Official Freewing MiG-29 Fulcrum Twin 80mm Thread

[flyjets01@gmail.com]

Hi Guy's

I picked up a used Mig 29 that has never been flown it has the 9 Blade motors. The hardware appears to be the upgraded linkages and the Stabs have the red metal arms.

Batteries

I'm going thru it now and have ordered SMC HV3 22.8v/6s

https://www.smc-racing.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=630

Motors

I was wondering has tried these motors and it the thrust improvements are good for Grass?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BXKGJW91/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_3?smid=A2QPD486SF4I0&psc=1

Speed Controllers with reverse thrust any idea's ?

Last I'll replace the Stock Stab Servo's any idea's ?

Thanks in advance
Ian

[flyjets01@gmail.com]

Thanks Evan fixed the error. I saw you had a Mig 29 while back.

I'll try the LHIV ion the old Hobbyking ESC see the Amp draw and thrust output.

[Evan D]

Sounds like a Mig29 to me.

I'm not a fan of SMC but am a fan of HV batteries and I would use lighter batteries.

The FreeWing 2150 fan would be my recommendation.

You have updated servos if they have the red arms.

[Evan D]

I don't think so. I think the person(s) at Motion that creates and updates pages just doesn't take the time to proof read. Things like different motor sizes on the same page should be real obvious. Or creating a new page and using a different model as a starting point and it has information that is just wrong for the new model. A new V2 of a model is released but the link to the manual is the V1 version. As I said cut and paste issue.

Marketing and engineering not talking to each other?

[kallend]

As Motion tends to cut and paste information it’s not surprising.

Marketing and engineering not talking to each other?

[Evan D]

As Motion tends to cut and paste information it’s not surprising.

[kallend]

Interesting that this warning now appears on Motion's site for the Mig, despite the fact that it uses a separate UBEC.


Power System and Electronics Compatibility:


This model is designed to operate using the included ESC and its integrated BEC, which is specifically matched to the onboard electronics. To ensure reliable performance and prevent damage, always power the aircraft's receiver and electronics through the installed ESC using the main flight battery. Do not use any power source other than the main flight battery to power the model, otherwise damage will occur to the electronics.

The receiver, servos, and other onboard electronics included with this model are rated for a maximum input voltage of 5.5V. When selecting your ESC and power system, verify that the BEC output supplied to the receiver and onboard electronics does not exceed 5.5V. Using a higher voltage will damage the aircraft's electronics.

[Airguardian]

I still think so myself... hardly an argument.


As far as I'm concerned, the Su-35 beats everything else scale (or not) EDF, not just the MiG-29!

[kallend]

Took me long enough...

I still think your SU-35 is better.

[Airguardian]

Took me long enough...

[Airguardian]

The extra power is very noticeable... tomorrow I'll put some more flights in! :D

[Hugh Wiedman]

Finally got to post the vids of the power upgrade with FMS fans... :)

Very Nice. I installed those early on and have never regretted it.

[Airguardian]

Finally got to post the vids of the power upgrade with FMS fans... :)

[Airguardian]

[Airguardian]

[Airguardian]

Time to show some more MiG-29 love...

[Hugh Wiedman]

Thanks very much for the tips Hugh! I'll try and get mine as scale as I can. I've been watching some of theRCGEEK's videos on prepping and painting EPO. He coated a recent aircraft in about 5 coats of Minwax Polycrylic prior to priming which I think will do what you're describing here.

It's a project for the spring/early summer when the temperatures here get a bit "warmer" and I can paint outside under cover, but I'll share some photos as the time comes!

Appreciate your advice!

Best,
Nick

Yes, miwax is the same as the Varathane Spar Urethane I use with 4-5 coats. The one I use is actually water based, but they make 2 kinds, one for interior and the other exterior. I use the exterior which has UV blockers so it won't "yellow" as the interior will after prolonged exposure to sun.

