Official Freewing 64mm EDF A-10 Thread

[mach5mike]

I've been flying the original with the 5 blade fans for a long time and have always been pleased with the performance and flight time (5-7 minutes on 4S 3600mah). I had a fan blow apart this weekend and noticed it's now shipping with a 12blade power system. What's the performance difference?

[James]

I've been flying the original with the 5 blade fans for a long time and have always been pleased with the performance and flight time (5-7 minutes on 4S 3600mah). I had a fan blow apart this weekend and noticed it's now shipping with a 12blade power system. What's the performance difference?

Hello mach5mike and thats for joining Hobby Squawk. Welcome!. The new 12 blade power system is going to provide more static thrust and also much better sounding A-10. I only recently flew this one for our YouTube channel and you can see that here:

[Dankskunk]

Airliner Fan Hello Airliner, I just placed an order for the A-10 (back ordered) and would also like to upgrade the pilot, may I ask where you got yours from? I really like it, just needs the air hose from the mask. Thanks.

[bcrc]

it isn't all that hard. Pretty simple in face since the actual retracts just drop right in. The only thing that you need to change are the mains. They need to be rotated and go in backwards. it sounds funny at first but actually works really well. Make a flat spot for the set screw and they are done. Minimal widening and foam removal needed to make them fit in the nacelles on the wing. The nose gear does require a little opening for the nose wheel but super quick with a dremel tool. Here is a video of them finished product.

Is the hole in the F5 nose gear strut a 4mm hole, so it will fit right over the 4mm pin in the A10 nose gear retract unit ?

[FLTRI]

Hey All,

Long Time, No Post. May bad there. I'm getting the urge to get this A-10, and have a some questions.

I refuse to buy anymore batteries for new planes. I have some 2200 4S and some 5000 4S in my ammo cans. Could I run the 2200's in series (or parallel, I ways confuse the terms, but you know what I mean). Are the 5000's too heavy or too large to fit?

I read through this thread, and it appears the latest version has most of the original issues ironed out. Anything I'm missing? Front retract is good to go now?

Grass fields, yea, or nay? Do I need a long runway to get airborne? My local field has a pretty short area that is flat enough for a good roll out. Are the retracts oleos or just wire?

I was reading some of the reviews on the product page, and there were some mystery crashes posted on maiden flights. Pilot error, or is there something that makes this A-10 twitchy?

Thanks in advance, I appreciate it!

[Hoomi]

If you put the two 2200 batteries in parallel, you'll still have the voltage for a 4S battery, but about 4400 mAh current capacity. Just to make sure anyone reading knows what we're discussing here, parallel means the red wire from both batteries connect together and the black wire from both batteries connect together, going to the ESC. A series connection would take the red wire from one battery to the ESC, the black wire from that battery to the red wire of the other battery, and the black wire of the second battery to the ESC, making essentially an 8S 2200mAh battery. Whether that's a good idea with LiPo batteries, I can't say. For most battery types, such as alkaline, lead-acid, NiCad, NiMH, etc., it works fine, but I wouldn't try it without making sure from someone with more LiPo specific knowledge than I have.

[Hoomi]

Airliner Fan Hello Airliner, I just placed an order for the A-10 (back ordered) and would also like to upgrade the pilot, may I ask where you got yours from? I really like it, just needs the air hose from the mask. Thanks.

If you're still looking at this and considering it, a couple of us "upgraded" our pilots using a "Corps Elite" action figure, which is pretty close to the correct scale for this model. Unfortunately, this series of action figures has apparently been discontinued, so finding them for a reasonable price is getting difficult. This is the set I used. I took the pilot figure, cut the legs to make him fit in the cockpit, repainted him, and added a couple more details.

https://www.amazon.com/Corps-Elite-Action-Figure-Helicopter/dp/B07LGJJ1Y3/ref=sr_1_5?crid=30GAPD8T7ODFH&dchild=1&keywords=corps+elite+action+figures&qid=1598592525&sprefix=Corps+Elite%2Caps%2C283&sr=8-5

It's looking more like we'll need 3D printers to upgrade our pilot figures in the future, though.

