You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    I take it you ran out of threads on the ball link socket as well?:Confused:

    Leave a comment:


  • Beeg
    replied
    Kerrydel, does your radio have sub trim? Instead of mechanically moving the servo arm I just used sub trim in mine to reset zero on that servo, Works great for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • kerrydel
    replied
    Unfortunately, its in the center section. Guess I'll have to remove the boom to get to it.
    This is the first plane I've ever purchaced that had the servos in place and unremoveable (my first foamy).

    Thanks for the help.
    Kerry

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    That's actually what I was gonna show ya. So yes that's the way to do it.

    Leave a comment:


  • boomer108
    replied
    Originally posted by kerrydel View Post
    I am assembling one of these and found that the arm on one of the flap servos is not positioned correctly (the flap will not retract all the way). How do I remove the servo to reposition the arm? I emailed Motion RC, but am still waiting to hear from them, so any assistance will get me going sooner.

    Thanks
    Kerry
    Welcome to the Squawk Kerry! What I've done with a a few of my planes when the servo arm screw is below the wing surface is to take a long shaft phillips the same size as needed for the screw, and heat up the tip and lay it on the foam at an angle to the screw and make a slot in the foam just enough to access the screw. You can then get the arm off to adjust and not have to remove the servo. Just touch up with matching paint and your done.

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    If you are still having a problem when I get back to the house I'll shoot a pic and show you what needs to be done

    Leave a comment:


  • kerrydel
    replied
    I am assembling one of these and found that the arm on one of the flap servos is not positioned correctly (the flap will not retract all the way). How do I remove the servo to reposition the arm? I emailed Motion RC, but am still waiting to hear from them, so any assistance will get me going sooner.

    Thanks
    Kerry

    Leave a comment:


  • SoLongSidekick
    replied
    The solution most speculated about and tried over on RC Groups is using a MAS semi-scale tri-blade prop. I posted in their P-38L thread asking what the most recent consensus on it was about 2 weeks ago and got no response of course. I'd gladly sacrifice a tiny bit of scale detail in something like a prop for the ease of using a 1-piece prop.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rcfiddy1
    replied
    Originally posted by Oxotnik View Post
    Lost a prop blade while flying yesterday. Second time. I have really come to dislike the plastic back plates. I love Flightline aircraft, except for the dang plastic back plates. The blade was shed at WOT, of course, almost directly in front of me. Didn’t feel that I could glide through multiple turns for a downwind approach; so, I let it glide way down range before setting down in relatively rough grass. Bent some struts (probably should’ve opted for a belly landing) and broke a wing tip. Easy fixes. Just frustrating to loose a prop in flight. (The props were not over tightened, and I inspect the back plates every few flights).
    Try a make a metal plate for front of blades and thru bolt it with lock nuts or locetite.

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    That really sucks man, I still have yet to have any issues with my props. Really wish there was a way to figure out why that happens to some but not all.

    Leave a comment:


  • Oxotnik
    replied
    Lost a prop blade while flying yesterday. Second time. I have really come to dislike the plastic back plates. I love Flightline aircraft, except for the dang plastic back plates. The blade was shed at WOT, of course, almost directly in front of me. Didn’t feel that I could glide through multiple turns for a downwind approach; so, I let it glide way down range before setting down in relatively rough grass. Bent some struts (probably should’ve opted for a belly landing) and broke a wing tip. Easy fixes. Just frustrating to loose a prop in flight. (The props were not over tightened, and I inspect the back plates every few flights).

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Able to finally test my new P38 4000mah packs after 7 mins of flight heres the readings 3.85 per cell and 15.46 pack voltage, very pleased.

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Yeah that will be good when they start selling the upgrade components

    Leave a comment:


  • SoLongSidekick
    replied
    Interesting.

    I remember how insanely excited I was to build this plane when I first ordered it, but I still haven't taken most of it out of the box yet. The main reason is that I've been insanely busy, but also Motion told me that they would be releasing the upgraded wing wire harnesses for sale and when they did they'd send me a free set. So I've kind of been patiently waiting for that too. Maybe I should check up on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Nah it was the main board and battery monitor board. The gps antenna is small enough on my system it doesn't touch at all. The size of my packs I had to stack them instead of running them side by side for even the LOS canopy to fit smoothly

    Leave a comment:


  • SoLongSidekick
    replied
    In what way aren't they fitting right? I was planning on making those the remainder of my P-38 battery stock.

    What part of your FPV system is interfering with the batteries? The GPS antenna?

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Yes that's what I'm doing, just be sure to make it parallel and not series and you're good to go. So far the 4000s aren't fitting as comfortably as I wanted. I really don't know if the fpv system will fit like I want or not. I'll try it when the tropical depression clears out of here

    Leave a comment:


  • SoLongSidekick
    replied
    Ahh you butthead! That's what I wish I had! I was using outdated information when I ordered, from back when the 3,000mAh packs were the biggest that fit so that's what I'm using. I'm pretty sure I got the idea to Y the batteries and ESCs together from you right? That just seems the safest way of doing it to me, does anyone else disagree?

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    I don't, but I did upgrade to 4000mah packs vs the 2700. However depending on the weather, I will be able to test battery temps

    Leave a comment:


  • SoLongSidekick
    replied
    Well all my FPV equipment will be in the mock radio compartment. A big part of me deciding to place it there was the knowledge that the Unify Pro gets crazy hot, especially when using the 800mW mode. The "glass" panels in the canopy will all be removed except for the panels around the radio compartment. It will have one vertical slit at the back to suck air from the front through the back.

    So if I do utilize that hole to mount a camera I need to make sure it has a hollow center so air can still pass through it. Not impossible, I just need to make sure I can make it big enough to keep my gear cool. Anyone have a rig where they can test their battery temp during flight that I can use as test data?

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X