headspeed and it sounds good and flies great. Come next weekend it should be in the new fuse and flying. Any questions feel free to message me as I live and breathe this hobby.

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                        • #52
                          Sorry to hear about the test flight. Speaking of shims..... What keeps the brass/black steel pinion drive shaft from moving upwards from the horizontal tail bevel gear? I haven't installed the tail drive blocks yet but was thinking I could shim between the brass drive gear and lower gear block. Putting shims between the upper part of the bevel gear and plastic tail gear housing doesn't seem like a good idea.

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                          • #53
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                            Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View Post
                            Sorry to hear about the test flight. Speaking of shims..... What keeps the brass/black steel pinion drive shaft from moving upwards from the horizontal tail bevel gear? I haven't installed the tail drive blocks yet but was thinking I could shim between the brass drive gear and lower gear block. Putting shims between the upper part of the bevel gear and plastic tail gear housing doesn't seem like a good idea.
                            Good question. So that wider part of the shaft you had asked earlier if a bearing was supposed to go there, that makes contact with inner bearing race of lower bearing block bearing and prevents shaft from sliding up.

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                            • #54
                              Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post
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                              Good question. So that wider part of the shaft you had asked earlier if a bearing was supposed to go there, that makes contact with inner bearing race of lower bearing block bearing and prevents shaft from sliding up.
                              Good job explaining everything Gmack, you explain things better than I can.......

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                              • #55
                                Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post
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                                Good question. So that wider part of the shaft you had asked earlier if a bearing was supposed to go there, that makes contact with inner bearing race of lower bearing block bearing and prevents shaft from sliding up.

                                Yes you are correct,,,, "If a bearing was supposed to go there..." The key word is "Bearing" and a bearing needs to be there. I've played around with the entire side assembly a few hours now and from what I see the two bevel gears are going to disengage under load without the required bearing. Simply shimming against a piece of flexible plastic ain't going to cut it. The bevel gears need to mesh correctly and stay meshed over time. My guess is that you're going to lose the tail rotor in short order as soon as you spin it up under load as you experienced yourself. And we all know what happens when the tail rotor quits spinning.

                                Also the two supplied tail drive bearings are NOT fixed within the bearing blocks since the block holes are too large and the bearings fall out. Geezz.... It's one FU'd thing after another.

                                My best guess after playing around with this mess is that your bevel gears slid apart and jammed up. When the steel bevel gears lock up something is going to give since the energy in the main blades has got to go somewhere. In your case that energy snapped you tail drive shaft and who knows what else.

                                I purchased this combo (Phoenixtech/Roban) kit with the expectations that it would actually go together. So far it's been a hodgepodge of 54mm and 47 mm parts, plastic gears that have to be replaced with metal (at my expense) based on Ed telling me if I didn't the tail bevel gears would shear within seconds. The absolute need for a third lower main bearing block at my expense. And now a floating bevel tail shaft with little if any hope of holding up under any kind of normal stress.

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                                • #56
                                  Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View Post


                                  Yes you are correct,,,, "If a bearing was supposed to go there..." The key word is "Bearing" and a bearing needs to be there. I've played around with the entire side assembly a few hours now and from what I see the two bevel gears are going to disengage under load without the required bearing. Simply shimming against a piece of flexible plastic ain't going to cut it. The bevel gears need to mesh correctly and stay meshed over time. My guess is that you're going to lose the tail rotor in short order as soon as you spin it up under load as you experienced yourself. And we all know what happens when the tail rotor quits spinning.

                                  Also the two supplied tail drive bearings are NOT fixed within the bearing blocks since the block holes are too large and the bearings fall out. Geezz.... It's one FU'd thing after another.

                                  My best guess after playing around with this mess is that your bevel gears slid apart and jammed up. When the steel bevel gears lock up something is going to give since the energy in the main blades has got to go somewhere. In your case that energy snapped you tail drive shaft and who knows what else.

