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Official Freewing MiG-29 Fulcrum Twin 80mm Thread
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All the FW 80's have the same form factor but some may have shorted or longer motor wires. If swapping out both fans and the ESCs for the V2 I'm 100% sure it will work.
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I think that's their "legal" brain talking. Like in automobiles, ANY modification to a car, even something as simple as changing wheels or non-OEM air filter "could" void warranty if something goes wrong with the car, even parts not related to wheels or air filter. It's up to the consumer to take and accept that risk/possibility.
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I’m not sure what to believe. looking at the reviews of the edf units on their site. multiple people are raving about the improvements on their jets
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Who at motion said no and did they say why.
Originally posted by baseballrn64 View PostHello. has anyone here actually placed. the new 80mm 12 blade edf units in the v1. Some have said it is the same size unit with the same esc’s are the same amperage but the motion rc people said it wouldn’t work. Just curious
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Hello. has anyone here actually placed. the new 80mm 12 blade edf units in the v1. Some have said it is the same size unit with the same esc’s are the same amperage but the motion rc people said it wouldn’t work. Just curious
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A good analogy would be the A-10 - V1 vs V2. My V2 with the latest 12-bl inrunner is immensely more powerful than my old V1.Originally posted by Alphonso View Post
A good increase in thrust
I'm looking forward to when the MiG comes back into stock. Maybe it'll be a V2.1 and have quick attach wings.
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I have the vectored thrust and my 5900mah packs weigh 750g. I have to use front and rear trays to be 25mm aft of the CG marks.Originally posted by baseballrn64 View PostThanks for the reply. So if i understand you if i use 6000 mid rear. if i went to 5000ish i could use the front and rear? i’m relatively new to edf and electrics coming from large scale gassers. Does the weight of the extra mAh basically zero out extra flight time of the smaller packs. Thanks
in answer to the second question, the plane can handle a wide range of lipo sizes and the extra mah will give longer flights. If you went large enough to dramatically notice the weight increase, the packs would not fit in the model. The reason for this is heavy packs would mean having to use the mid lipo tray and then they become difficult to actually mount without removing lots of canopy foam.
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Hello all. i was just wondering if anyone has owned and or flew both the V1 and V2 versions with the different motors and blades. i was wondering the performance difference. Thank You
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Thanks for the reply. So if i understand you if i use 6000 mid rear. if i went to 5000ish i could use the front and rear? i’m relatively new to edf and electrics coming from large scale gassers. Does the weight of the extra mAh basically zero out extra flight time of the smaller packs. Thanks
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Hello. I was just wondering what the preferred battery layout is. i’ve seen these two posted obviously keeping CG in mind is there a preferred positions for the batteries. ill be using 6s 6000 packs. The forward and rear would work best for me just wondering what people are doing with there’s with best results for scale and high speed pass flying.
Thank you
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New EDF has same dimensions as the old 9-bl, so yes. ESCs on old and new are 100A, so again, yes.Originally posted by baseballrn64 View PostHello. new to this site. I’m sure this has probably already been answered. I was wondering i have a v1 freewing Mig with the 9 blade edf (original version). just wondering can i just drop in the new freewing 12 blade edf ( the ones that are currently in v2) will the original esc’s be compatable with these Thanks in advance
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Hello. new to this site. I’m sure this has probably already been answered. I was wondering i have a v1 freewing Mig with the 9 blade edf (original version). just wondering can i just drop in the new freewing 12 blade edf ( the ones that are currently in v2) will the original esc’s be compatable with these Thanks in advance
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Thank you for your great tips, much appreciated.Originally posted by Alphonso View Post
I have sometimes had difficulty getting a scanned match, particularly with some greys. It's either too blue or too yellow etc. The Euro was a pain to copy .
What I do in that situation is take a bit of the model to the store and compare it to the card swatches they have. Large stores over here that do Dulux have hundreds of colours, shades and hues to select. Quite often I find one that is a shade darker and one a shade too light but not exact. So I simply buy a sample of both and mix em together until it's correct. That's how I matched the 90mm Eurofighter grey.
I spent days trying to match the grey of a friends Yellow F15 turbine after repairing it for him. Had it scanned, tried mixing myself but a slight change in ambient light altered it, it was either too red, blue or yellow after getting it looking right. I then realised the weathering was polarising it, so added weathering and it was spot on.
Scanning only works to a degree, the finish can diffract the light you see if the sheen or matt is not the same.
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I have sometimes had difficulty getting a scanned match, particularly with some greys. It's either too blue or too yellow etc. The Euro was a pain to copy .Originally posted by SkyZee View Post
Hi Guys, I realise this is an old thread. I'm trying to colour match the base grey for this as well, and the paint shop has struggled with it after 3 attempts. Does anybody have any paint / mix formulas for it? I'm in Australia, so if anyone has done this with local Australian paint manufacturers (e.g. Dulux, Taubmans) that would be very helpful and appreciated.
What I do in that situation is take a bit of the model to the store and compare it to the card swatches they have. Large stores over here that do Dulux have hundreds of colours, shades and hues to select. Quite often I find one that is a shade darker and one a shade too light but not exact. So I simply buy a sample of both and mix em together until it's correct. That's how I matched the 90mm Eurofighter grey.
I spent days trying to match the grey of a friends Yellow F15 turbine after repairing it for him. Had it scanned, tried mixing myself but a slight change in ambient light altered it, it was either too red, blue or yellow after getting it looking right. I then realised the weathering was polarising it, so added weathering and it was spot on.
Scanning only works to a degree, the finish can diffract the light you see if the sheen or matt is not the same.
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Hi Guys, I realise this is an old thread. I'm trying to colour match the base grey for this as well, and the paint shop has struggled with it after 3 attempts. Does anybody have any paint / mix formulas for it? I'm in Australia, so if anyone has done this with local Australian paint manufacturers (e.g. Dulux, Taubmans) that would be very helpful and appreciated.Originally posted by viper1gj View PostDoes anyone have a photo of the Home Depot touch up paint code for the stock Mig-29 grey color?
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Just getting the MiG set up with a10 ch spectrum receiver. Only getting power out of the right side EDF. I have the UBEC plugged into the receiver but the other power lead has the 2 wire, red lead (pic attached)and I’m wondering IFB that needs to be plugged in somewhere. Sorry if this is a noob question but it’s my first twin jet
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