Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[jetfool]

Trying to leave this as it is and just fly but I keep seeing little scale details that could be added. I believe I have an addiction. LOL

[Elbee]

Not AN addiction, THE addiction.

[jackdcannon]

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/f4ucorsair/lettering-markings-nomenclature-decals-etc-t48.html

Jack,

Here is an additional reference for placing the nomenclature.

It is mostly photos but gives a general idea.

Best, LB

Thank you Sir!

[Grossman56]

Well, an interesting day at the field to say the least. Had the Corsair up and flew fairly well, although we seemed to have some good breezes at around 100 feet. Made the rooky mistake of landing short of the runway (I believe that's a first for me). I managed to snap the pin that attaches the retract to the strut, fortunately, on the same retract that I just replaced, so I had a spare 'claw'. All fixed up and ready to fly again.
I got one of the last with the smaller pins so I ordered a complete set of retracts with the bigger sized pins, if I have to replace the retracts again, they're ready to go.
Speaking of retracts, the first one had a hairline crack, right where Dave said it would be, from the first landing so when I replaced it, I wrapped a couple of winds of electrical tape around the 'arm' of the retract to give it some more strength, no cracks this time.
Has anyone upgraded to the bigger sized pins and if so, has it helped?

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[f4u ausie]

The only solution I found was to reinforce the area from new.with A hard 2 part plastic glue. Epoxy did not help. The other thing I found the claw as U call call it jumps over the peice that moves along the jackscrew.... Meaning the retract is open,, but the wheel flops open to closed.. I shorten the slot in the side of the retract.
Stops it jumping over.. pics when Home from work

[f4u ausie]

A pic here i shorten the slot .. takes out the slack.. have done this on my f4 also... hope explanation is ok... u can c plastic glue on the side u can see the 3 or4mm rod glued in place. Ive used bbq skewers.. cut down,, carbon rod would b better.. it reduces the freeplay ,,, its in 2 peices from either side.. hope ive been helpful

[Grossman56]

Sounds like a great solution F4U, but the pic didn't post, can you try again?

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[f4u ausie]

The dumb Ozzy was sure pics worked. Soon as home from work

[f4u ausie]

[f4u ausie]

[f4u ausie]

Yee. Hope helps.. having horrible trouble doing pics.. gotta get those young ones t help. Or elbbee.. hese a clever dic?? But I reckon use carbon rod.. the glue is an automotive. 2 part bumper repair glue.. dries rock hard... B safe have fun

[Elbee]

f4u ausie

Great fix! I've thought about how to do that very thing when I cracked the retract on my A-10.

Best, LB

PS: Doing the picture attachments is not always easy.

[jackdcannon]

So I’m on my 3rd attempt at getting the main gear strut doors on. I’m fairly smart but these little plastic buggers are making me crazy. I can’t seem to get the tiny spuds into the holes. Any tricks I’m missing here? TIA

[f4u ausie]

Yep if U r talking about the little nub.
(Pivot point). Which I think U r.

Slide one side in. While the other side is raised. Slide something very thin .. I use a feeler gauge (to measure spark plug gaps). Down below the level of the other hole.. and slooowwly. Push down on the other side. Till it's close. Slowly remove the feeler gauge. Vwalla. Done. May take couple goes. Have fun

[jackdcannon]

Yep if U r talking about the little nub.
(Pivot point). Which I think U r.

Slide one side in. While the other side is raised. Slide something very thin .. I use a feeler gauge (to measure spark plug gaps). Down below the level of the other hole.. and slooowwly. Push down on the other side. Till it's close. Slowly remove the feeler gauge. Vwalla. Done. May take couple goes. Have fun

thank you. I’ll give your technique I try.

[Elbee]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi8q87Dp41c

Corsair Crew,

Great POV in-flight vid of Tony Wood's Corsair by Erik Johnston.

Note the livery if you're doing that squadron version of the FightLine Bubble Top OEM paint schemes.

Best, LB

[e4dragongunner]

Revisited sort of a Motion RC classic. Been sitting for years and it was taunting me.
FlightLine Corsair Repaint.
All detail parts are resin printed on a Uniformation GK2.
Pilot , Cockpit, wheels, radial canopy inner frame, fuel cap.
All .stl's were purchased.
Rattle can, poly top clear, Callie graphics.

[davegee]

Revisited sort of a Motion RC classic. Been sitting for years and it was taunting me.
FlightLine Corsair Repaint.
All detail parts are resin printed on a Uniformation GK2.
Pilot , Cockpit, wheels, radial canopy inner frame, fuel cap.
All .stl's were purchased.
Rattle can, poly top clear, Callie graphics.

Nicely execxuted, e4dragongunner!

Cheers

Davegee

[Grossman56]

Hmm, now where have I seen that pilot before?? LOL
Excellent job my friend!!

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[Aros]

Revisited sort of a Motion RC classic. Been sitting for years and it was taunting me.
FlightLine Corsair Repaint.
All detail parts are resin printed on a Uniformation GK2.
Pilot , Cockpit, wheels, radial canopy inner frame, fuel cap.
All .stl's were purchased.
Rattle can, poly top clear, Callie graphics.

Beautiful job!!

[Elbee]

Gentlemen and Ladies,

It has come to my attention through one of our member's recent posts that my 3D designs I have posted for others to use for "Free" could be being used fraudulently.

If any of you see a design that looks like anything I have posted being offered for sale, let me know right away.

For the record, I have not and will not offer any of my designs for sale.

When I post any of my designs I am sharing with fellow modelers.

Anyone profiting from those posted designs is committing intellectual property fraud and I will prosecute if it is not stopped immediately.

I am both willing and able to do so.

Nuff said.

Respectfully,
Steve