                                  I purchased this combo (Phoenixtech/Roban) kit with the expectations that it would actually go together. So far it's been a hodgepodge of 54mm and 47 mm parts, plastic gears that have to be replaced with metal (at my expense) based on Ed telling me if I didn't the tail bevel gears would shear within seconds. The absolute need for a third lower main bearing block at my expense. And now a floating bevel tail shaft with little if any hope of holding up under any kind of normal stress.
                                  Interesting that your drop shaft for your tail gear drive moves up and down. Mine does not have any play up and down. The bearing blocks you will need to pick up a small tube of bearing/sleeve retaining compound. It comes in a little bottle like loctite. Apply a super small amount on the outer race of bearing and press bearings all the way in and let them sit over night. They will not come out now. Also when you slide them into bearing blocks after applying make sure that none of the compound gets on the inside of the bearing. The bearing blocks should have the bearings facing one another when installed. The top one with open bearing facing down, and bottom bearing block bearing with the open bearing facing up. I hear you on the spacer issue between the 47mm and 54mm stuff. I too used the Phoenixtech kit. I had to contact Ed and get a whole second spacer kit for the bearing blocks as mine only came with half of what I needed. Interesting that your kit came with plastic/nylon gears? You ordered a B212 or a UH1N?

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                                  • #57
                                    Originally posted by DCORSAIR View Post

                                    Good job explaining everything Gmack, you explain things better than I can.......
                                    Thanks man! It’s been quite an experience building this kit but have it set up nice now!

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                                    • #58
                                      Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post

                                      Interesting that your drop shaft for your tail gear drive moves up and down. Mine does not have any play up and down. The bearing blocks you will need to pick up a small tube of bearing/sleeve retaining compound. It comes in a little bottle like loctite. Apply a super small amount on the outer race of bearing and press bearings all the way in and let them sit over night. They will not come out now. Also when you slide them into bearing blocks after applying make sure that none of the compound gets on the inside of the bearing. The bearing blocks should have the bearings facing one another when installed. The top one with open bearing facing down, and bottom bearing block bearing with the open bearing facing up. I hear you on the spacer issue between the 47mm and 54mm stuff. I too used the Phoenixtech kit. I had to contact Ed and get a whole second spacer kit for the bearing blocks as mine only came with half of what I needed. Interesting that your kit came with plastic/nylon gears? You ordered a B212 or a UH1N?
                                      This Roban UH-1N Iroquois 600 Size Helicopter/Phoenixtech combo that I purchased has been nothing but a nightmare since I tried to assemble it 4 months or so ago... Everytime I sit down with it I find ANOTHER totally f u'd problem. Sorry, but after tonight and other nights I've simply had ENOUGH!!!!! I've bought a $hit load of stuff from MRC and expect the stuff I buy to have a fighting chance of being assembled and flown. This mess of a combo was totally f u'd up in 2019 when they shipped it to me and it's still totally f u'd up in 2021 when I started to build it. I've put in a RMA request to MRC and have asked them to do what's right. Simply saying "We'll you should have built it in 2019" doesn't excuse the mess they sent me in 2019. Ed knows EXACTLY what I'm talking about.

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                                      • #59
                                        Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post

                                        Interesting that your drop shaft for your tail gear drive moves up and down. Mine does not have any play up and down. The bearing blocks you will need to pick up a small tube of bearing/sleeve retaining compound. It comes in a little bottle like loctite. Apply a super small amount on the outer race of bearing and press bearings all the way in and let them sit over night. They will not come out now. Also when you slide them into bearing blocks after applying make sure that none of the compound gets on the inside of the bearing. The bearing blocks should have the bearings facing one another when installed. The top one with open bearing facing down, and bottom bearing block bearing with the open bearing facing up. I hear you on the spacer issue between the 47mm and 54mm stuff. I too used the Phoenixtech kit. I had to contact Ed and get a whole second spacer kit for the bearing blocks as mine only came with half of what I needed. Interesting that your kit came with plastic/nylon gears? You ordered a B212 or a UH1N?
                                        As far as the tail drive bearing blocks are concerned.... The bearing blocks should have been machined for a press fit..... OR there needs to be a removeable collar that holds the bearing in place... Simply throwing it at the buyer and expecting them to glue the bearing in place is nuts.

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                                        • #60
                                          Here’s a video of my B212 in flight. https://youtu.be/MsOSAVZFc5U

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