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Official Freewing 90mm Eurofighter Typhoon EDF Jet Thread

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  • BenOzzy94
    replied
    Originally posted by hellcat716 View Post
    I have the Eurofighter on order and I have had callie graphics make some decals for this jet. She has sent me a bunch of red circles and I have no idea where they go. Anybody have a good source where I can get some pictures to help me locate the correct position for these markings?
    Thanks for any info on this matter.
    If you have the model in hand you'll see they already have them on from the factory so should be easy to replicate when re-painted, they go along the back and side of the model between the airbrake and the large numbers on the side. dunno what they're for on the full size and I hadn't seen them until I got the model and when I looked sure enough they're a real thing.
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  • kallend
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    The slow gear door action doesn't really bother me ..................... yet. If it does, I have one of these laying around to try:
    https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...or%20sequencer
    It came out of an older Freewing jet with sequenced door.

    If that's still not fast enough, I'll buy one of these for a few bucks:
    https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...or%20sequencer
    I have a 1700mm FMS P-51 that uses it and the speed seems just about right for this plane.

    The only possible hitch might be that door switch and how it integrates into the system.
    I have a spare Freewing sequencer, but I believe (without proof) that the door timing won't work with the V3 retracts, which are slower than the ones in the earlier generation. I will check today.

    FMS retracts work in reverse to Freewing ones so the FMS sequencer may be challenging to use.

    Leave a comment:


  • Radar-Guy
    replied
    Originally posted by hellcat716 View Post
    I have the Eurofighter on order and I have had callie graphics make some decals for this jet. She has sent me a bunch of red circles and I have no idea where they go. Anybody have a good source where I can get some pictures to help me locate the correct position for these markings?
    Thanks for any info on this matter.
    I‘d guess those are the fuel caps. Maybe this is helpful. But, I checked a couple of photos and it looks these aren’t painted red on RAF or Italian models. Below a link and a pic related to German Eufis.

    http://tailormadedecals.com.v150678....icStencils.PDF

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    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    The slow gear door action doesn't really bother me ..................... yet. If it does, I have one of these laying around to try:
    https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...or%20sequencer
    It came out of an older Freewing jet with sequenced door.

    If that's still not fast enough, I'll buy one of these for a few bucks:
    https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...or%20sequencer
    I have a 1700mm FMS P-51 that uses it and the speed seems just about right for this plane.

    The only possible hitch might be that door switch and how it integrates into the system.

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    I watched a bunch of takeoff videos of real Typhoons, and the gear takes about 1.5 seconds to retract. The doors follow about a second later. It all comes up pretty quickly. I couldn't see how long it takes to put the gear down because no-one seems to video that, but I suspect it's about the same.

    That's way, way faster than the gear/door sequencer in the control box on the model does it. Although the retracts themselves go at their own speed, I see no reason the door needs to be so slow or that the delays are so long. At least one person has posted that he bypassed the control box and programmed his gear and doors from the transmitter to speed things up. That, of course, needs additional channels which I don't have on my AR8360T. I'm toying with the idea of making an Arduino sequencer to handle the gear and doors; the coding should be pretty simple and I can make the sequence run about 50% faster than it does right now. The board will weigh 3 grams - less than the connectors.

    If anyone has already done this, perhaps you would let us know.

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    I guess the big question is what scheme you asked her to make for you?

    Leave a comment:


  • hellcat716
    replied
    I have the Eurofighter on order and I have had callie graphics make some decals for this jet. She has sent me a bunch of red circles and I have no idea where they go. Anybody have a good source where I can get some pictures to help me locate the correct position for these markings?
    Thanks for any info on this matter.

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    Originally posted by yf22raptor View Post
    I ordered mine from rc castle let's see when she arrives
    also just got my graphics from callie will be doing this scheme..
    I have ordered these graphics from Callie but they won't be delivered until May 15 for various reasons. Anyhow, how much painting is required, and how much is part of the decals? I can get the painting done right away.

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Apparently, it's for the nose strut - a different spring rate.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dougcarr73
    replied
    I understand the weight included from the manufacturer, but does anyone know what the added spring is for?
    Attached Files

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  • Dougcarr73
    replied
    Getting closer to being done with this setup.

    Satellite receiver in the nose, control board under the air brake, steering gyro to the left of the receiver, voltmeter spliced with EC5, burner power lead, and gps on top of the receiver.

    There is really not much room for activities in this 90mm, which makes the Spektrum receiver (AR10360T) my go-to yet again since the gyro and telemetry is all in one box.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • J42day
    replied
    I'm liking the Redtail homage To the Tuskegee Airmen..

    Leave a comment:


  • TGoelzer
    replied
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  • RudyD54
    replied
    Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post

    GET THE 8S, every aircraft you have has been thrust upgraded and you can't stop now!! Besides, I need to see how the 8S performs on our grass and you know you're my "just released" Guinea pig and I rarely get anything until I've seen yours perform first! So at least consider my interests before you settle for a 6S!!


    No worries, the 6s is on its way back and the 8s is being sent out to me. Crossing my fingers its here before next week.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Originally posted by RudyD54 View Post
    Just got mine and it looks like I unfortunately got the 6s although I had ordered the 8s. Ugh. Oh well. Now to decide whether I keep the 6s or return this for the 8s I originally ordered. Has anyone received an 8s and been able to get the CG behind the stock marks? My SMC 8s 4400 packs weigh 810g combined for comparison.
    GET THE 8S, every aircraft you have has been thrust upgraded and you can't stop now!! Besides, I need to see how the 8S performs on our grass and you know you're my "just released" Guinea pig and I rarely get anything until I've seen yours perform first! So at least consider my interests before you settle for a 6S!!

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by BIG65 View Post
    Has anybody flown the 8s Euro Fighter? I got the wrong plane from motion and before I open it just wanted to see if there is a difference.
    Do you mean a difference in the way it flies or the difference in the plane itself? Visually, you can't tell the difference between an 8s plane from a 6s plane. The only difference is the EDF. The 8s fan has different specs and uses 8s battery. You shouldn't fly an 8s plane on 6s or it will be pretty weak. Similarly, you shouldn't fly a 6s plane on 8s or you'll burn something up.
    To know the difference in the way one flies compared to the other, one would have to have both planes and fly them. The 8s will have more thrust and balance differently.

    Leave a comment:


  • BIG65
    replied
    Has anybody flown the 8s Euro Fighter? I got the wrong plane from motion and before I open it just wanted to see if there is a difference.

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    I bored out the stinger from the inside before gluing it on and put 42g (two slugs) in it.

    Balanced about an inch behind the marks it’s just a little nervous in flight, no gyro, blustery day and cross wind here today. All flights done clean, no stores. I think 35-40mm will be the sweet spot for those that like a rearward balance and 30 for the mere mortals. 4 minutes on a 6S 5200. It for sure is not like the old EF.

    The rates in the manual are probably a great starting point and where a lot of pilots should be happy. As Jon has noted a few times the landing gear take forever to go up and down. Up isn't that much of an issue but down is. I'll separate the retracts and doors on my radio.

    Did I say it is nowhere like the old Eurofighter?​

    Leave a comment:


  • Dougcarr73
    replied
    Originally posted by xviper View Post
    That sounds about right and exactly what I did. Also using the same batteries you're using. With only 43g of weight, I'm balancing about 10mm aft of the marks. How far aft is yours?
    I'm about 15mm behind the CG with the battery against the wall. I now have a bit of wiggle room to move the batteries up to hit the recommended CG, or back for a bit more high alpha. I actually added one more weight than what shown in the pic for a total of 60g in addition to the provided weight. Since I had extra room, I added the weight. In this case it's better to have the weight and adjust the battery later than to want the weight and wish I added before buttoning it all up.

    Leave a comment:


  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by Dougcarr73 View Post
    I got the 8s model and it’s nose heavy. I’m using SMC’s 5300 mah, LiHv packs for max power. They fit perfectly with room to spare. However I had to add the provided weight and 60g of additional weight to give it the ideal CG slightly aft of the recommended.

    I cleanly cut off a covering panel. I then drilled a hole large enough to hold the weight. I added foam tac to the last stack of weight and then sealed it all up. Looks so good that you’ll never know it was ever modified.
    That sounds about right and exactly what I did. Also using the same batteries you're using. With only 43g of weight, I'm balancing about 10mm aft of the marks. How far aft is yours?

    Leave a comment:

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