3d Printed Part Sets - Freewing F-4D Phantom II

[Flash Jorden]

Here is the final result of my 1st 3dPUP print minus the ladders. Total weight is 240 grams. I'm still trying to get the print/printer dialed in. This was with silver/aluminum colored filament.
Total print time was 21 hours, 25 minutes. Mostly because I used a lot of supports.

[RCjetdude]

Do you have 3d modeling experience? you did a nice job with those.

This was my first time modeling a piece to print. Don't be too impressed... the detail on the outside of the nozzle is sheet styrene that I added. I just designed the basic shape but it did fit like I wanted it to.

[TMoyer]

I will definitely be purchasing these when I get my F4. It would be great to also see some of this stuff for my F14 as well!

[Flash Jorden]

They specifically ask you not to monetize the files in any way

Thanks. Reading is fundamental. Somehow I missed that line when I read the post the first time. I'll blame it on my excitement.

[buffetbob]

I'm all for it! Especially for the A-4 and A-10 models. Bob

[bbaumer]

Partially 3D printed of my own design. Making a 'J' model Jolly Roger so I need the longer style nozzles.

Do you have 3d modeling experience? you did a nice job with those.

[bbaumer]

Pretty neat, and a huge upgrade from stock

[RCjetdude]

Partially 3D printed of my own design. Making a 'J' model Jolly Roger so I need the longer style nozzles.

[bbaumer]

What printer are you using that has 20um resolution? My printer claims 20um minimum layer height, but if I choose the "high detail" preset it defaults to 50um. If I manually change only the layer height to 20um, it prints much worse....looks like it is melting what it already printed, and just making a mess. Maybe I have to change many other things to avoid this. I tried messing with some of the other parameters (fan, etc. ) but I never found anything that prints better than the "high detail" default settings with 50um layer height.

I have a Cel Robox

Quick question.
What is MRC's stance/thoughts on guys printing these parts for a fee for others without printers? Not trying to start a flame war, just wondering.

They specifically ask you not to monetize the files in any way

[bbaumer]

Looks like you printed without supports, and it turned out well. I added lots of supports (missed adding some). We'll see how it goes.

I printed in what my software calls spiral mode, which kept the print times down ( about a third of what a normal print was going to run.)

[Flash Jorden]

Quick question.
What is MRC's stance/thoughts on guys printing these parts for a fee for others without printers? Not trying to start a flame war, just wondering.

[Flash Jorden]

I had a slight problem at the end printing the "cap" but nothing to split hairs over, very pleased overall

Looks like you printed without supports, and it turned out well. I added lots of supports (missed adding some). We'll see how it goes.

[Flash Jorden]

Very cool! Would love to see someone do a time lapse of some of these parts being created... :Cool:

I wish I had remembered to start one, but I didn't I'm still printing the parts, so I can capture some.

[Gringotuerto]

And so it begins, items of note 4:32 hour print time for a single nozzle at a 20 micron resolution. 12 grams of weight, which I suspect is significantly heavier than the stock nozzle. I did run this STL through Microsofts 3D Builder, which I always do anyway, as my printer has a better success rate when I do. It also allowed me to settle the part to the bed, as the spacer portion is angled somewhat and not settled flat in the original STLs

We'll see how this goes!

What printer are you using that has 20um resolution? My printer claims 20um minimum layer height, but if I choose the "high detail" preset it defaults to 50um. If I manually change only the layer height to 20um, it prints much worse....looks like it is melting what it already printed, and just making a mess. Maybe I have to change many other things to avoid this. I tried messing with some of the other parameters (fan, etc. ) but I never found anything that prints better than the "high detail" default settings with 50um layer height.

[James]

I had a slight problem at the end printing the "cap" but nothing to split hairs over, very pleased overall

Looks great. Adds that something extra not too many people will have.

[bbaumer]

I had a slight problem at the end printing the "cap" but nothing to split hairs over, very pleased overall

[bbaumer]

And so it begins, items of note 4:32 hour print time for a single nozzle at a 20 micron resolution. 12 grams of weight, which I suspect is significantly heavier than the stock nozzle. I did run this STL through Microsofts 3D Builder, which I always do anyway, as my printer has a better success rate when I do. It also allowed me to settle the part to the bed, as the spacer portion is angled somewhat and not settled flat in the original STLs

We'll see how this goes!

[crxmanpat]

I've got a friend with a 3D printer and I will see if he can do these for me.

[Gringotuerto]

Opinions on 3D parts in general:
1. It is a GREAT idea to offer STL files for scale details
2. It is good business to separate this from the airframe. Some people want the details, some people don’t, and it would substantially increase cost for everybody to provide molded plastic parts with the airframe.
3. There are three ways people get these:
a. Buy a printer
b. Beg a set off somebody who has a printer.
c. Buy the printed parts.
I see a lot of (a) and (b) going on. Not sure how many people resort to (c). I would highly recommend buying a 3D printer to anyone considering it. You don’t have to buy many parts before you come out ahead just buying a printer. And it is super cool to be able to download and print anything. I use it for much more than just these files from MotionRC. There are many sources of useful pieces, and the fact that you can scale arbitrarily is a huge advantage. How many hours have you spent on the internet searching for some scale detail at just the right size?

Also, you can paint and customize however you want, or print just a subset, etc. It gives you a wide range of options of how much time you spend messing around with your foamie.

Anyway, thanks to MotionRC for this innovation. Once you have a printer, this method adds a lot to your model, at only a few cents cost.

[Elbee]

Could there be 'Splitters and Intakes' coming as well...hmmm...maybe...pretty please. I'll sweep up around the Motion RC office for free for a month.