Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[Larry D]

Just hoping that someone at MRC will see this. Lately Flightline/Freewing have been pre-applying decal sets and the customer has no choice but to accept it. Yeah, I know, it can be repainted, but then there is the masking, color match, etc. As a long time customer and firm believer in the overall quality of Flightline and Freewing products, PLEASE at least offer customers the opportunity to select the decal set they desire. Looks like I'll be repainting a new out of the box airplane. SIGH

[flyguysc1]

motors run all surface controls work both esc s calibrated one still beeps repeatedly.pull battery connecter on one esc beeping still precise

[GliderGuy]

motors run all surface controls work both esc s calibrated one still beeps repeatedly.pull battery connecter on one esc beeping still precise

Continuous beeping can be an indicator that the throttle transmitter channel is reversed from what is needed.
Try reversing the direction of the throttle channel in the transmitter.

CAUTION!!! You should remove the props when you are experimenting with the ESCs. If she comes alive at full throttle on the workbench, you can get seriously injured.

-GG

[Captain Billy]

I put the maiden flight on a friends Flightline P-38 and took his word that the plane was correctly balanced. I had to put all of the up trim in the transmitter to get the nose up and still had to fly with about 1/4 stick of up elevator. Just about had nothing left to lift the nose on landing. From what he told me, the instructions say to balance the aircraft 65 mm from the leading edge at the root of the wing. Can anyone confirm that the aircraft flies well at this balance point or does the CG need to be somewhat farther back. Just trying to see what experience you guys may have had with the airplane.

[RCAVI8T0R]

I put the maiden flight on a friends Flightline P-38 and took his word that the plane was correctly balanced. I had to put all of the up trim in the transmitter to get the nose up and still had to fly with about 1/4 stick of up elevator. Just about had nothing left to lift the nose on landing. From what he told me, the instructions say to balance the aircraft 65 mm from the leading edge at the root of the wing. Can anyone confirm that the aircraft flies well at this balance point or does the CG need to be somewhat farther back. Just trying to see what experience you guys may have had with the airplane.

I have flown at the book CG (65mm) for years with no issues. I do have some up mechanically adjusted up elevator when the sticks are relaxed.

[Evan D]

I think the problem with the book CG is the reference point for the 65mm. In the end book CG is a starting point. Move to suit.

[Grossman56]

Just wondering if the elevator was level when the trim was neutral, it might be a case of improper setup...
Doesn't take much down elevator to throw things off.

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[GliderGuy]

The set-up manual shows 4 mm of up elevator setting with neutral stick and with book CG (see excerpt screen capture).
Also, she pitches up when flaps are lowered, so per the book…mix in a bit of down elevator as the flaps are lowered…flaps = master, Elevator = slave

If the mechanical 4 mm up elevator isn’t set, you’ll have your hands full keeping the nose up on the maiden. Book CG is fine for starters.

-GG

[rckruser]

P-38 Motor Mount Replacement
How do you replace a broken motor mount? Do you have to completely cut off part of the nacelle? If so, in front of the mount or behind it? Could you cut part of the nacelle and pull the mount out and slide a new one in?
I had the port motor prop blow a blade in flight. Only damaged the LG doors and the motor mount. It twisted in place and broke.

Thanks in advance,

Bernie

[xviper]

P-38 Motor Mount Replacement
How do you replace a broken motor mount? Do you have to completely cut off part of the nacelle? If so, in front of the mount or behind it? Could you cut part of the nacelle and pull the mount out and slide a new one in?
I had the port motor prop blow a blade in flight. Only damaged the LG doors and the motor mount. It twisted in place and broke.

Thanks in advance,

Bernie

Are you talking about the "X" mount that is screwed onto the back of the motor and then that whole thing is screwed to the firewall (aka "motor board")? This is what Freewing calls the "motor mount":

https://www.motionrc.com/products/flightline-motor-mount-type-a-mo1364842?variant=

You remove the spinner and whatever is left of your prop. The yellow part is held on by a couple of screws. Then the whole yellow cowl comes off. The X-mount is pretty obvious.

