P-38 - The Ultimate EPO Lightning

Official Freewing 70mm Twin Me 262 Thread

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  • Graeme Halliday
    replied
    Maybe I’m lazy. Just changing the gears means no damage to the plane pulling the wiring out.

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by Graeme Halliday
    The 262 has plastic gears. I’m not annoyed by the price of the servo. Just the waste of having to buy a whole servo when all I need is gears.
    Why not just buy the correct servo and use it? Why go through the extra and unnecessary work of taking the gears out of both and putting the gears from the new one into the old one? In fact, when I need to replace a servo, I just simply buy two so they're matched. All things considered, the price of even 2 servos is pretty low.

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  • Graeme Halliday
    replied
    The 262 has plastic gears. I’m not annoyed by the price of the servo. Just the waste of having to buy a whole servo when all I need is gears.

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  • mshagg
    replied
    Originally posted by Graeme Halliday
    Firstly apologies if this has been dealt with before. A friend of mine has damaged his 262. Aileron servo gears need replacing. I can’t find gear sets for the Freewing 17g servo. Can you actually get them. Failing that I guess I need to buy a new servo and swap the gears over. The product page on Motion RC says 17g standard servo for ailerons. What is meant by Standard? Plastic gears or analog servo. Motion seen to list only Digital servos on their website so I guess they mean plastic gears. I don’t want to buy the wrong servo if I have to buy the whole thing. Very wasteful having to buy a servo to get a gear set!
    I think for a $13 servo the gears are considered effectively non-serviceable.

    You'll find freewing servos in standard and reverse directions. The manuals are usually pretty clear on which ones you need - the servo leads are also colour coded to help you identify the direction - brown/red/yellow is standard direction, black/red/white is reverse.

    I understand all of the 17g servos are digital and metal geared.

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  • Graeme Halliday
    replied
    Firstly apologies if this has been dealt with before. A friend of mine has damaged his 262. Aileron servo gears need replacing. I can’t find gear sets for the Freewing 17g servo. Can you actually get them. Failing that I guess I need to buy a new servo and swap the gears over. The product page on Motion RC says 17g standard servo for ailerons. What is meant by Standard? Plastic gears or analog servo. Motion seen to list only Digital servos on their website so I guess they mean plastic gears. I don’t want to buy the wrong servo if I have to buy the whole thing. Very wasteful having to buy a servo to get a gear set!

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron1950
    replied
    Freewing me262 pass on maiden - YouTube
    a pass on the maiden with a 2 year old me262 v2

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  • MeyerVW
    replied
    All fixed and ready to fly.

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  • MeyerVW
    replied
    Learning some things. This aircraft likes to float along with full flaps. Beacuse of this I have stalled close the ground. No major damage. So less flaps on landing. Otherwise a great flight and approach. Because of this I reinforced the nose after the last landing. This gave me an idea. Night fighterish version. Used skewer sticks and chop sticks. A bit of small wire.

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  • DCORSAIR
    replied
    Originally posted by John Bergsmith
    Put the first five flights on Saturday, the ME-262 flew perfectly. It required almost no trim, and has plenty of power. It's a smooth flying airplane that's very easy to land as well. Going to have to order another one for my son now.
    Yep, great flying jet, I sold mine last year, but it was a very fun jet to fly, I wish it was still available in the old colors myself, but then I would buy another one...

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  • John Bergsmith
    replied
    Put the first five flights on Saturday, the ME-262 flew perfectly. It required almost no trim, and has plenty of power. It's a smooth flying airplane that's very easy to land as well. Going to have to order another one for my son now.

    Leave a comment:


  • Twowingtj
    replied
    xviper Yep, one of the only planes that I hold in some down elevator until she's at flying speed. Then, just ease off the down and it's flying.

