It was the servo. And it was the EASIEST servo replacement I have ever done! Once you pull it out of the rudder the connector is about 3 inches in...pull on the wire a little, unplug, plug new one in..stuff wires back into body, glue, away you go. Freaking awesome
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How short of a runway do you have? I've got both of those planes and flying off a grass runway and landing with full flaps, the planes slow down very well and the roll is quite short to stop. The cheap way to add "brakes" is to make the wheels spin with more friction by adding some tiny little donuts made out of fuel tubing to one side of the wheel axles. Both planes have enough power to get off the ground easily even with wheels that don't turn freely.
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Hello y'all. I just pulled the trigger on one tonight. It was the"scratch and dent"on MRC. Missing the "wing wiring connector board"or something to the such. Any idea what that is? In the post,it says to run servo wiring extensions.
Hey Alpha or Aros. How about explaining what is missing(in hillbilly)lol,and what I need to do. Thanks in advance
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Originally posted by Mrdronenut View PostHello y'all. I just pulled the trigger on one tonight. It was the"scratch and dent"on MRC. Missing the "wing wiring connector board"or something to the such. Any idea what that is? In the post,it says to run servo wiring extensions.
Hey Alpha or Aros. How about explaining what is missing(in hillbilly)lol,and what I need to do. Thanks in advance
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Originally posted by xviper View PostThe second sentence in your attachment tells it all. It seems to me that what's missing is something that never came with the plane as a stock item. It was something that was added on after and it didn't work. A wiring connector board makes it possible to just push the wingtip on without having to connect up the individual plugs. It's like the "pins and sockets" that are stock on many of the current models of planes. How this plane came as stock was with the plug ends sticking out of the wingtips (3 per side - 1 AIL, 1 Flap, 1 light). One the main wing side, there were the corresponding ends that the tips plugs plug into. They were basically long extension cords that run from the open ends of the main wing section to the interior where they plugged into the "integrated circuit module". You can see this on page 8 and 11 of the manual, which you can download from the product support page. The only thing missing are the light extensions, which are 2 conductor wires. You just have to run those into the main wing section BEFORE installing the engine nacelles. Somehow, when the ribbon cables were added, the stock extensions got lost. You may have to get some more and lay them in. That's about as "hillbilly" as I can get. You'll know better once you see the plane to know exactly what is required and how long the extensions need to be.
Y'all have been helpful on this thread,and I can't thank everyone enough.
I'll have mine,hopefully by the weekend,and the weather is bad here in South Carolina,so I'll have some time to get it right.
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Originally posted by Mrdronenut View Post
Oh. Got it. While reading this thread,around page 97-99,this mod was mentioned. Thanks so look much for clearing this up. From what I gather,it's like the 2000mm LX model B-25 that I had. Stuffing the wires was required on it also.
Y'all have been helpful on this thread,and I can't thank everyone enough.
I'll have mine,hopefully by the weekend,and the weather is bad here in South Carolina,so I'll have some time to get it right.
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Originally posted by xviper View PostHow short of a runway do you have? I've got both of those planes and flying off a grass runway and landing with full flaps, the planes slow down very well and the roll is quite short to stop. The cheap way to add "brakes" is to make the wheels spin with more friction by adding some tiny little donuts made out of fuel tubing to one side of the wheel axles. Both planes have enough power to get off the ground easily even with wheels that don't turn freely.
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Originally posted by xviper View Post7.5 feet wide is pretty narrow. You have to really hone your skills.
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Originally posted by Mrdronenut View PostI have a set of brakes on my "no longer with us"LX 2000mm B-25.When my P-38 gets here ,with upgraded gear,I'll see if I can get it to adapt.
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Hello everyone. I have the Flightline P-38 and I have had significant issues with the balancing of the props. I cannot keep it from vibrating the engine mount screws out from the firewall. I have tried bigger screws and washer/split washers to try and keep it secure, but to no avail. I was wondering if anyone has had any luck trying a different aluminum type spinner with a solid three bladed prop maybe? Anyone? if you have do you have some specifics and pics. I believe an aluminum spinner with a solid prop that can be balanced better would clear these issues up. Thanks for any help in advance.
