Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[me109pilot]

Hey Guys,

I'm looking at adding a muli engine to my fleet. What are everyone's views on selection between F7F or P38??

I'm haven't flown the F7F but I sure enjoy flying the P38. The F7F would be a nice addition to my multi hanger.

[rifleman_btx]

I'm haven't flown the F7F but I sure enjoy flying the P38. The F7F would be a nice addition to my multi hanger.

Yes! Get it! :)

[Hardway]

I'm haven't flown the F7F but I sure enjoy flying the P38. The F7F would be a nice addition to my multi hanger.

If you like the P-38, you will love the Tigercat...…:Cool:

[rifleman_btx]

Yes indeed!!

[prestonowtm]

OK guys...HELP. Just blew up my 2nd P38. About 100yds out and 60-90ft up. Both planes flew great for multiple flights, set up by the book. BOTH took a port side spin dive to the ground. I mean the exact same crash. All control gone, no response from anything. Receiver is a spectrum ar636 that I use in all my warbirds, transmitter is a spectrum 8. I tested everything on the 2nd bird twice, even did a long range test that I don't normally do. I have the same receiver in a 1600 Spit that has abot 50 flights on it. Anyone have any ideas? I really love the P38 and will get another...if...I can figure out what might be going on. Never flew them hard in turns..but both crashes happened during an aileron port turn. Have had planes deadstick in but had the ability to glide in for minimal damage. These things just poof..port spin into the turf. Maybe the ESC isn't so compatible with the receiver? But the Spit hasn't had an issue...?????

[rifleman_btx]

Are you keeping your speed up? Almost sounds like a stall. The escs shouldnt have any issues.

[fhhuber]

Has the symptoms of a stall-spin from the description. Right at stall, the effect of aileron is more drag than roll. Add more aileron to try to compensate for failure to get the result desired and.. spin.

Or a "Brown Out" which would indicate the BEC is not up to supplying adequate power to the RX and servos.
Did it happen as you were pulling up the landing gear? That would add load and aggravate the issue of a marginal BEC.

[prestonowtm]

Wasn't a stall. Speed was up over half throttle so cooking along pretty well. Landing gear was up for more than a minute both times. There was literally no control response at all. The 2nd time I was even ready with a plan. I tried hitting full flaps and going to 100% throw...nothing. Couldn't even hear the props and those things are a little noisy. Maybe the spectrum receiver doesn't get enough power from the BEC? The esc just says 60amp ubec...if that's the issue maybe an esc with a 10 amp bec? Never had this issue so I am just flapping in the wind here.

[fhhuber]

The addition of saying you lost the sound of the motors operating points to RX and/or ESC shutdown.

Another failure mode is an ESC overheat.
Some ESCs will have a thermal protection to try to prevent them catching on fire from overload. The smart way to do the thermal protection is to kill the throttle section but leave the BEC section operating because reduces speed will reduce servo load. But I've seen some that kill the BEC section too, shutting everything off.
Without a thermal protection, an overload "lets the magic smoke out" (sometimes with flames)

Sudden loss of throttle can result in the stall-spin scenario due to sudden loss of airspeed. Especially if one shuts down before the other leaving you with asymetric thrust.
High wing side in a bank being the last to shut off is worst case, as that invariably whips the plane around. (left motor dies first while in a left turn, you'd better be very high even if servos still respond.)

If you are entering a stall, adding up elevator and flaps just makes it worse. Flaps kill speed and elevator delays the nose coming down which will ensure a spin.
Flaps ALREADY down before the stall, tends to make the stall go straight ahead instead of dropping a wing... if you were level.

Loss of one motor on a twin:
Do not pull up.
Reduce power, get the nose down.
Get it leveled out then slowly apply power and compensate with rudder (if the other motor doesn't restart)
If both operate at lower power, don't go higher power than needed to maintain altitude, bring it around and land.
Occasionally one ESC's LVC is set higher than the other. (among several other ways to end up "single engine out" with an electric twin)

Worst case single engine out is you are in a bank and the motor on the low wing stops. That can cause an immediate 90 deg turn and point the nose straight down.

[wallacems]

Has anyone had a problem with the clevis completely coming off on the flightline P38 Ailerons? and if so, what did you do to fix it? I glued it back and hoping that should be the end of it. It is like a plastic clevis that sits in a recessed plastic mount. Not sure if it snaps in or just slides in there but was worried about it coming off in flight so I glued it.

[wallacems]

Has any one had any problems with the clevis on the ailerons coming off on the flightline P38?

[Bull]

I am building a Motion Rc B 24 liberator and want to install bomb doors to make a candy drop for airshows. Any have any information or 3 d printing information.

[Ole-Timer]

I am building a Motion Rc B 24 liberator and want to install bomb doors to make a candy drop for airshows. Any have any information or 3 d printing information.

Welcome aboard Bull

There is a B-24 board further down the list and I’m sure those folks will help you out.

[OV10]

I am building a Motion Rc B 24 liberator and want to install bomb doors to make a candy drop for airshows. Any have any information or 3 d printing information.

You'll most like have a better shot of getting help/assistamce to your question if you post in the more appropriate thread. ;)

https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc-airplanes/propeller-airplanes/104726-official-flightline-rc-2000mm-b-24d-j-liberator-thread

[Ole-Timer]

Has anyone had a problem with the clevis completely coming off on the flightline P38 Ailerons? and if so, what did you do to fix it? I glued it back and hoping that should be the end of it. It is like a plastic clevis that sits in a recessed plastic mount. Not sure if it snaps in or just slides in there but was worried about it coming off in flight so I glued it.

Hi Wallace,

I think your referring to the control horn that is attached to the aileron. I’ve never had any issues on the P-38 but have on other foam models. I’d probably just make sure it’s clean and glue it back on with epoxy.

[prestonowtm]

Anyone have issues with the rudder servo's? Have about 15 flights on the new P38 and today it was a fight to get it down in one Pc. The left rudder servo is flipping all over the place...the blue box maybe? I have not cracked into it as yet..just wondering if anyone else has had this issue and found the fix

[rifleman_btx]

Not with the rudders, but with the ailerons, turned out to be a loose connector on the multi connector to the outer wing, so i do feel like it could be the blue box. If you have one pull the rudders out of the blue box and run a y directly to the reciever, you may have to hook the nose gear up to an open channel if you have one and mix it to the rudder. If it turns out to be the box it would be the quickest, easiest fix.

[prestonowtm]

Hmmm...think I will dig in and run everything direct...Thanks Sgt. Will let you know if that was the fix.

[prestonowtm]

Well...it's not the blue box. Put a new one in it I had sitting around and it still twitches all over the place. Will try a different receiver next in hopes it's not the servo..changing that one out looks like a pain

[rifleman_btx]

Crap, i doubt its the reciever, but i will hope that it is so you dont have to dig out the servo. But i fear that will be the case:(

[Pheonix]

I reading these for suggestions since I have not flown mine yet.