[nickwildman81]

Nick,

You don't really have to have an exact match of the Rusoleum paint, just keep in mind I used a high gloss spray enamel, so any color you like should work. I'm sure you can find a yellow that matches fairly nicely, and if you want to do this scheme, just about any blue you like should work. You most likely notice that the blue of the real aircraft is darker than mine. I just happened to like that lighter blue when I found it so used it, as everyone who knows me knows I'm about as far away from being a "scale" modeler as you can get (see my latest F22 fantasy "Red Lion" below). Couple of points to keep in mind. I highly suggest you overspray the entire aircraft with a white primer that is of the same "type" paint as your final color. This gives a good adhesive base on the foam and allows the final paint color to stay true.

One other point, and this is the wildcard. They use some sort of "releasing agent" coating in the foam presses that allows the finished foam piece to come out cleanly and easily, then paint over that. Occasionally, even after using my enamel primer, which goes on nicely, there is still some of this "stuff" that doesn't affect the primer, but makes the final colored coat crinkle like an old grandma!! Not always, but sometimes in blotches anywhere on the aircraft. That's when you scream "OH F.... ME"!! I've found that if I do a coat of the clear Spar Urethane over the factory paint, it "seals" it out from bubbling up from the base paint. I've done dozens of full repaints and it has only happened a few times, always with the final paint sprayed on and not the testor's enamel hand painted. If that happens, just let it dry completely, sand it smooth, put a coat of Urethane or something like that over it and repaint it. Just happened on my F22 but it was just the nose cone, so bad I just ordered a new one instead and painted that.

Mig after Priming:



The "Ultra Scale" F22:

Thanks very much for the tips Hugh! I'll try and get mine as scale as I can. I've been watching some of theRCGEEK's videos on prepping and painting EPO. He coated a recent aircraft in about 5 coats of Minwax Polycrylic prior to priming which I think will do what you're describing here.

It's a project for the spring/early summer when the temperatures here get a bit "warmer" and I can paint outside under cover, but I'll share some photos as the time comes!

Appreciate your advice!

Best,
Nick

[freakbrother]

I believe it's fallout from that "Shall Not Be Named" spamapalooza. We had to adjust many spam parameters in the backend, and unfortunately these innocuous posts are flagged for some odd reason I am not sure of.

Sorry for the inconvenience folks, but sadly thanks to some jerks out there, it's the cost of doing business.

My account was cancelled in the fallout, and when it got restored my post count was reset to zero.

[Hugh Wiedman]

Amazing stuff. A quick google and we don't have the same names for the Rustoleum paint over here in the UK but I'll give what we do have a look, see if it's a match 👌

Nick,

You don't really have to have an exact match of the Rusoleum paint, just keep in mind I used a high gloss spray enamel, so any color you like should work. I'm sure you can find a yellow that matches fairly nicely, and if you want to do this scheme, just about any blue you like should work. You most likely notice that the blue of the real aircraft is darker than mine. I just happened to like that lighter blue when I found it so used it, as everyone who knows me knows I'm about as far away from being a "scale" modeler as you can get (see my latest F22 fantasy "Red Lion" below). Couple of points to keep in mind. I highly suggest you overspray the entire aircraft with a white primer that is of the same "type" paint as your final color. This gives a good adhesive base on the foam and allows the final paint color to stay true.

One other point, and this is the wildcard. They use some sort of "releasing agent" coating in the foam presses that allows the finished foam piece to come out cleanly and easily, then paint over that. Occasionally, even after using my enamel primer, which goes on nicely, there is still some of this "stuff" that doesn't affect the primer, but makes the final colored coat crinkle like an old grandma!! Not always, but sometimes in blotches anywhere on the aircraft. That's when you scream "OH F.... ME"!! I've found that if I do a coat of the clear Spar Urethane over the factory paint, it "seals" it out from bubbling up from the base paint. I've done dozens of full repaints and it has only happened a few times, always with the final paint sprayed on and not the testor's enamel hand painted. If that happens, just let it dry completely, sand it smooth, put a coat of Urethane or something like that over it and repaint it. Just happened on my F22 but it was just the nose cone, so bad I just ordered a new one instead and painted that.

Mig after Priming:



The "Ultra Scale" F22: