Originally posted by Dewey H Lee
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Originally posted by Bob Symes View Post
Hi Ole-Timer, were you able to attain the manual cg of 92-98mm with the 4500 battery as per your photo and no additional tail ballast?
i have struggled to balance with a 2200 t shut graphene 4S, had to add some tail ballast.
Maidened on the weekend, eventful flight with very abnormal, slow to respond controls, including a throttle that would not shut down, would run at about 1/8 speed. Managef to get back on the ground, broke one wheel hub( now replaced with 3” pro lite s). I have never had any luck using the AR636 units. When I repowered it in the workshop to put the gear down to replace the wheels the receiver was dead. Tested with another esc and no go. I replaced the Ar636 with my stock go to Lemon units and all good. Late yesterday afternoon went out to check all the throws with the lemon and now the lemon is dead. So after dinner I stripped the plane down, soldered up a new ESC(Turnigy plush, 60A) hooked up another lemon and all good.
next test is when I get home from work to check if it powers up ok. Not sure what happened, must have not seen the black cat in the dark, LOL.
am waiting on a lemon with end pins(current test one has top pins which does not suit the compartment layout) to have a V2 maiden flight.
Apart from this minor issue this is now my favourite flyer. Next one to maiden is my eflite 2m T28.
thanks for all the info for converting to 4s Old Timer, definitely worth it.
Cheers Bob
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Originally posted by Ole-Timer View PostMy CG is 75-80mm not what the manual states but what I believe to be around 20% of mac given the cord of around 265mm and the swept wing. Remember I ditched the counter weight spinner. It flies fine that way.
it is a beautiful plane in the air, reminds me of when I fly my blue nose 140m P51
kerp well
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To add the 3 inch Robart scale tires you’ll need to sand the bottom of the strut until adequate clearance is achieved. They add washers for clearance when retracted and trim the excess off the axle so the hub cap fits on. I get 8 minute flights from my 4s 4500s and due to their length they conflict with the stock location of the Rx. I simply added a dowel to space the battery upward at the rear. Trimmed a lil off the canopy to fit.
I have flown in this 4s configuration a lot this past summer and like all the Eflite releases I’ve purchased, it does have AS3X installed. As stated prior it’s my go to beater warbird because I’m willing to fly it in conditions I would not fly my full on warbirds without gyros in. Growing up in control line then radio control none of the modern amenities that help fly the models smoothly existed so I’m still largely non-gyro in my fleet. But age is beginning to degrade my vision and reflexes slowly and it does help me to have the gyro in poor flying conditions. Therefor this model seems to always sneak aboard the truck in case conditions at the field are less than what I’d like and I really appreciate that .
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Originally posted by Ole-Timer View PostAhhh, hmmmm, I see a pattern forming here.
Tiger Moth
AT-6
A Spitfire must be next on the horizon!
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That’s so awesome for both of you! Being in the airplane hobby for 50 years now, I have had girlfriends that thought it was cool and my wife put up with it for decades but none of them ever had the gumption to approach it at that level. Glad your both able to enjoy that type of relationship and play nice together!
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We've always done fun things together. For many years, in our younger days, we built and rode Harleys together. Then it was Hot Rods. Yes, she built and drove her own. I started with the planes in 1964, then took a break while in the Air Force and exploring other things. When I got back into it about 6 years ago, she watched with interest. One day she asked if she could give it a try. Two minutes on the sticks and she was hooked.
Back to the AT-6. I think it will be a great first 6 channel warbird for her.
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It will be a great 6 channel warbird for her. Now just a word of caution, in its stock 3s configuration it has a light wingload and crappy tires. It can be a bit of a kangaroo like this. Don’t be afraid to change the tires to Robarts as that alone will help tame the bounce and perhaps once she’s comfortable on 3s she can modify it to 4s as it really prefers the added weight.
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Hey Ole-Timer I’m luvin your T-6 modifications and will use the robarts on my Hollywood Zero. Which FL3648 are you using, the 880KV? Im going 4S but want to turn a 13 inch three blade so I ordered the FMS 3648-600KV. I do have a FL3648-830 but think it may not want to spin a 13x9 3 blade. These motors are quite different, the fms is larger and heavier than the FL.
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Originally posted by Boots Whirlygig View PostHey Ole-Timer I’m luvin your T-6 modifications and will use the robarts on my Hollywood Zero. Which FL3648 are you using, the 880KV? Im going 4S but want to turn a 13 inch three blade so I ordered the FMS 3648-600KV. I do have a FL3648-830 but think it may not want to spin a 13x9 3 blade. These motors are quite different, the fms is larger and heavier than the FL.
One other thing, this model has a low wing load and is prone to float in on landing. Even with the 4s mods. A higher pitch three blade will result in higher landing speeds with even low throttle settings. You may want a 12x8x3... your call
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Taming the AT-6 kangaroo hop during landings...
I just got back from flying this bird and wanted to share my experience with hopping down the runway as I just performed 20 some landings and caused it to bounce!
As a personal rule for landing all my prop airplanes, I do not drag my final legs out. By the time I make my turn from base to final I’m within 50 to 100 ft of the end of the runway and I already have the airplane configured gear and flaps so I can focus strictly on the final glide slope, I have just a whisker of power on as necessary, and I’ve now picked my spot where I expect to enter ground effect then glide to touchdown. Ground effect occurs when you’re within one wingspan of the ground. The general effect is like riding on an extra pillow of air and your model now floats longer than you had expected... Heavy warbirds with high wing loads require more power on final glide slope and power during the entire transition through ground effect. Medium weight warbirds also require some power throughout landings. This AT-6 has a light wing load, even with the 4s set up. It needs only the smallest amount of power during its final decent and before you enter ground effect, kill the power and learn to just glide it in through ground effect. As she settles toward the ground begin to flair about 6 inches above the ground but don’t let it stall until her wheels are literally on the runway. Once you learn this technique on the AT-6 all your landings will be greasers. If you try to ride power in with the light wing load she just does not want to settle properly and the end result will be hopping. It doesn’t matter if flaps are up, half, or fully deployed, the results are the same. Kill the power before entering ground effect and ride her down or your most likely gonna be hopping. It’s a lot more like landing an Apprentice than a warbird...
I strongly recommend if you are the type that flies really long and drawn out final approaches like a jet would, to please reconsider and adopt a closer pattern. Unless of course your actually flying a heavy jet model.
I have just one propeller airplane that I use a slightly longer approach with and that is the P-38 due to its heavy wing load and higher landing speeds. She’s power on all the way to touchdown.
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