Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

[Aros]

Mine has been sitting far too long. Going to take her for a ride tomorrow.

[davegee]

Mine has been sitting far too long. Going to take her for a ride tomorrow.

Nice looking plane, Aros! I especially like the cowl flaps and the parachute straps over the shoulders of the pilot. Very believable!

Are your cowl flaps rigged to move in the wind or motorized in some way?

Good luck on your next sortie.

Cheers

Davegee

[Aros]

Nice looking plane, Aros! I especially like the cowl flaps and the parachute straps over the shoulders of the pilot. Very believable!

Are your cowl flaps rigged to move in the wind or motorized in some way?

Good luck on your next sortie.

Cheers

Davegee

Thanks Dave! We can thank our good friend Elbee for those cowl flaps. Sadly I lack the ingenuity and skillset to make them operational so they are static only. I just love the way they look. With some luck they will help me fly better!

😆

[Elbee]

Aros

You are both faster and 'cooler' now.

Best, LB

[davegee]

Aros

You are both faster and 'cooler' now.

Best, LB

ZOOOOMMMM!!! 😂😂😂

[davegee]

Thanks Dave! We can thank our good friend Elbee for those cowl flaps. Sadly I lack the ingenuity and skillset to make them operational so they are static only. I just love the way they look. With some luck they will help me fly better!

😆

They certainly look the part, that's for sure!! Nice job!

davegee

[Grossman56]

I wonder if you couldn't rig those cowl flaps with a light spring so that the wind would flatten them while in flight and they would open as you slowed down?
Elbee, what do you think?

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[Elbee]

I wonder if you couldn't rig those cowl flaps with a light spring so that the wind would flatten them while in flight and they would open as you slowed down?
Elbee, what do you think?

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

All,

That was my original thought and design.

Worked perfectly, though finding expansion springs that fit was tricky.

Ace Hardware had these and as I wrote worked quite well.

I later figured why not 'go for it' and make those 'servo driven'.

A bit fiddly at first, but once I added a sliding arm part, these worked awesome, as well.

The design on Prusa Printables is for 'spring loaded' cowl flaps.

Best, LB

[Joe Hockey]

So after 4 or so years of flawless performance of this model, one mistake has created some interesting problems . Poor field conditions along with high water on the field created a nose over at high speed prior to liftoff . What appeared to be a damaged free model led to system check and a potential loose magnet . Heavy clicking on on run up so it was time to take it home and inspect the magnets.

Unfortunately while i have the skill to fix loose magnets , I always struggle with dislodging the red type LockTight used by the factory . So unable to disassemble the motor my assumption ( bad magnet ) so ordered a new one.

New motor along with motor mount arrived, I installed it and went to fly again .
Despite at home testing my taxi was appearing to be sluggish and barely more than stall speed. Bad decisions started now with my attempt to fly , gain altitude and circled back for an emergency landing. Listening to the loud clicking as I passed for a landing worse case occurs the dreaded stall . The retracts take the damage as always noted, and now retracting like chocking frog on a giant fly lol .

So back to the shop again , this time I replace the esc and this time on a watt meter and secured my motor is indeed at full power.

Now onto the retracts . In 4 or so years I only replaced one side one time so I think I am lucky vs what I have read in the various threads.
I am sure the thread will think I am nuts but I felt like this plane is a great model and the retracts should not be a PIA every time something happens.
So 2 goals
1) attempt to fix the gear while waiting on new gear
2) make a easy to remove retract connection.
step one
a) disassemble the retracts , wrap the drive screw in thick felt and attempt to straighten without damaging the screw
b) use oil not grease on the shaft drive screw
c) test and adjust as needed with ( the next step completed servo connection close to the retract)
d) reassemble
e) add a male and female servo connection at the retract base
At this stage my confidence is nil that this mod will work so I dont do the obvious ( add shrink tube on the retract side before soldering. Testing proved me wrong and sure enough the drive screw was straight enought to retract multiple times without issue.
So from this point on when needed my retracts will be replaced at the retract with a simple servo connection the way the factory should have made this model.

In closing I I tend to believe that my larger wheels have allowed my retracts to last longer then most . The wheels provide more cushion on those harder landings.

[Elbee]

Joe Hockey

Great debrief and repair.

