Official Freewing 80mm EDF F-86 Sabre Thread

[paulrkytek]

https://youtu.be/7KGqLq766Ek Short 2.5 min video with new 2150kv 12blade fan

[RobWetterholtJr]

Thanks Evan, I've answered you in two. 😁 Not familiar (yet) with which boards are more active for certain topics so I thought I'd cast with a wide net and see what each yields in terms of response.

[Evan D]

I've now answered you in three different places.

Every one that we have measured, I have three and there are 4-5 others at my field are well over 125A but so far none have burned up one of the new 100A reversing ESCs. I did reduce timing on the two I have in my Gripens so I max out at 116A but have high in my Avanti, 128A.

A couple people at my field are even running HV LiPos and no issues.

I am very surprised we don't have smoke reports.

[RobWetterholtJr]

I've got a PNP F-86 set to arrive later this week with the new 2150kv motor...excited to get it flying. Anyone run in to any problems with the 100A ESC having enough "head room" with the more powerful motor?

[Elbee]

Cloudniner, Welcome to "The Squawk", Sir. Sounds like a brilliant workaround. Bravo Zulu. Best, LB

[Cloudniner]

I had a problem with the elevators not being equal in throw and the neutral positions not the same. The servo arms when at 150ms were not the same causing unequal throws.
I ended up eliminating the Y cable by cutting the wire at the Rx plug and putting on a new connector. Then told my radio I had now two elevator servos. Problem solved. It would be a problem fixing this as the servos are glued in.
Cheers

[Laserdude]

Not for me but then I fly more scale than fast, but more grunt for take off allowing me to take off on wet grass about 2" long so this should translate into faster speed. I had the 3658 1857 12 blade with the alloy surround originally as opposed to the later 9 blade which had a bit more thrust so I guess it depends on which version you have currently as to how much difference it appears to you .

Thanks

[paulrkytek]

Much faster?

Not for me but then I fly more scale than fast, but more grunt for take off allowing me to take off on wet grass about 2" long so this should translate into faster speed. I had the 3658 1857 12 blade with the alloy surround originally as opposed to the later 9 blade which had a bit more thrust so I guess it depends on which version you have currently as to how much difference it appears to you .

[Laserdude]

First flights with new 12 blade 2150kv in-runner today. Quiet, smooth and efficient. Admiral 4000mah 40c 3.5 mins 28% left.

Much faster?

[paulrkytek]

First flights with new 12 blade 2150kv in-runner today. Quiet, smooth and efficient. Admiral 4000mah 40c 3.5 mins 28% left.

[paulrkytek]

Anyone swapped in the new fan and 2150 in-runner?

Waiting for one to arrive

[Laserdude]

Anyone swapped in the new fan and 2150 in-runner?

[paulrkytek]

New Livery

[Fighterpilot]

This Sabre flies great and I have enjoyed it very much. So much so that I did not start my timer and flew her until I totally lost power on the downwind leg with very little chance to turn back toward the runway. Crushed the nose and pulled out the right main gear and the nose wheel. Difficult to fix those plastic parts molded into the foam; however, I have experience dealing with foam wings and retractable landing gear. I use original Gorilla glue to glue the plastic blocks back into the foam. Be sure to weight the blocks down into the foam or the expanding Gorilla glue will push the block out of position. The glue expands into every little crack in the foam and makes the landing gear block attachment as strong as ever. If the glue expands were you do not want it, just grind it off. The now gear was a little more tricky; however I did the same thing as with the main gear. Applied Gorilla glue to all the voids and to the gear block. Weighted it in place. After glue dried, grind it out of the way where you need clearance. Inside the nose of the jet intake, I laid a layer o 8 oz fiberglass cloth across the bottom of the fuselage, just above the nose gear block.and let the glass travel up the sides of the intake about 1/2 inch. Used Epoxy to glue on the nose gear door mount and everything works beautifully just as it was new. Not as pretty as before, but functional really not that noticeable on the botton of the airplane. I'll fly it the rest of the summer and then get a fresh one ready for next year. This is one of those airplanes that you just want to keep in your stable of airplanes. It is impressive looking, sounds fantastic, and flies great. Just don't expect it to glide very well
Does anyone have one of the plastic clips that goes around the nose gear strut to attach the gear door? If you do, I could use one.. Would be glad to pay postage and a couple of bucks for it.. Thanks.

[Carlos G]

Hello Shaun

I suspect Freewing rounded the tips of the ailerons and elevators to prevent the normally pointed tip from becoming damaged from hangar rash. Pointy tips of a foam model are prone to be easily damaged/mashed/bent. I think this is the same reason for the squared-off trailing edges of most foamy models. The rudder on the other hand, Freewing left alone as it would be much more noticeable with a rounded tip. I believe that's why Freewing molds plastic edges around the intakes of the ducted fans to prevent damage to them.

Carlos G.

[Evan D]

Good question. I never really noticed until now.

What's with the rounded stab/elevators?

Geronimo, a lot of the retracts have play, seems older releases like this (it was a very early FW release) have more. But you should check your set screws now and then. Both the ones in the strut and the ones in the mains retract units themselves.

[Geronimo65]

I have not had my SABRE long and have noticed that the main- and nose gear is very wobbly and loose. Especially the nose gear wobbles in all directions, which is due to a play of the threaded spindle. I have written to Motion RC about this. They say that is normal and no problem. Do you have the same problem? What do you say? Can this be repaired and if so how do you do this?

[Shaun Evans]

What's with the rounded stab/elevators?

[flightaddict]

If you have a friend with a metal lathe, he could make a couple for you out of hardened steel rods. Other than this, having extra shafts on hand is the only way. Additionally, you now know that if you thump down hard on the nose gear after a landing, that shaft will bend. Therefore, after such a landing, look at the strut and bend it straight before it binds up the next time.

I replaced mine with a 5 mm stain steel pin I made from rod stock I got from Amazon. I cut them to length, chuck them in a hand drill and use a small file to machine a groove where the c clip would go but I don't use a c clip as it is too big for the space on the trunnion. Instead I use a piece of 22 AWG copper wire wrapped around the groove and soldered at the ends. I've also peened over the end of the rod and the filed down the taper under the bulge so it will fit in the trunnion but I prefer the copper wire method. Of course I have to file the grub screw flats as well. I fly from a field with short grass but the surface is bumpy and the grass isn't really grass. It's some mutant hay, thistle and weird vine stuff so I go up 1mm in connecting pin size on all my models. I have to drill out the trunnion, steering tiller and strut but I have had no more issues with the nose gear pin bending from bulling it's way through the green stuff.

[Evan D]

When I wore out the wheels the last time I dug in my spare parts draw and found harder (than foam) tires just a bit bigger for mains and nose. Not sure what they were for originally though.