Or are you talking about the "motor board"?

https://www.motionrc.com/products/flightline-1600mm-p-38l-motor-board-flw301092?variant=

This one is a little more complicated. Looking at the cut-out drawing in the owner manual, you can see that the motor board is held in place by the foam in front of it (page 9). If it were me, I'd cut the whole front section (foam part) of the engine nacelle, immediately in front of the motor board. Remove the motor and X-mount first. This way, you have the most amount of surface area of foam to glue back onto the nacelle. Once you've done that, the motor board should come right out by pulling it straight forward. When you put the new one in, glue the back of it to whatever is behind it. I haven't had my P-38 for quite some time and never had to do this on the plane but I have done something similar to an FMS Corsair. The other simple option is to buy a complete left or right fuselage. It'll come with the motor board already installed.

BTW, have a look at this picture from an earlier post. It may give you some ideas:



And take a look at this post:

https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc-airplanes/rc-propeller-airplanes/1978-official-flightline-rc-1600mm-p-38-lightning-thread?p=141753#post141753

[rckruser]

Are you talking about the "X" mount that is screwed onto the back of the motor and then that whole thing is screwed to the firewall (aka "motor board")? This is what Freewing calls the "motor mount":

https://www.motionrc.com/products/flightline-motor-mount-type-a-mo1364842?variant=

You remove the spinner and whatever is left of your prop. The yellow part is held on by a couple of screws. Then the whole yellow cowl comes off. The X-mount is pretty obvious.

Or are you talking about the "motor board"?

https://www.motionrc.com/products/flightline-1600mm-p-38l-motor-board-flw301092?variant=

This one is a little more complicated. Looking at the cut-out drawing in the owner manual, you can see that the motor board is held in place by the foam in front of it (page 9). If it were me, I'd cut the whole front section (foam part) of the engine nacelle, immediately in front of the motor board. Remove the motor and X-mount first. This way, you have the most amount of surface area of foam to glue back onto the nacelle. Once you've done that, the motor board should come right out by pulling it straight forward. When you put the new one in, glue the back of it to whatever is behind it. I haven't had my P-38 for quite some time and never had to do this on the plane but I have done something similar to an FMS Corsair. The other simple option is to buy a complete left or right fuselage. It'll come with the motor board already installed.

BTW, have a look at this picture from an earlier post. It may give you some ideas:



And take a look at this post:
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc...753#post141753

Thanks for the prompt reply. Yes it is the "motor board" that broke. You confirmed my fear that I will have to cut the nacelle. I was thinking of cutting a 1/2 inch wide piece on the top of the nacelle with the motor board centered in the foam cutout. I should then be able to lift the board out and slide the new one in. This way I don't have to cut the whole front of the nacelle off. Do you think this will work? I was planning on using Foam Tac to reattach the piece(s). I will probably add the bamboo skewers to prevent the board from twisting.

Thanks again X.

Bernie

[xviper]

Thanks for the prompt reply. Yes it is the "motor board" that broke. You confirmed my fear that I will have to cut the nacelle. I was thinking of cutting a 1/2 inch wide piece on the top of the nacelle with the motor board centered in the foam cutout. I should then be able to lift the board out and slide the new one in. This way I don't have to cut the whole front of the nacelle off. Do you think this will work? I was planning on using Foam Tac to reattach the piece(s). I will probably add the bamboo skewers to prevent the board from twisting.

Thanks again X.

Bernie

That seems like an even better idea than mine. Your idea would maintain more of the fore/aft integrity of the motor board once you've got it all back together. FoamTac would also be my first choice for glue.
My second choice on how to do this would have been to cut the front area along the seam, top and bottom. Then split the 2 halves until you could pull out the board. This is what I had to do with my FMS Corsair.

[rckruser]

That seems like an even better idea than mine. Your idea would maintain more of the fore/aft integrity of the motor board once you've got it all back together. FoamTac would also be my first choice for glue.
My second choice on how to do this would have been to cut the front area along the seam, top and bottom. Then split the 2 halves until you could pull out the board. This is what I had to do with my FMS Corsair.

I'm seriously going to consider your split the seam option. There's a lot more foam in there then I first thought. The foam covers most of the back (as well as the front) of the board. There is only about 4.5 inches on the top and 8 inches on the bottom of the nacelle that needs to be split. I'll need an extra long X Acto blade LOL.

I have a FL Sea Fury fuselage with a broken board. After struggling with it I simply replaced the fuse. I still have the old one and I'm thinking about trying the two theories on it. A little surgical practice. While the construction of the planes are different I think this will give me a clue to the best approach.

With the season quickly shutting down it may be a few days (weeks) before the surgery. I'll let you know the results.

Thanks again,

Bernie