Thanks, Joe.

Best, LB

[davegee]

So after 4 or so years of flawless performance of this model, one mistake has created some interesting problems . Poor field conditions along with high water on the field created a nose over at high speed prior to liftoff . What appeared to be a damaged free model led to system check and a potential loose magnet . Heavy clicking on on run up so it was time to take it home and inspect the magnets.

Unfortunately while i have the skill to fix loose magnets , I always struggle with dislodging the red type LockTight used by the factory . So unable to disassemble the motor my assumption ( bad magnet ) so ordered a new one.

New motor along with motor mount arrived, I installed it and went to fly again .
Despite at home testing my taxi was appearing to be sluggish and barely more than stall speed. Bad decisions started now with my attempt to fly , gain altitude and circled back for an emergency landing. Listening to the loud clicking as I passed for a landing worse case occurs the dreaded stall . The retracts take the damage as always noted, and now retracting like chocking frog on a giant fly lol .

So back to the shop again , this time I replace the esc and this time on a watt meter and secured my motor is indeed at full power.

Now onto the retracts . In 4 or so years I only replaced one side one time so I think I am lucky vs what I have read in the various threads.
I am sure the thread will think I am nuts but I felt like this plane is a great model and the retracts should not be a PIA every time something happens.
So 2 goals
1) attempt to fix the gear while waiting on new gear
2) make a easy to remove retract connection.
step one
a) disassemble the retracts , wrap the drive screw in thick felt and attempt to straighten without damaging the screw
b) use oil not grease on the shaft drive screw
c) test and adjust as needed with ( the next step completed servo connection close to the retract)
d) reassemble
e) add a male and female servo connection at the retract base
At this stage my confidence is nil that this mod will work so I dont do the obvious ( add shrink tube on the retract side before soldering. Testing proved me wrong and sure enough the drive screw was straight enought to retract multiple times without issue.
So from this point on when needed my retracts will be replaced at the retract with a simple servo connection the way the factory should have made this model.

In closing I I tend to believe that my larger wheels have allowed my retracts to last longer then most . The wheels provide more cushion on those harder landings.

Love your thinking, Joe! Replacing retracts on this airplane, and flap servos, aileron servos,etc., on some other planes too, is a TOTAL PIA! Even more than the Flightline Corsair, the FMS P-47D could definitely use this technique. I also have been lucky in the 5+ years that I have had my Corsair, changing out retract servos has not happened much, maybe one or two. But I'll definitely consider this mod for the Corsair and other planes in the future. I had not thought of that. Good headwork!

Cheers

davegee

[Grossman56]

I actually bought a complete set of replacement retracts with the larger pins.

https://www.motionrc.com/products/flightline-1600mm-f4u-corsair-complete-main-landing-gear-left-for-6-5mm-retract-pin-flw304081u

https://www.motionrc.com/products/flightline-1600mm-f4u-corsair-complete-main-landing-gear-right-for-6-5mm-retract-pin-flw304082u

I plan on buying the replacement trunions with the larger pins

https://www.motionrc.com/products/freewing-rotating-retract-trunnion-assembly-with-6-5mm-diameter-pin-left-flw304089l

https://www.motionrc.com/products/freewing-rotating-retract-trunnion-assembly-with-6-5mm-diameter-pin-right-flw304089r

that you can install in the existing retracts as well, which I'll probably do in the Winter. As for the existing struts, I should be able to drill them out to the larger size so I'll end up with two complete upgraded sets of retracts for my Corsair. Getting used to her and zeroing in on the trims has improved my flights with this plane tremendously, I've got to the point where she flies a lot like the Flightline Bearcat, which was always a favorite of mine.
Failing to find an aluminum side replacement for the retract casings, I've started to put a couple of tight winds of electrical tape around the point where they seem to like to crack in order to add some strength, not a lot of room in the wing so a couple of winds is about all that will fit.
Good news is that she really isn't a hard bird to land and the Robart tires help a lot too.

