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Official Freewing B-2 Spirit Bomber 86" Twin 70mm EDF Jet

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  • viper1gj
    replied
    In case anybody in interested here are three photos of HD touch up paint from three different stores in three different states. All the numbers match from each one. The one on the left is the one they scanned and made for me.
    Attached Files

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  • viper1gj
    replied
    Minor repairs made to the left wing and right elevator. The screw tabs and carbon rod were broken off. I used the polyurethane glue with CA technique mentioned by Mshagg. The 8mm carbon tube was replaced from the shop scrap box. The leading edge corners were glued back on with foam glue. The right elevator was torn off but the plastic hinge pins were not broken so I just glued then back in with foam glue. The foam hinge seal was replace with Blend Derm tape on the bottom. After touch up paint I added an ASSAN AG63 heading gyro to the steering. I had it in the shop planned for a new project so I put it to use in the B-2 for now. It checked out dead straight on taxi tests in the yard. Waiting for winds to calm a little to give it another go.
    Attached Files

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  • viper1gj
    replied
    Here are some photos of the grass mods I made to my B-2 last week.

    Stinger 90 struts with 60mm wheels on the mains worked well. Stock 45mm wheels are still on the nose. This seemed to work well on my last take off attempt before the jet flipped. The jet now has a 4.5 degree positive pitch angle on the ground which should be good for take off.
    Attached Files

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  • Aros
    replied
    Oh good, thank you!

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  • xviper
    replied
    Aros .................................. Oooohhhh, I just remembered. I posted up a video about using my drag rudders as drag brakes. Go see post #888 and you can see what the rudders look like at full AIL input. Pause it if it goes by too fast.

    Leave a comment:


  • GliderGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by Aros View Post
    Replaced my broken servo arm on the port clam shell and hooked everything back up but I'm still off. How much deflection should there be when moving the RIGHT stick left and right (ailerons)? I won't dare maiden until I have these clams where they need to be on both sides. Thanks for any assistance!
    As I recall, I reduced the rudder servo travel to 70% in the TX. As others have noted, 45 mm wide or 50 mm wide is a don’t care. Mine is 50 mm (25 mm top and 25 mm bottom. It works fine.

    As Xviper said, bounce = FLOOR IT. I tried to save a bounced landing twice…..replaced the nose gear set-up twice. I think I have finally learned the lesson.

    The real trick is come in slow and touch down with minimal energy. She is, regardless, VERY easy to land. One just gets stupid on the controls once in a while.

    Hi Evan….I swear I looked at all the spare parts pages last night and did not find the bare servos listed. Hence my email to MRC support. That is sooooo weird. But THANKS!


    -GG

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by Aros View Post
    Excellent thanks xviper
    For you, anything, good buddy.

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  • Aros
    replied
    Excellent thanks xviper

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by Aros View Post
    Replaced my broken servo arm on the port clam shell and hooked everything back up but I'm still off. How much deflection should there be when moving the RIGHT stick left and right (ailerons)? I won't dare maiden until I have these clams where they need to be on both sides. Thanks for any assistance!
    I did the RC Air Marshall set up for the control surfaces and it was much easier and straight forward. Once done, I didn't really worry too much about the drag rudder response to AIL input. It just works. I had to go about 65% travel on the rudder channel. Air Marshall went with 70% and others went with 60%. I do however, recall that when going full AIL stick, the wing going UP has it's drag rudder almost fully closed. Flying it is easy. Taking off can be tricky if the plane starts to track to one side too quickly. My Assan steering gyro cures that. The most dangerous is landing with a bounce. If it bounces, FLOOR IT!
    I started with about 12mm on the inners based on my friends maiden. It doesn't matter what the outers are if you follow Air Marshalls way. Those will be just what they need to be. I had to DOWN trim ELE several clicks, ending up with what the book says (~8mm and 4mm).

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  • Aros
    replied
    Replaced my broken servo arm on the port clam shell and hooked everything back up but I'm still off. How much deflection should there be when moving the RIGHT stick left and right (ailerons)? I won't dare maiden until I have these clams where they need to be on both sides. Thanks for any assistance!

