Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[PaulZ]

Hello Paul,
The stock 600kV motor is spec'd out for use with a 12x7x3 prop whereas the 830kV is spec'd for a 10x6x3 prop.
So I'm guessing that you may already know this info that the amps/watts for both motors are in the same range of 43-45A/650-680W respectively.
These amp/watt readings are based on the load that it is subjected to per the spec'd prop.
By you putting the 12x7x3 prop on the 830kV motor you are most likely going to overdrive the current limits of that motor into a melt down.
Power factors are not linear when it comes to prop diameter/pitch/blade changes and motor kV's.
The power ratings change exponentially whenever one of those factors are modified.
Power calculators like eCalc is the best friend of an electric modeler so that money and frustration is saved.;)
So in conclusion, if you so deem to test your wishes, please verify the integrity of your modified power system with a watt meter which should be a basic tool in every electric flyers tool box before you try to fly the power modified airframe.

Best regards,

Thanks, good advice. How did you know what prop is each motor spec'ed out for? Also in the ecalc tool I don't see any entries for Freewing motors.

I did try the 830kv motors with the plane strapped down the test and they do run too hot...

[OV10]

Motor KV upgrade: Did anyone try the Flightline 830kv motors with the 3-blade propeller? Note that these are not the 880kv motors that come with the speed upgrade and the 2-blade prop!

I am trying to increase the speed of the model while retaining the scale look of the 3-blade props. I don't like the 2-blade props.

Hello Paul,
The stock 600kV motor is spec'd out for use with a 12x7x3 prop whereas the 830kV is spec'd for a 10x6x3 prop.
So I'm guessing that you may already know this info that the amps/watts for both motors are in the same range of 43-45A/650-680W respectively.
These amp/watt readings are based on the load that it is subjected to per the spec'd prop.
By you putting the 12x7x3 prop on the 830kV motor you are most likely going to overdrive the current limits of that motor into a melt down.
Power factors are not linear when it comes to prop diameter/pitch/blade changes and motor kV's.
The power ratings change exponentially whenever one of those factors are modified.
Power calculators like eCalc is the best friend of an electric modeler so that money and frustration is saved.;)
So in conclusion, if you so deem to test your wishes, please verify the integrity of your modified power system with a watt meter which should be a basic tool in every electric flyers tool box before you try to fly the power modified airframe.

Best regards,

[PaulZ]

Motor KV upgrade: Did anyone try the Flightline 830kv motors with the 3-blade propeller? Note that these are not the 880kv motors that come with the speed upgrade and the 2-blade prop!

I am trying to increase the speed of the model while retaining the scale look of the 3-blade props. I don't like the 2-blade props.

[Dual Prop Dave]

In the flight overview of the Flightline P38, Ryan mentions that he had upgraded the wheel to DuBro. Will the same upgrade apply to the strut upgrade? I would like to add the larger DuBro, but they are not mentioned again in any of the P38 videos.

Welcome to the Squawk CD!
I have done both the strut upgrade and the Dubro upgrade on my P-38, and the only problem I ran into was putting a spacer between the strut and the wheel to keep the wheel from rubbing the strut and just the minimal trimming of some foam at the rear of the mains so the wheel doesn't rub going into or out of the wheel well.
Everything works flawlessly and the Dubro's helped make a smoother landing (takes some of the bounce out of it on less than desirable landings).
Hope this helps! :Cool:

DPD

[CessnaDriver]

In the flight overview of the Flightline P38, Ryan mentions that he had upgraded the wheel to DuBro. Will the same upgrade apply to the strut upgrade? I would like to add the larger DuBro, but they are not mentioned again in any of the P38 videos.

[Mark 2]

Not guilty as far as the Loctite is concerned, and the crack didn’t originate from, or even go near, any of the screw holes, but I did only balance the whole prop assembly as one item on a prop balancer, so that might be it.
Very relieved that I caught this issue before the prop broke up in flight, this is one of my favourite planes.
Thinking back to yesterday’s flights, I heard a slight but noticeable buzzing noise during a couple of low passes that that I don’t remember hearing before, I think that might have been a clue that all was not well.

[xviper]

A crack like that can develop if the screws were tightened just a bit too much or if Loctite was use. Although the whole assembly may have been balanced, was each blade weighed and equalized? Was the assembly without the blades balanced? A complete assembly, with blades may be balanced but if one of the blades were a bit heavier or lighter than the other two, there can still be a harmonic developing.

[Mark 2]

Just discovered this during a routine post flight inspection!
There hadn’t been any prop strike or damage to the prop blade, and the whole assembly had been balanced.

[flyAA]

Any gear can be plugged into any gear port on the box. Same goes for the doors.
There isn't much room, as you say. I put it where I could and pushed all the wiring into the space. To keep it all in place, I put a piece of clear tape over all of it.

Hey thanks!

That rats nest is really doing a number on my OCD!

[xviper]

Any gear can be plugged into any gear port on the box. Same goes for the doors.
There isn't much room, as you say. I put it where I could and pushed all the wiring into the space. To keep it all in place, I put a piece of clear tape over all of it.

[flyAA]

Hey guys. Just got mine repainted and started the build. Couple questions:

-does it it matter where you plug the landing gear leads on the blue box? Can the nose be plugged into any LG port or does it have to be 1,2 or 3? Same question for the gear doors as well
-are most guys just stuffing the blue box into the area between the booms and nacelle and not securing it? There isn’t much room to play in there.

thanks!

[xviper]

Here's the one video I did of mine from nearly 3 years ago. It may be personal perception, but I don't think mine is as fast. I fly at 3500 foot elevation but I don't think that would make the kind of difference I see in the videos and I don't think they changed the stock power system in the last 3 years. (Ain't gopher holes fun on landings? :Angry: )

[xviper]

Im not sure why VX. Mine is "plumb-slap"stock except for the l/g. It is fast for sure. How did you set the timing on your esc's? Mine is mid timing.

I left the timing as it came from the factory.

[Mrdronenut]

It appears to be very fast in the video. Mine is also bone stock and it’s not nearly that fast. :Confused:

Im not sure why VX. Mine is "plumb-slap"stock except for the l/g. It is fast for sure. How did you set the timing on your esc's? Mine is mid timing.

[xviper]

It appears to be very fast in the video. Mine is also bone stock and it’s not nearly that fast. :Confused:

[Mrdronenut]

Oops. 3 Blade. I flew 4 different planes yesterday,two 4 bladed(p-61,B-26,)and two 3 blades(p-38,B-17) so yep. My bad. My mistake. All stock w/stock 3(three) blades.
sorry for the mis-information

[xviper]

I didn't catch the Olive Drab as Flightline calls it "Allied Green". The stock prop is a 3-blade. The upgrade is a 2-blade. Maybe your 4-blade has a bit more bite.

[Mrdronenut]

I thought I said it in my original post. I have the Olive Drab(OD). This plane is completely stock. No upgrades except the landing gear. 4 bladed prop. Stock motors. Stock esc's. Stock 4 bladed props

[xviper]

I have the OD

I have a little brain fog tonight. What's "OD"? I can't tell from the video. It's really blurry. Do you have the stock plane or the one with the power upgrade. The video shows a P-38 that's way faster than the stock one.

[Mrdronenut]

https://youtu.be/P36DFdWXhWI