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[Joe Hockey]

Thanks guys . A few processes I left out .
When soldering the wires , I put down aluminum foil to protect the foam as well as when I used a lighter to heat the shrink tubing. When splitting the wires that runs into the wing I used a mini piece of plywood as a cutting board so splitting the retract wire is easy when supported.
Test your “wire skinning skills” on a dead servo wire so you know what size hole to use when cleaning off the wire . In practicing I lost an 1” of wire until I got the process down , then it was super easy.
My real name is Lou ( or as seen on RCG as LDM , my friends called me Joe Hockey from my coaching days lol 😀

[Joe Hockey]

I actually bought a complete set of replacement retracts with the larger pins.

https://www.motionrc.com/products/flightline-1600mm-f4u-corsair-complete-main-landing-gear-left-for-6-5mm-retract-pin-flw304081u

https://www.motionrc.com/products/flightline-1600mm-f4u-corsair-complete-main-landing-gear-right-for-6-5mm-retract-pin-flw304082u

I plan on buying the replacement trunions with the larger pins

https://www.motionrc.com/products/freewing-rotating-retract-trunnion-assembly-with-6-5mm-diameter-pin-left-flw304089l

https://www.motionrc.com/products/freewing-rotating-retract-trunnion-assembly-with-6-5mm-diameter-pin-right-flw304089r

that you can install in the existing retracts as well, which I'll probably do in the Winter. As for the existing struts, I should be able to drill them out to the larger size so I'll end up with two complete upgraded sets of retracts for my Corsair. Getting used to her and zeroing in on the trims has improved my flights with this plane tremendously, I've got to the point where she flies a lot like the Flightline Bearcat, which was always a favorite of mine.
Failing to find an aluminum side replacement for the retract casings, I've started to put a couple of tight winds of electrical tape around the point where they seem to like to crack in order to add some strength, not a lot of room in the wing so a couple of winds is about all that will fit.
Good news is that she really isn't a hard bird to land and the Robart tires help a lot too.

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

Curious on what process you used to remove the set screws from the existing struts ? Its the one crutch that fry’s me with Flightline and red style lock tight on every set screw .

[Grossman56]

A good set of wrenches is like gold!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ERIFU6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Heat has been used to loosen the set screws, a soldering iron with a narrow tip helps. I don't know whether there is any kind of solvent that would help. Most set screws I've dealt with have been the blue colored lock-tite.
Anyone else have any advice?

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[Fast N Light]

Curious on what process you used to remove the set screws from the existing struts ? Its the one crutch that fry’s me with Flightline and red style lock tight on every set screw .

In recent years, all my Freewing/Flightline planes have some clear CA like material on the axles and grub screws. I assume they do it intentionally to ensure the gear does not come loose on it's own.

Applying heat has consistently freed the components for me. Depending on the geometry, heat gun, butane pen torch and solder iron have worked. Be careful to not over do it or to roast the plastics nearby. I use aluminum foil or cardboard to shield the heat from wheels/foam and have the allen key installed when heating.

Once they are free, acetone cleans off the remaining residue. Blue Locktite is a must on the reinstalled grub screws.

[Joe Hockey]

Thanks guys , good tips will try protected heat .

[davegee]

In recent years, all my Freewing/Flightline planes have some clear CA like material on the axles and grub screws. I assume they do it intentionally to ensure the gear does not come loose on it's own.

Applying heat has consistently freed the components for me. Depending on the geometry, heat gun, butane pen torch and solder iron have worked. Be careful to not over do it or to roast the plastics nearby. I use aluminum foil or cardboard to shield the heat from wheels/foam and have the allen key installed when heating.

Once they are free, acetone cleans off the remaining residue. Blue Locktite is a must on the reinstalled grub screws.

totally agree with your methods, Fast N Light. I've used them myself for years.

Cheers

Davegee

[Aros]

Any of you gents have a spare battery tray for this bird? Don't ask me how but I have misplaced mine. Not even sure why I would have ever taken it out (maybe to put in a larger strap comes vaguely to mind) but there you have it.

Appreciate any help!

[Grossman56]

Hey Aros, I don't have a spare, but if you want, I'll pull mine and get you the dimensions. I can trace it and send it to you as well if that will help. I know I had to do that with the Avanti, just measured and cut to make a new one.
Speaking of pieces you can't buy separately, does anyone have a spare Robart wheel cover? The spoked cap like i the picture??

One of mine departed the airplane, actually both did but I found one.
Anyway, I'll reimburse you if you have one you could part with.

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)