Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread

[prestonowtm]

It was the servo. And it was the EASIEST servo replacement I have ever done! Once you pull it out of the rudder the connector is about 3 inches in...pull on the wire a little, unplug, plug new one in..stuff wires back into body, glue, away you go. Freaking awesome

[rifleman_btx]

Good deal! Things you learn about these planes keep getting better and better all the time

[prestonowtm]

Has anyone done any brake mods on these Flightline planes? Just got the ME262..and it comes in hot enough I run out of driveway. Would love to find brakes for the P-38 without spending 200 bucks

[xviper]

How short of a runway do you have? I've got both of those planes and flying off a grass runway and landing with full flaps, the planes slow down very well and the roll is quite short to stop. The cheap way to add "brakes" is to make the wheels spin with more friction by adding some tiny little donuts made out of fuel tubing to one side of the wheel axles. Both planes have enough power to get off the ground easily even with wheels that don't turn freely.

[Mrdronenut]

Hello y'all. I just pulled the trigger on one tonight. It was the"scratch and dent"on MRC. Missing the "wing wiring connector board"or something to the such. Any idea what that is? In the post,it says to run servo wiring extensions.
Hey Alpha or Aros. How about explaining what is missing(in hillbilly)lol,and what I need to do. Thanks in advance

[Mrdronenut]

This is what I'm taking about.

[xviper]

Hello y'all. I just pulled the trigger on one tonight. It was the"scratch and dent"on MRC. Missing the "wing wiring connector board"or something to the such. Any idea what that is? In the post,it says to run servo wiring extensions.
Hey Alpha or Aros. How about explaining what is missing(in hillbilly)lol,and what I need to do. Thanks in advance

The second sentence in your attachment tells it all. It seems to me that what's missing is something that never came with the plane as a stock item. It was something that was added on after and it didn't work. A wiring connector board makes it possible to just push the wingtip on without having to connect up the individual plugs. It's like the "pins and sockets" that are stock on many of the current models of planes. How this plane came as stock was with the plug ends sticking out of the wingtips (3 per side - 1 AIL, 1 Flap, 1 light). One the main wing side, there were the corresponding ends that the tips plugs plug into. They were basically long extension cords that run from the open ends of the main wing section to the interior where they plugged into the "integrated circuit module". You can see this on page 8 and 11 of the manual, which you can download from the product support page. The only thing missing are the light extensions, which are 2 conductor wires. You just have to run those into the main wing section BEFORE installing the engine nacelles. Somehow, when the ribbon cables were added, the stock extensions got lost. You may have to get some more and lay them in. That's about as "hillbilly" as I can get. You'll know better once you see the plane to know exactly what is required and how long the extensions need to be.

[Mrdronenut]

The second sentence in your attachment tells it all. It seems to me that what's missing is something that never came with the plane as a stock item. It was something that was added on after and it didn't work. A wiring connector board makes it possible to just push the wingtip on without having to connect up the individual plugs. It's like the "pins and sockets" that are stock on many of the current models of planes. How this plane came as stock was with the plug ends sticking out of the wingtips (3 per side - 1 AIL, 1 Flap, 1 light). One the main wing side, there were the corresponding ends that the tips plugs plug into. They were basically long extension cords that run from the open ends of the main wing section to the interior where they plugged into the "integrated circuit module". You can see this on page 8 and 11 of the manual, which you can download from the product support page. The only thing missing are the light extensions, which are 2 conductor wires. You just have to run those into the main wing section BEFORE installing the engine nacelles. Somehow, when the ribbon cables were added, the stock extensions got lost. You may have to get some more and lay them in. That's about as "hillbilly" as I can get. You'll know better once you see the plane to know exactly what is required and how long the extensions need to be.

Oh. Got it. While reading this thread,around page 97-99,this mod was mentioned. Thanks so look much for clearing this up. From what I gather,it's like the 2000mm LX model B-25 that I had. Stuffing the wires was required on it also.
Y'all have been helpful on this thread,and I can't thank everyone enough.
I'll have mine,hopefully by the weekend,and the weather is bad here in South Carolina,so I'll have some time to get it right.

