Roban - World Class Scale Helicopters

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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

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  • Originally posted by rifleman_btx View Post
    So to prove my theory I cut the other boom front in half (since it was busted as well) to look at how it was glued, major difference.
    EDIT - Here's the photo that Rifleman posted so you don't have to go back to the last page to see it: https://www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata...photoid=141574

    I'm trying to decipher what I'm seeing here. Why does it look like both mounting plates are not glued in flush? It looks like the right side is pulling away.

    Jeez, losing a motor mount was my main concern after seeing so many videos and reports of it with this model. But now knowing that you don't even have to throw a prop blade to have it happen I'm even more worried. Luckily my motor mounts are still supported by packing material so I haven't had any mid-air incidents, thank god. After getting so much feedback from you guys saying that the model will definitely fly much better once unpacked and assembled I think I'm going to ground my P-38 until I can get that done. Any tips for reinforcing the firewall?

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    • The one in back was the one that failed, notice the lack of glue in comparison to the one still in place with proper amount of glue on the board. When I got to the motor that popped out the board wasn't even bonded to the foam at all but was infact cocked sideways in relation to how it should have been had it had the proper glue. What I might do next time is take and pop some holes through the board and foam and press some CF rods through to lock them down better and definitely much more secure. Plus it will take the worry away from if the glue is in place or not. It has me wanting to take a look at my tigercat as well now. To be honest, I still think Oxotnik and myself had freak accidents and by no means should be considered anything normal with flightline/freewing.
      and I think what you are noticing and thinking is the mount pulling away is indeed the cut wire relief. The one still in the foam is still firmly in place.

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      • I'll have a green one as soon as they're back in stock. As usual - It's all Pat's fault! :)

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        • Always!

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          • Let me reaffirm motion is the best in customer satisfaction period! No one does it better than them! Thank you from the bottom of my heart, veterans helping veterans and hobbiest helping hobbiest! Trust me I'm looking forward to buying more from them!

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            • Rifleman, I don't think they'd need carbon rods. They just need to be kept from moving and wallowing out the slot they're in. I'd just use an inexpensive bamboo skewer in each corner slathered with epoxy or something. Or, like I did just use a long narrow tipped syringe to inject epoxy around the perimeter of the firewall board. As long as the board doesn't slam back and forth in it's slot with throttle movement it shouldn't work itself loose.

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              • Ah yes, agreed

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                • I don't see any glue anywhere. I'm so lost here. What I meant by "looking like it is prying loose" is attached.

                  I'm so lost. Perhaps that's another thing that could be solved by removing my P-38 from its box.

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                  • The white with the center painted dark is all plastic. All one piece the part of it that is painted is the only thing exposed thus is painted the surrounding area that is white is encapsulated in the foam thus cant be painted, however when being inserted in place inside the foam it needs plenty of glue so not to have it flop out like mine did.

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                    • Looks like Allied Green is back in stock. I'll solder up a parallel harness in my "free time". Need 3000/4S for the Tiger Moth, this bird can share

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                      • Originally posted by Beeg View Post
                        Rifleman, I don't think they'd need carbon rods. They just need to be kept from moving and wallowing out the slot they're in. I'd just use an inexpensive bamboo skewer in each corner slathered with epoxy or something. Or, like I did just use a long narrow tipped syringe to inject epoxy around the perimeter of the firewall board. As long as the board doesn't slam back and forth in it's slot with throttle movement it shouldn't work itself loose.
                        I drove 5 bamboo skewers through the bulkhead and it has been solid, and still is (I’ve checked everything thoroughly, since I’ve recently had a backplate failure).

                        Earlier, I’d reported that I’d had the plastic back plate fail twice and the motor sheer off, but I’ve actually only had the plastic backplate fail once on my P-38. The other time it had occurred was on my Freewing Mossie. Still, I don’t like the individual props and the plastic back plates. Otherwise, I love, love, love my P-38. I’ve almost finished the minor repairs from the hard set-down when the backplate broke and shed a prop blade. I plan to have her flying again this weekend. I found a few photos of my engine mount failure and repair and have attached them below:
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                        Warbirder

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                        • Originally posted by rifleman_btx View Post
                          The white with the center painted dark is all plastic. All one piece the part of it that is painted is the only thing exposed thus is painted the surrounding area that is white is encapsulated in the foam thus cant be painted, however when being inserted in place inside the foam it needs plenty of glue so not to have it flop out like mine did.
                          Ahh ok thanks, that's what I was missing.

                          Originally posted by Oxotnik View Post
                          I drove 5 bamboo skewers through the bulkhead and it has been solid, and still is (I’ve checked everything thoroughly, since I’ve recently had a backplate failure).

