Where can I buy the lower main shaft bearing block? Needs to be for the 54mm spaced frame and contain a bearing with 17mm od and 9mm id for the tapered bottom end of the main shaft.
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Roban B212 Civilian heli 600 size
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Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View PostWhere can I buy the lower main shaft bearing block? Needs to be for the 54mm spaced frame and contain a bearing with 17mm od and 9mm id for the tapered bottom end of the main shaft.
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Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View PostWhere can I buy the lower main shaft bearing block? Needs to be for the 54mm spaced frame and contain a bearing with 17mm od and 9mm id for the tapered bottom end of the main shaft.
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Originally posted by Gmack908 View PostHere are a few pictures of the Phoenixtech 600 esp clone mechanics. Something to note, the Phoenixtech comes with plastic umbrella gears in the tail rotor gear box as well as the torque tube gears box. The Roban B212 kit includes all new metal umbrella gears as well as a stack of shims so you can adjust the gear mesh appropriately. The gears seem of very nice quality. The main rotor head and components seem to be of nice quality and machining. Many of the parts in the kit are preassembled, however you need to go through everything and disassemble and add lubricant or thread locker as needed.
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Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View Post
I'm still sorting out my Phoenixtech/Roban pile of parts. Some are metal and some are plastic. My latest puzzle problem is as follows and shown in the picture... I replaced the tail (white plastic) drive with the black metal one as shown. However the existing "top" bearing will NOT fit over the 5.5mm top part of the shaft as shown. Is there a 9mm x 5mm bearing hidden somewhere in my $80 metal upgrade package or am I supposed to leave out the top bearing and have it supported by the tail drive bearing blocks?
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Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post
I ran into that as well. You don’t use the bearing there and rely on that lower small bearing in gear box halves and the two that are above what your pointing to in the bearing blocks.
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Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View Post
Have you run up your mechanics yet? If so, how did it go? Also spoke with a friend the other day and I learned that any tail drive shafts that are not pinned or fastened with set screws need to be drilled and pinned since the glue holding the aluminum "square" drive will come loose. From what I see the short upper drive shaft of the UH1 is not pinned.
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Sorry to hear about the test flight. Speaking of shims..... What keeps the brass/black steel pinion drive shaft from moving upwards from the horizontal tail bevel gear? I haven't installed the tail drive blocks yet but was thinking I could shim between the brass drive gear and lower gear block. Putting shims between the upper part of the bevel gear and plastic tail gear housing doesn't seem like a good idea.
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Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View PostSorry to hear about the test flight. Speaking of shims..... What keeps the brass/black steel pinion drive shaft from moving upwards from the horizontal tail bevel gear? I haven't installed the tail drive blocks yet but was thinking I could shim between the brass drive gear and lower gear block. Putting shims between the upper part of the bevel gear and plastic tail gear housing doesn't seem like a good idea.
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Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post
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Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post
Yes you are correct,,,, "If a bearing was supposed to go there..." The key word is "Bearing" and a bearing needs to be there. I've played around with the entire side assembly a few hours now and from what I see the two bevel gears are going to disengage under load without the required bearing. Simply shimming against a piece of flexible plastic ain't going to cut it. The bevel gears need to mesh correctly and stay meshed over time. My guess is that you're going to lose the tail rotor in short order as soon as you spin it up under load as you experienced yourself. And we all know what happens when the tail rotor quits spinning.
Also the two supplied tail drive bearings are NOT fixed within the bearing blocks since the block holes are too large and the bearings fall out. Geezz.... It's one FU'd thing after another.
My best guess after playing around with this mess is that your bevel gears slid apart and jammed up. When the steel bevel gears lock up something is going to give since the energy in the main blades has got to go somewhere. In your case that energy snapped you tail drive shaft and who knows what else.
I purchased this combo (Phoenixtech/Roban) kit with the expectations that it would actually go together. So far it's been a hodgepodge of 54mm and 47 mm parts, plastic gears that have to be replaced with metal (at my expense) based on Ed telling me if I didn't the tail bevel gears would shear within seconds. The absolute need for a third lower main bearing block at my expense. And now a floating bevel tail shaft with little if any hope of holding up under any kind of normal stress.
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Originally posted by flyingmyAoff View Post
Yes you are correct,,,, "If a bearing was supposed to go there..." The key word is "Bearing" and a bearing needs to be there. I've played around with the entire side assembly a few hours now and from what I see the two bevel gears are going to disengage under load without the required bearing. Simply shimming against a piece of flexible plastic ain't going to cut it. The bevel gears need to mesh correctly and stay meshed over time. My guess is that you're going to lose the tail rotor in short order as soon as you spin it up under load as you experienced yourself. And we all know what happens when the tail rotor quits spinning.
Also the two supplied tail drive bearings are NOT fixed within the bearing blocks since the block holes are too large and the bearings fall out. Geezz.... It's one FU'd thing after another.
My best guess after playing around with this mess is that your bevel gears slid apart and jammed up. When the steel bevel gears lock up something is going to give since the energy in the main blades has got to go somewhere. In your case that energy snapped you tail drive shaft and who knows what else.
I purchased this combo (Phoenixtech/Roban) kit with the expectations that it would actually go together. So far it's been a hodgepodge of 54mm and 47 mm parts, plastic gears that have to be replaced with metal (at my expense) based on Ed telling me if I didn't the tail bevel gears would shear within seconds. The absolute need for a third lower main bearing block at my expense. And now a floating bevel tail shaft with little if any hope of holding up under any kind of normal stress.
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Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post
Interesting that your drop shaft for your tail gear drive moves up and down. Mine does not have any play up and down. The bearing blocks you will need to pick up a small tube of bearing/sleeve retaining compound. It comes in a little bottle like loctite. Apply a super small amount on the outer race of bearing and press bearings all the way in and let them sit over night. They will not come out now. Also when you slide them into bearing blocks after applying make sure that none of the compound gets on the inside of the bearing. The bearing blocks should have the bearings facing one another when installed. The top one with open bearing facing down, and bottom bearing block bearing with the open bearing facing up. I hear you on the spacer issue between the 47mm and 54mm stuff. I too used the Phoenixtech kit. I had to contact Ed and get a whole second spacer kit for the bearing blocks as mine only came with half of what I needed. Interesting that your kit came with plastic/nylon gears? You ordered a B212 or a UH1N?
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Originally posted by Gmack908 View Post
Interesting that your drop shaft for your tail gear drive moves up and down. Mine does not have any play up and down. The bearing blocks you will need to pick up a small tube of bearing/sleeve retaining compound. It comes in a little bottle like loctite. Apply a super small amount on the outer race of bearing and press bearings all the way in and let them sit over night. They will not come out now. Also when you slide them into bearing blocks after applying make sure that none of the compound gets on the inside of the bearing. The bearing blocks should have the bearings facing one another when installed. The top one with open bearing facing down, and bottom bearing block bearing with the open bearing facing up. I hear you on the spacer issue between the 47mm and 54mm stuff. I too used the Phoenixtech kit. I had to contact Ed and get a whole second spacer kit for the bearing blocks as mine only came with half of what I needed. Interesting that your kit came with plastic/nylon gears? You ordered a B212 or a UH1N?
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