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by MeyerVW View Post
    Would it help to take off grass, if you started on a piece of card board first. Undo a box a lay it down. Get the aircraft rolling first then onto the grass?
    I guess you could try it but I have a feeling that won't be enough smooth distance to do anything. As soon as it comes off the box, those trucks hit the grass and it's like you hit the brakes. I remember the Petrincic brothers got theirs some weeks ago and they immediately did an unboxing. We've never seen a maiden flight of it. I'm thinking they couldn't get it off that narrow little rubber strip they use or they used that paved road and cartwheeled it on landing. Probably not video worthy.

    Leave a comment:


  • MeyerVW
    replied
    Would it help to take off grass, if you started on a piece of card board first. Undo a box a lay it down. Get the aircraft rolling first then onto the grass?

    Leave a comment:


  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Originally posted by crxmanpat View Post
    Successful grass ops are more about the ground underneath the grass than the grass itself. One guy flew off grass no problem in Georgia, but the ground underneath is hard packed red clay. Down here in Florida, even though our grass is bermuda cut short, it has soft sandy ground underneath. I couldn't get enough speed to rotate.
    Agree - Grass is difficult to desribe accurately for most ....the topside turf is indeed only half of the story for a runway as the ground itself is also a contributing factor of the field. Water saturation and turf or "Thatch" concetration also greatly affect how the wheels and weight can roll

    TwistedGrin

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  • Evan D
    replied
    GG, that info is on the B-2 parts page at Motion. Granted it's on the second page but it's been there...

    Leave a comment:


  • GliderGuy
    replied
    For your files…..

    Response from MRC Support / Retract servos bare

    SKU: ET8402 Freewing Electronic Nose Retract for 5.1mm Diameter Shafts - Type D (with strut pin included) X 1 required


    SKU: E840 Freewing Electronic Main Retract for 5.1mm Diameter Shafts - Type B (without strut pin) X 2 required

    -GG

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  • jasmith41
    replied
    Originally posted by kallend View Post

    A lot of their older models seem to be weak around the retract mounts (Su-35, F-14, F-104, Eurofighter) but recent models seem better in this regard.
    They actually starting using glue instead of waving the bottle of the areas... :)

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    Originally posted by GliderGuy View Post
    Curious about how the nose gear support area is holding up on grass ops. After repairing my nose gear “rip-out” caused by trying a different landing technique (never again)….there are some potentially weak areas in the front end that could be problematic on grass. AND…maybe not.

    Pretty sure will all the support area re-enforcing I did, the only thing that’ll break now is the servo and/or strut pins.

    -GG

    By the way, both times I have messed up a landing that placed stress on the nose gear…the servo sustained damage. Good to have some spare servos for this on hand.
    A lot of their older models seem to be weak around the retract mounts (Su-35, F-14, F-104, Eurofighter) but recent models seem better in this regard.

    Leave a comment:


  • crxmanpat
    replied
    Successful grass ops are more about the ground underneath the grass than the grass itself. One guy flew off grass no problem in Georgia, but the ground underneath is hard packed red clay. Down here in Florida, even though our grass is bermuda cut short, it has soft sandy ground underneath. I couldn't get enough speed to rotate.

    Leave a comment:


  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    You can always try it first. Your grass may well be far more manicured than the stuff beside my runway. However, unless it's close to a golf green (before mowing), it may not be manicured enough.
    Possible - our grass field is indeed next to golf course concourse shortnap manicured cut grass......but being a former City Dump....the runway is pretty wavy. So long runouts may not be possible without bouncing up green...thus the ensuing cartwheel death. A short as possible take off will do best

    I'll try to get a video of the B2 taking or attempting to take off from our grass field.....as soon as I get the opportunity



    TwistedGrin

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  • TwistedGrin
    replied
    Originally posted by F106DeltaDart View Post

    I'd give it a shot first. Considering I got my 70mm F-104 to takeoff from our grass, I'd say there is a good chance it may be ok. I only plan on flying mine from the paved runway at Thunderbird due to all my gear mods though.
    Aye 10:4 on Thunderbirds....but I have to pack my lunch to get there and back it's a long haul out there.....however still worth the drive for a dedicated B2 flight day and maybe to see a former P-47 airframe!!

    TwistedGrin

    Leave a comment:

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