[Mykemu215]

MY brother gave me a Freewing A-10 64mm 12 blade for christmas that I probably will never fly. Still in a box and now for sale. Also have the unopened Detrum 6-channel digital proportional system for it (with 8 channel reciever). both for $200

[StevenR]

Looking for CG help, when CGing the A10 64mm is it done upside down or right side up? and or with landing gear retracted or down? Thx

[SanExup]

StevenR It's a low wing, so upside down. Some people might say gear up some might say gear down. I'd CG gear down and see how "off" the CG is gear up. And vice versa. If you CG gear up and it's slightly nose heavy once you drop the gear, that might be where I'd be inclined to balance it, personally.

[Titan325]

Not sure if this is the correct spot or not but having no lucking in posting a review of the A-10 on Motion RC's site. I like the ideal of 11 to 12 blade fans but at 4S i found the plane under powered.
"I bought the 64mm A-10 just before Motion RC's price increase. Was actually deciding between the A-10 and Mig 21. First I like doing business with Motion RC and their Customer Service is great.
Chose the A-10. Now I will admit , at this time, our club runway is just short of 200 ft. (has a thick petro mat covering). The plane assembles easy and straight forward. ( I missed the part that it did not come with working flaps) . It looks good. Now the bad part. Maiden flight did not go well. at full throttle i could only get it to raise a few inches off ground. ran out of runway so set it back down. It knocked the nose cone off and partly pulled out the nose gear. Actually minor damage. On take off roll to me it was obvious that it was under powered. Freewing missed the mark there, it needs 6s. Also it needs flaps so I will be installing the flaps on the plane. the nose gear area could use a little reinforcing. It took very little force to knock it lose. I am disappointed that there is not struct upgrade. Working structs would improve ground handling and take out some of the impacts of landing off the wire gear. At this point I believe the Eflite version of this plane is better. I know it does cost more. So solution is to offer upgrades so the customer can improve this plane if they want to. The only exception is the power. It needs to use a 6s power system. For a small plane it is a little on the heavy side. I should have aborted the take off earlier it was obvious it ws not developing need spend for lift off. Will spend this winter making the repairs and adding the flaps and by then out club will have added another 150 ft to the runway. So will give it another try. Side note a fellow club member after seeing the poor performance of the Freewing A-10 is opting for the Eflite version.

[GliderGuy]

Hi Titan325 - Did you calibrate the ESCs before your attempted flight?

-GG

[Meyeralaskan1]

How do you calibrate your esc? I just built one and was wondering if I needed to calibrate it

[rifleman_btx]

How do you calibrate your esc? I just built one and was wondering if I needed to calibrate it

When you power your transmitter put your throttle stick to full throttle, power up the reciever, you will here the esc initialize then wait for a couple beeps, soon as you hear them go to 0 power on the throttle. SOP for throttle calibration.

Your posts tells me this is your first plane ever, am I correct? You might want to start with a trainer aircraft before flying this. But then again if your coming from a glow/gasoline background, disregard this portion.

[jasmith41]

How do you calibrate your esc? I just built one and was wondering if I needed to calibrate it

@rifleman is correct, but you have to do this with the batt in the plane unplugged and then plug it in after you turn the tx on, throttle cut off (be careful), and throttle stick up full. then plug inthe plane battery, it will beep once for every cell, and then the next series of beeps will be the throttle calibration. as soon as you hear them and they stop, more the stick back to 0. It should beep once or twice acknowledging it's done, but if you wait too long, it will move on to the next item of rx adjustment and you may find yourself with a messed up rx setting you didn't intend...

it that happens, you may need to blow out the rx to it's defaults and start all over with it's binding and programming. if after doing this the rx beeps constantly, you have a problem and need to start over. good luck.

[gtbcpa]

I need help!! I am so frustrated. I have had two attempted maidens on the Freewing A10 64mm and both times the plane will rotate and then come down hard to the pavement. The first time it caused minimal damage, but the second time yesterday it is a total loss. It is almost like it is stalling, but I believe it has plenty of speed when I take off. The first time it happened without a gyro, so I thought I would try with it, but same thing. No help. I am at a loss. I have never had issues taking off a plane, even if it is out of trim, etc. I have not been able to find anyone else that talks about this happening. Please help. I am ready to give up on this A-10 and go to something else because I have the 90mm F16 waiting and am wanting to work up to that level.

