You’re balanced where I am and I have roll and pitch on canards… but I have TV on two of my Gripens and no TV on the third one. No gyro on any and I love how mine fly. Maybe move the balance up a bit and try again?
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Official Freewing JAS 39 Gripen 80mm EDF Jet
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After viewing this thread, it seems most move the CG back from 10mm - 25mm, I guess you all are advanced flyer or want to perform hi alpha. Just curious, does anyone or does this plane can fly normal level with the factory marking CG. I just want to take the bird up with CG factory, trim out for now.
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Factory CG sucks, and many of us have pushed CG past 30-40mm behind the marks. And in order to achieve that, one usually needs to add over 130g of tail ballast, there's no way you'd do that with just 3g. I bet there's something else going on with your setup, what else have you done to the jet? Are you using exponentials? Definitely remove the roll from the canards. It's worse than worthless, it will mess up the wing's aerodynamics in high alpha. Are you using a gyro? was it on? how's it set up? Is the thrust vectoring nozzle installed?
To me, it sounds like you had large throws with no expo and a bad trim. If the TV nozzle is installed, maybe the thrustline is off. Can't tell you much without giving us more info. A video of the maiden would be helpful.
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Originally posted by ArmorBolt View Post
You must have added at least 4 grams to the rear of the jet for CG 25mm behind the mark. Thanks.
"Kallend's Heavy Nozzle" for the Gripen can accommodate up to 60g of lead weights in addition to its own weight.
The Gripen needs weight in the tail to achieve an acceptable CG position. This nozzle has accommodation for up to 60g of small lead weights, in addition to weighing over 60 grams itself. Print wide-side down, with supports. You will need to peel off the plastic outer of the stock nozzle, and trim back the foam to leave a stub 13mm long to which you glue the new nozzle. I suggest taping the join on the inside to ensure smooth airflow,
I have a lighter one for the Gripen TV unit too.
Replaces the cheap looking foam overlay on the vectored thrust nozzle. The foam overlay is glued on with a tacky glue and with care can be pulled off intact. This is a direct replacement. Be aware that it weighs some 30g more than the foam overlay, so be sure to check the CG of the model. I used 3% infill, 3 bottom layers and a 0.8mm thick wall. If you want more weight at the back use more infill and thicker walls.
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First the book CG at Motion says 130mm but the marks on mine are at 122mm. This is not 122 from the canards but from the wing root. If you measured from the canard you are about 10mm aft of the 122 or 130. I am flying at 150mm from the wing root. 3g, are you really meaning 3g? 3g is almost nothing.
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This will be my first active canard plane. I watched the video by Motion on the Canard mixing. It makes sense. However, watching videos of this model and watching some airshow videos of this in High Alpha the canards appear to be deflecting opposite. Is there a need to make different mixes where the canards follow and one to make them opposite of the elevons.? I would only be using the canards in pitch.
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This is a model based on a real plane. There are significant differences such as airframe material (this is foam), power plant (electric) and flight control (this doesn't come with one). When you decide to install your radio you can make it as complicated or simple as you want. You can use a simple 7ch set up without a gyro or go 12+ channels with a flight controller and a lot of different modes. You can also program functions to replicate the real aircraft or choose to set it up in a more simplified way. I chose to not replicate the air flow typ mode and have canards doing pitch, roll and a higher throw air brakes, and TV's. I don't have a gyro or flight controller.
It'll be interesting to hear what you decide to do and how it works.
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Originally posted by Evan D View PostThis is a model based on a real plane. There are significant differences such as airframe material (this is foam), power plant (electric) and flight control (this doesn't come with one). When you decide to install your radio you can make it as complicated or simple as you want. You can use a simple 7ch set up without a gyro or go 12+ channels with a flight controller and a lot of different modes. You can also program functions to replicate the real aircraft or choose to set it up in a more simplified way. I chose to not replicate the air flow typ mode and have canards doing pitch, roll and a higher throw air brakes, and TV's. I don't have a gyro or flight controller.
It'll be interesting to hear what you decide to do and how it works.
What is the air flow mod and is it used only in High Alpha?
Thanks for your time !
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Originally posted by Evan D View PostI think maybe Jon (two brothers RC) or Jandro would be the only ones to answer that as I think they are the only ones I know that have done programming to have the canards control air glow over the wings. I think Jon is more active over on RCG.
the DX 18 is still a very good radio.
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Moved the light controller back from under wooden tray. Very crowded under there. Required adding about 6 inches of wire to the landing gear light. Also redid the very bland cannon. Liberties were taken!🤣 Maiden soon, going with 10mm behind the cg mark. Working my way back if I feel comfy! Lots of good info here!!2 Photos
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Originally posted by Icarus the 2nd View Post
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If you have access to a 3D printer, I have posted files for IRIS-T and Meteor missiles, along with underwing missile pylons, for the Gripen on
1:9 scale IRIS-T missile with lug to fit Freewing Gripen wingtip rail. The nose section has some breakaway parts that look like fins to support it upright while printing. These are not part of the missile - remove after printing. Will need supports. Underwing pylons at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4713773
These are a modified versions of the missile pylons by Bettsmums. These have their own mounting hardware. The lug and socket are the same as the Freewing standard. and should be printed separately with high infill for strength. The main body needs to be light - I used 10% infill. A socket is also placed under the wing so the rail can be removed. Depending on the accuracy of the printer, the lug and socket may need to be trimmed to make a good but not loose sliding fit. Be aware that there are small differences between the inner and outer pylons. They go immediately ahead of the bulges on the underside of the wing. Bettsmums' original is at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4708956
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