Good job Pat, looks great! Is your roll of filament hanging off the side of the mount there?
Print a couple of small items first, that will get you into the groove and familiarize yourself with how to arrange the parts on the build plate, move them around and play with supports and stuff. The way the item is oriented can play a really big part in how long it takes to print, and how it turns out.
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3d Printed Part Sets - Freewing F-4D Phantom II
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OK, the Prusa is all together, probably about 10 solid hours of build time over the past 3 nights. And although it was somewhat time consuming to assemble, it went together extremely well without issue. The online Prusa build guide (which is interactive by the way, allowing members to post comments at each step) was extremely helpful. All that's left is to calibrate it, then start printing! I've already downloaded several STL files (thanks apmech1 and DirtyDee!) and can't wait to get started!1 Photo
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Thanks, that is correct. I forgot to mention cutting the existing plastic exterior from the foam interior first --- I did it with a razor blade. Fit is fine, now I have to paint them before attaching --- not my best skill !
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In the video I have seen of them getting installed, the existing nozzles are slit front to back and peeled off. Then the new ones are glued on in their place with the notch lining up accordingly.
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Just received my 3D exhaust nozzles from Motion. They look like they just slide over the existing foam nozzles as they have a flange at the rear --- correct ?
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I have a MkIII that I received 3 months ago. I purchased the kit.... and it went together quite easily. The only difficulty I had was fitting all the wiring into the tiny box that they go in, all I could think of was "why didn't they make the box a bit larger". But the packing and instructions were absolutely immaculate (really well done) and I just followed the manual, step by step, and finished it in about 4-6 hours (I did it over two evenings). The machine consists of some high quality metal frame parts and motors, and all of the fittings are made of 3D printed plastic! They also included some extra hardware in case a screw falls on the floor and into a black hole. I have at least one of those in my workshop!
Prusa has some on-line videos on YouTube that walk through the kit construction, and also the calibration. The calibration was easy, and once that is done you can print immediately. I am using the SD card because I couldn't put the machine right next to my PC. It works perfectly and I've been having a lot of fun trying different things out. For example I printed two whistles for the Phantom. Now as far as using the printer, there is definitely a learning curve that you have to experience, as far as understanding the different settings and how to use them correctly (for example understanding that the orientation of the part on the build plate can greatly affect how it turns out.) Its also important to understand how to set the parameters to reduce the weight of the parts (detail, infill %, etc). I am still learning. But the machine works really well.
I have successfully printed a number of cool things, including the centerline tank that Apmech1 designed. (picture below)
And I have gone through an entire roll of filament!
One positive about purchasing the kit (instead of a ready-to-use unit) is that since I put the machine together from parts, I know exactly how it works. And how to replace parts on it if I need to.
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Sweet! Let me know what you think when you get it put together. I've been eyeballing the Mk3 for a few months now, but haven't yet convinced myself to pull the trigger yet.Originally posted by crxmanpat View PostWoo hoo! Let the printing begin!
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Just received the 3D parts from MRC... They are very nice!!!! Awesome Pat!!!
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More F-4 #DPup parts arrived last night, they are starting to ship out today if you've been waiting
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Here's a hanger I designed to use with my sparrow prints since I didn't incorporate the MotionRC Hanger cleats, simple, but seems effective, the hole is designed to accept a common hex drive collared servo screw, but many could be used. This also lets you spread the anchor points out as far as you'd like, and use as many as necessary for larger prints
Attached Files1 Photo
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Check if Simplify3D has some feature similar to "detect thin wall sections". If your nozzle is 0.4mm sometimes the program might not print sections less than 0.8mm as the printer is expecting to draw a full perimeter instead of a single pass.Originally posted by RCjetdude View PostI am having trouble finding a "resolution" setting in Simplify 3D... might be called something else. I wouldn't mind thicker fins myself. Technically they maybe should be thicker since they are really two fins coming together anyway?
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Mk82 with 1mm thick finsAttached Files
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I am having trouble finding a "resolution" setting in Simplify 3D... might be called something else. I wouldn't mind thicker fins myself. Technically they maybe should be thicker since they are really two fins coming together anyway?
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I printed them spiral at .06mm resolution. If that doesn't work let me know and I will redesign the aft section with thicker fins.
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I had that happen to me too - it's the resolution. Choose the finest resolution first and then the slicer will see it and the fins will appear like magic when you generate the preview. Gotta love these 3D printers.Originally posted by RCjetdude View PostWhen you get a chance can you check out the fin section of the MK-82's you did? When I see it in my print preview the fins are missing so I am not sure about trying to print it.
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