[xviper]

Oh. Got it. While reading this thread,around page 97-99,this mod was mentioned. Thanks so look much for clearing this up. From what I gather,it's like the 2000mm LX model B-25 that I had. Stuffing the wires was required on it also.
Y'all have been helpful on this thread,and I can't thank everyone enough.
I'll have mine,hopefully by the weekend,and the weather is bad here in South Carolina,so I'll have some time to get it right.

Take your time with it. It'll all become more clear once you get it in your hands. I do recall all those wires were a big rat's nest and I guess that's why some people elected to go with something a bit more "tidy". The biggest problem is keeping them labeled and trying to keep them in the troughs while you try to assemble the nacelles. They tend to fall all over the place.

[prestonowtm]

How short of a runway do you have? I've got both of those planes and flying off a grass runway and landing with full flaps, the planes slow down very well and the roll is quite short to stop. The cheap way to add "brakes" is to make the wheels spin with more friction by adding some tiny little donuts made out of fuel tubing to one side of the wheel axles. Both planes have enough power to get off the ground easily even with wheels that don't turn freely.

I have a pretty long runway. I use my asphalt driveway and have about 150ft of nice path. The issue is it's only about 7 1/2 ft wide and if there is a cross wind things get squirrelly quick with hedge rows on both sides. The larger planes are easy but still have a long roll out..these big EDF's though..man..cruisin' down the driveway at 60mph they run out of room quick.

[xviper]

7.5 feet wide is pretty narrow. You have to really hone your skills.

[prestonowtm]

7.5 feet wide is pretty narrow. You have to really hone your skills.

I have got pretty good at it over the years..some of these faster planes are a big challenge though when they have to come in hot. It took a lot of practice to keep the elevator down once on the ground. That helps. I am thinking brakes would be great if I can just get more down force on the front wheel I could have more control. The F7F is great and so are the P51's and the Jug, but the P38 is light as hell on the front wheel until it gets slowed way down and so is the ME262. I looked into some electric brakes but all they do is lock up the front tire. Dubro has a brake out there but you have to put their wheels on for it to work and I am not partial to those. I like the Dave Browns and I never change out Flightlines tires, the stock ones they use have good grip on asphalt.

[Mrdronenut]

I have a set of brakes on my "no longer with us"LX 2000mm B-25.When my P-38 gets here ,with upgraded gear,I'll see if I can get it to adapt.

[TiredIronGRB]

I have a set of brakes on my "no longer with us"LX 2000mm B-25.When my P-38 gets here ,with upgraded gear,I'll see if I can get it to adapt.

Those are 4" tires, too large for the P-38...I have a set and already tried:Straight-Face:

[wallacems]

Hello everyone. I have the Flightline P-38 and I have had significant issues with the balancing of the props. I cannot keep it from vibrating the engine mount screws out from the firewall. I have tried bigger screws and washer/split washers to try and keep it secure, but to no avail. I was wondering if anyone has had any luck trying a different aluminum type spinner with a solid three bladed prop maybe? Anyone? if you have do you have some specifics and pics. I believe an aluminum spinner with a solid prop that can be balanced better would clear these issues up. Thanks for any help in advance.

[xviper]

Hello everyone. I have the Flightline P-38 and I have had significant issues with the balancing of the props. I cannot keep it from vibrating the engine mount screws out from the firewall. I have tried bigger screws and washer/split washers to try and keep it secure, but to no avail. I was wondering if anyone has had any luck trying a different aluminum type spinner with a solid three bladed prop maybe? Anyone? if you have do you have some specifics and pics. I believe an aluminum spinner with a solid prop that can be balanced better would clear these issues up. Thanks for any help in advance.

How are you balancing them? I've never had any problems balancing any 3 or 4 blade prop (with separate blades).

[DarthSyd]

Hi Everyone,

Just maidened my Pacific Silver P-38 today; what a great looking plane! Wondering how many of you are using the "Sport Power Set", 2 blade props and upgraded motors. Is there much of an increase in performance, and is it worth the money?

Looking forward to getting some more flights up on this bird.

Thanks in advance.