[Mach351]

Has anyone measured the "out of the box" control surface throws with a deflection meter on this 64mm A-10?

I had 25+ mm on full ailerons out-of-the-box, whereas the manual says high rates should be 14 mm. The rudders are also way over specs.

Maiden flight it seemed really nose heavy even with the battery (3600 mah) all the way back to get the CG right. It was so twitchy i pretty much couldn't fly it and managed to land after 1 "lap". Full disclosure: i didn't actually measure the deflection on any surfaces prior to flight and just threw some expo in the transmitter before the flight. (yes, i'm a sinner and just eyeballed it) The trim seemed okay, it was just all over the place.
I've flown the Avanti S and the L39 Albatross for the past couple of years and never got around to actually measuring the control surface throws on these planes, but never had an issues either.

Prior to second flight, had another club member check CG and flight surfaces. Mechanically added a tiny-tad of up-elevator to help counteract the nose-heaviness.
After getting off the ground it was still all over the place and i immediately brought it back down.
After getting home, dug out the handy-dandy control throw deflection meter and found it was on mega-throws in comparison to the manual. (James has a nice video on this, BTW.)

Out of the box: the aileron and rudder push-rods are in the middle of the flight surface horn and on the outermost hole of the servo horn.

I've moved the push-rods to the outer-most hole on the flight surface horn and 3 holes in on the servo horn to reduce the throws and get more resolution. It is actually still a couple millimeters more than the book says on rates, but this should remedy the twitchiness.

Just curious if anyone else is making these adjustments.
The only other mention of it here is post #60 at the end of page 3, and i didn't see a response to that post.

Cheers!

[Klikmaus]

I bought this model back in October and have been slowly purchasing all the other gear needed to get in in the air since then. Got batts, charger, RX, deflection tool, servo wire extenders on hand just wating on the TX to come in. My RX is the Spekteum AR631 which needs to be mounted as close to CG as possible for AS3X and SAFE to function properly, basically in the compartment above the wing. Any suggestions on exactly WHERE to mount the reciever to best utilize these functions?

[xviper]

My RX is the Spekteum AR631 which needs to be mounted as close to CG as possible for AS3X and SAFE to function properly, basically in the compartment above the wing. Any suggestions on exactly WHERE to mount the reciever to best utilize these functions?

This is a myth and an old wive’s tale. A gyro or gyro RX does not have to be mounted anywhere near the CG. Take a look at some of the BNF planes from Horizon and see where the RX is mounted. They can be anywhere and almost everywhere. Some are mounted in the nose, some in front of the leading edge of the wing, some at the CG and some behind the CG. They don’t even have to be dead center. They can be off to the side of the center line. The same can said of other brands of planes that come with pre-installed gyros. It just has to be aligned straight front to back and flat. Some can even be mounted on its edge. Put it anywhere it’s convenient and out of the way of the battery and power wires. AS3X and SAFE will work perfectly well. The AR631 has a single long antenna. I like to run it to the outside to reduce interference but you can run it along the inside of the fuse away from the battery.

[Klikmaus]

This is a myth and an old wive’s tale. A gyro or gyro RX does not have to be mounted anywhere near the CG. Take a look at some of the BNF planes from Horizon and see where the RX is mounted. They can be anywhere and almost everywhere. Some are mounted in the nose, some in front of the leading edge of the wing, some at the CG and some behind the CG. They don’t even have to be dead center. They can be off to the side of the center line. The same can said of other brands of planes that come with pre-installed gyros. It just has to be aligned straight front to back and flat. Some can even be mounted on its edge. Put it anywhere it’s convenient and out of the way of the battery and power wires. AS3X and SAFE will work perfectly well. The AR631 has a single long antenna. I like to run it to the outside to reduce interference but you can run it along the inside of the fuse away from the battery.

Thanks a million bruh! This is my first non-RTF as well as the most costly model I've ever had, been stressing out over getting everything set up correctly so I have the best chance of a sucessful maiden once my transmitter arrives. I wasn't too fond of the idea of having to remove the main wing to access the reciever either.

Merry Christmas to you and yours, as well as everyone else here on the forum!