                          Earlier, I’d reported that I’d had the plastic back plate fail twice and the motor sheer off, but I’ve actually only had the plastic backplate fail once on my P-38. The other time it had occurred was on my Freewing Mossie. Still, I don’t like the individual props and the plastic back plates. Otherwise, I love, love, love my P-38. I’ve almost finished the minor repairs from the hard set-down when the backplate broke and shed a prop blade. I plan to have her flying again this weekend. I found a few photos of my engine mount failure and repair and have attached them below:
                          These skewers are just basically pressing up against the motor mount, right? Or are they attached or through it?

                          I totally agree about the three-piece props. Let's get on finding a replacement! When I researched this topic before I found that some people had worked out how to use a semi-scale MAS tri-blade prop, so I'll go find those posts and report back on it. If we can find a way to reliably and easily swap the props out for a MAS version it would be huge. Stand by...

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                          • OK so here it is. It's actually quite a bit simpler than I thought, and we're going to work on simplifying it. Here's pmisuinas from RCG's method for using a MAS 13x8x3 prop (I did see another user using 11x7x3 MAS props, but he was using 6S).

                            1) Take stock prop backplate and saw off original prop mounting tabs, and sand to smooth (images 1 and 2).
                            2) Temporarily (or permanently, see note below) glue the prop to the backplate, ensuring the back of the blades are lined up with the spinner.
                            3) Cut a pattern in the stock spinner to match the new prop (images 3 and 4, image 5 shows before and after).

                            The last image is just a shot of a Bf109 with a MAS prop.

                            Regarding potential prop slippage, he stated you could either keep the prop glued to the backplate or (as he did) just glue a bit of sandpaper to the spinner facing the prop. Testing showed that the stock prop drew 91 amps and the MAS prop drew 80 amps. I wasn't able to find any mention regarding performance differences, but I sent him a message and will report back.

                            As far as improving this method, I'm going to 3D scan my finished backplate and spinner and then modify the file as needed. Then I'll upload it to Shapeways and see how much it would cost to get a set printed in aluminum.

                            EDIT - The real hope is that someone releases a ~3748-600kV PoPo motor. That would solve all our problems.

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                            • Here's what I did...30 minute epoxy...

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                              TiredIron Aviation
                              Tired Iron Military Vehicles

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                              • Originally posted by SoLongSidekick View Post
                                These skewers are just basically pressing up against the motor mount, right? Or are they attached or through it?

                                I totally agree about the three-piece props. Let's get on finding a replacement! When I researched this topic before I found that some people had worked out how to use a semi-scale MAS tri-blade prop, so I'll go find those posts and report back on it. If we can find a way to reliably and easily swap the props out for a MAS version it would be huge. Stand by...
                                After I'd glued the forward end of the boom back together, I drill holes through the foam and bulkhead, then pushed the bamboo skewer (coated with Foam Tac) through the holes. I think that I probably pushed the skewers about 4 or 5 inches past the bulkhead into the foam. After the photo with the skewers was taken, I cut off the skewers flush with the surface. It was on this same boom that I recently suffered the backplate failure. I inspected the boom very carefully, after removing the broken spinner/prop, and the boom repair is still very solid.

                                [edit] As a part of gluing the boom back together, I lather up the bulkhead in Foam Tac, as well.
                                ---
                                Warbirder

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                                • Yes, that should be very stout

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                                  • Why am I suddenly thinking of 'She's so fat that...' jokes???
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                                    Warbirder

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                                    • Originally posted by Oxotnik View Post
                                      Why am I suddenly thinking of 'She's so fat that...' jokes???
                                      I deleted that post, totally uncalled for...strike one.
                                      TiredIron Aviation
                                      Tired Iron Military Vehicles

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                                      • Wow. That's ridiculous.

                                        EDIT - I'm out of here. I was literally just given a ban warning for posting an obvious joke, that had no profanity, to a friend, and that had a freaking smiley at the bottom of it. I've never seen such overbearing mods in my life. Rifleman, Hardway, Saltydawg, and I'm sure a bunch of others: thanks so much for the help, I would never have even bought this model if it wasn't for your posts.

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                                        • Originally posted by SoLongSidekick View Post
                                          Wow. That's ridiculous.

                                          EDIT - I'm out of here. I was literally just given a ban warning for posting an obvious joke, that had no profanity, to a friend, and that had a freaking smiley at the bottom of it. I've never seen such overbearing mods in my life. Rifleman, Hardway, Saltydawg, and I'm sure a bunch of others: thanks so much for the help, I would never have even bought this model if it wasn't for your posts.
                                          Friends don't post about each others mothers...no smiley in your original post.
                                          TiredIron Aviation
                                          Tired Iron Military Vehicles

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