[Ole-Timer]

I never flew mine on the stock 3 blades. I installed the upgraded motors n props in the initial build. It is without a doubt the fastest FlightLine warbird I own. When I feel the need for speed, it’s the bird I fly, much more like flying an EDF than a warbird as the two blade props do not slow it down when throttle is reduced. I also have a long narrow aging paved runway, about 10 foot across by 250 foot long. Landings routinely eat up 150 foot on the roll out.

On all my FL three blade props, before the unit is assembled, each blade is first cleaned of flash around the edges, then each is weighed on a jeweler scale. All blades are then sanded to lighten them to match the lightest blade. That way the rotating mass of the unit is a match. I then assemble it and use it as is and this has never caused any issues. All my FL warbird props are finished that way, 2 Spitfires, Tigercat, and the massive 18 inch F4U-1 Birdcage prop. No vibration on any of them, smooth as silk. I’ve always followed APC’s recommendations in balancing electric props.

Balancing Propellers

A significant amount of effort is put into making sure that all APC propellers are as close to being perfectly balanced as possible before they are shipped. Therefore, it is unlikely that a balance correction will be required. The following procedure should be used to check the balance of a propeller.

We recommend that the drilled hole not be used for checking balance since it is sometimes not as straight as it should be. Instead the user should check the balance of all APC propellers using the precision molded hole at the back side of the hub (see illustration below). The tapered part of the balance cone should be used on this side. A pin that is smaller than the through hole should be used to prevent any interference with the drilled hole. Finally, a washer (or the flat end of the balance cone) should be used to secure the propeller at the forward face of the hub. Similarly to the way it mounts to the motor.



If your propeller requires a balance correction, we recommend that material be removed from the upper and lower surfaces at the tip of the heavy blade. A piece of clear tape can also be added to the light blade, recommended for electric applications only.

[wallacems]

I never flew mine on the stock 3 blades. I installed the upgraded motors n props in the initial build. It is without a doubt the fastest FlightLine warbird I own. When I feel the need for speed, it’s the bird I fly, much more like flying an EDF than a warbird as the two blade props do not slow it down when throttle is reduced. I also have a long narrow aging paved runway, about 10 foot across by 250 foot long. Landings routinely eat up 150 foot on the roll out.

On all my FL three blade props, before the unit is assembled, each blade is first cleaned of flash around the edges, then each is weighed on a jeweler scale. All blades are then sanded to lighten them to match the lightest blade. That way the rotating mass of the unit is a match. I then assemble it and use it as is and this has never caused any issues. All my FL warbird props are finished that way, 2 Spitfires, Tigercat, and the massive 18 inch F4U-1 Birdcage prop. No vibration on any of them, smooth as silk. I’ve always followed APC’s recommendations in balancing electric props.

Balancing Propellers

A significant amount of effort is put into making sure that all APC propellers are as close to being perfectly balanced as possible before they are shipped. Therefore, it is unlikely that a balance correction will be required. The following procedure should be used to check the balance of a propeller.

We recommend that the drilled hole not be used for checking balance since it is sometimes not as straight as it should be. Instead the user should check the balance of all APC propellers using the precision molded hole at the back side of the hub (see illustration below). The tapered part of the balance cone should be used on this side. A pin that is smaller than the through hole should be used to prevent any interference with the drilled hole. Finally, a washer (or the flat end of the balance cone) should be used to secure the propeller at the forward face of the hub. Similarly to the way it mounts to the motor.



If your propeller requires a balance correction, we recommend that material be removed from the upper and lower surfaces at the tip of the heavy blade. A piece of clear tape can also be added to the light blade, recommended for electric applications only.

Thanks, this was super helpful. I will try to buy a scale to measure each blade. I am not sure the backplate is perfect either. I saw someone also bought the MAS prop and has a different spinner to go with it. I am also looking at that option.

[xviper]

Thanks, this was super helpful. I will try to buy a scale to measure each blade. I am not sure the backplate is perfect either.

You can balance the assembled backplate by itself by using a blob of hot glue on the back side where it won't interfere with the prop shaft plate. If it has a spinner, include it if you can or try to balance it by itself. Mark all screws for where they go and the spinner for how it fits onto the backplate. Since the blades have been weighed and adjusted to all weigh the same, when installed onto the balanced holder assembly, it should all be balanced.