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  • xviper
    replied
    Originally posted by Captain Moron
    No I think it is still the same. I put some carbon rods in the nose to reinforce the nose and I land on a grass runway with no problems
    All's well and good UNTIL you hit a small gopher hole or bump at anything above taxi speed. Then the whole thing rips out along with all the CF rods. On this plane (as opposed to my V1), I used square CF rods long enough to span the length from about the CG to almost the tip of the nose (just before it narrows to a cone). Now, it'll take those holes and bumps but the front retract will still rip out if you hit it hard enough even though the plane stays intact.
    Originally posted by Twowingtj
    I too added 5mm CF square tubing to strengthen the nose. Easy mod. The newer fan set-up is much better than the original.
    Yes, the new powertrain is far stronger than the V1. Therein lies a potential problem ........................ There is so much power that due to the low hung fan, when under take off full power, the plane can leave the ground prematurely and go vertical before it actually reaches flying airspeed. One must be careful to not allow it to lift off until the plane is up to takeoff speed.

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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    I too added 5mm CF square tubing to strengthen the nose. Easy mod. The newer fan set-up is much better than the original.

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  • Captain Moron
    replied
    No I think it is still the same. I put some carbon rods in the nose to reinforce the nose and I land on a grass runway with no problems

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  • starcop
    replied
    Did Freewing fix the front fuselage gap? The gap breaks the front fuselage in half. If you land in the grass. I'd buy another one if this issue has been resolved. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Thanks. Matt-Mac Daddy flyer some!

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  • Flying Dutchman
    replied
    When will the new inrunner version be available in the EU?

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  • Robert Belluomini
    replied
    Originally posted by themudduck

    A lot depends on your own flying preference - how you like your plane to feel. I like flying "realistically" with big turns and slow movements, makes it look great in the air.
    So that being said: I don't have measurements for you but this is what worked for me:
    Ailerons: middle hole on the aileron, 50% travel on my radio, 35% expo
    Elevator: outside hole on the elevator, 80% travel on my radio, 35% expo
    Rudder: 100% throw, 50% expo (extra expo helps with ground steering)
    Flaps - maximum throw (on this plane the flaps function mainly as air brakes)

    So as you can see, I cut down the aileron throw because as originally set up, they had way too much throw. If you set yours up with more aileron it may be fine, but I found it to have too much so I cut it back.

    Starting out, I would suggest setting a "low rate" on your radio, like 65 or 70%, which will help calm things down on your first flights and then you can go to "high rates" for regular flying. You can always dial up the throws once you get used to it, if you want it to be more responsive.

    One other thing - with the bigger batteries (like 5000, etc) the plane can be nose-heavy. Push the battery back to the rear of the compartment. And reinforce the inside of the nose (many previous posts about that).
    Then you should be good to go and find out how you like it.
    Post the actual throws as different brand radios will give different results



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  • Captain Moron
    replied
    Thanks "mudduck" I will use your recommendations . I also like to fly it scale like so your recommendation will be exactly what I was looking for 👍

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  • themudduck
    replied
    Originally posted by Captain Moron
    I am sure this has been put on the forum but just a quick one .i noticed there are no aileron or elevator suggested movement in the manual. Can some one give me a starting point on what to set the aileron and elevator movements they are using on their 262.Thanks
    A lot depends on your own flying preference - how you like your plane to feel. I like flying "realistically" with big turns and slow movements, makes it look great in the air.
    So that being said: I don't have measurements for you but this is what worked for me:
    Ailerons: middle hole on the aileron, 50% travel on my radio, 35% expo
    Elevator: outside hole on the elevator, 80% travel on my radio, 35% expo
    Rudder: 100% throw, 50% expo (extra expo helps with ground steering)
    Flaps - maximum throw (on this plane the flaps function mainly as air brakes)

    So as you can see, I cut down the aileron throw because as originally set up, they had way too much throw. If you set yours up with more aileron it may be fine, but I found it to have too much so I cut it back.

    Starting out, I would suggest setting a "low rate" on your radio, like 65 or 70%, which will help calm things down on your first flights and then you can go to "high rates" for regular flying. You can always dial up the throws once you get used to it, if you want it to be more responsive.

    One other thing - with the bigger batteries (like 5000, etc) the plane can be nose-heavy. Push the battery back to the rear of the compartment. And reinforce the inside of the nose (many previous posts about that).
    Then you should be good to go and find out how you like it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Captain Moron
    replied
    I am sure this has been put on the forum but just a quick one .i noticed there are no aileron or elevator surgested movement in the manual. Can some one give me a starting point on what to set the aileron and elevator movements they are using on there 262.Thanks

    Leave a comment:

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