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Originally posted by wallacems View PostHello everyone. I have the Flightline P-38 and I have had significant issues with the balancing of the props. I cannot keep it from vibrating the engine mount screws out from the firewall. I have tried bigger screws and washer/split washers to try and keep it secure, but to no avail. I was wondering if anyone has had any luck trying a different aluminum type spinner with a solid three bladed prop maybe? Anyone? if you have do you have some specifics and pics. I believe an aluminum spinner with a solid prop that can be balanced better would clear these issues up. Thanks for any help in advance.
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Hi Everyone,
Just maidened my Pacific Silver P-38 today; what a great looking plane! Wondering how many of you are using the "Sport Power Set", 2 blade props and upgraded motors. Is there much of an increase in performance, and is it worth the money?
Looking forward to getting some more flights up on this bird.
Thanks in advance.
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I never flew mine on the stock 3 blades. I installed the upgraded motors n props in the initial build. It is without a doubt the fastest FlightLine warbird I own. When I feel the need for speed, it’s the bird I fly, much more like flying an EDF than a warbird as the two blade props do not slow it down when throttle is reduced. I also have a long narrow aging paved runway, about 10 foot across by 250 foot long. Landings routinely eat up 150 foot on the roll out.
On all my FL three blade props, before the unit is assembled, each blade is first cleaned of flash around the edges, then each is weighed on a jeweler scale. All blades are then sanded to lighten them to match the lightest blade. That way the rotating mass of the unit is a match. I then assemble it and use it as is and this has never caused any issues. All my FL warbird props are finished that way, 2 Spitfires, Tigercat, and the massive 18 inch F4U-1 Birdcage prop. No vibration on any of them, smooth as silk. I’ve always followed APC’s recommendations in balancing electric props.
Balancing Propellers
A significant amount of effort is put into making sure that all APC propellers are as close to being perfectly balanced as possible before they are shipped. Therefore, it is unlikely that a balance correction will be required. The following procedure should be used to check the balance of a propeller.
We recommend that the drilled hole not be used for checking balance since it is sometimes not as straight as it should be. Instead the user should check the balance of all APC propellers using the precision molded hole at the back side of the hub (see illustration below). The tapered part of the balance cone should be used on this side. A pin that is smaller than the through hole should be used to prevent any interference with the drilled hole. Finally, a washer (or the flat end of the balance cone) should be used to secure the propeller at the forward face of the hub. Similarly to the way it mounts to the motor.
If your propeller requires a balance correction, we recommend that material be removed from the upper and lower surfaces at the tip of the heavy blade. A piece of clear tape can also be added to the light blade, recommended for electric applications only.
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Originally posted by Ole-Timer View PostI never flew mine on the stock 3 blades. I installed the upgraded motors n props in the initial build. It is without a doubt the fastest FlightLine warbird I own. When I feel the need for speed, it’s the bird I fly, much more like flying an EDF than a warbird as the two blade props do not slow it down when throttle is reduced. I also have a long narrow aging paved runway, about 10 foot across by 250 foot long. Landings routinely eat up 150 foot on the roll out.
On all my FL three blade props, before the unit is assembled, each blade is first cleaned of flash around the edges, then each is weighed on a jeweler scale. All blades are then sanded to lighten them to match the lightest blade. That way the rotating mass of the unit is a match. I then assemble it and use it as is and this has never caused any issues. All my FL warbird props are finished that way, 2 Spitfires, Tigercat, and the massive 18 inch F4U-1 Birdcage prop. No vibration on any of them, smooth as silk. I’ve always followed APC’s recommendations in balancing electric props.
Balancing Propellers
A significant amount of effort is put into making sure that all APC propellers are as close to being perfectly balanced as possible before they are shipped. Therefore, it is unlikely that a balance correction will be required. The following procedure should be used to check the balance of a propeller.
We recommend that the drilled hole not be used for checking balance since it is sometimes not as straight as it should be. Instead the user should check the balance of all APC propellers using the precision molded hole at the back side of the hub (see illustration below). The tapered part of the balance cone should be used on this side. A pin that is smaller than the through hole should be used to prevent any interference with the drilled hole. Finally, a washer (or the flat end of the balance cone) should be used to secure the propeller at the forward face of the hub. Similarly to the way it mounts to the motor.
If your propeller requires a balance correction, we recommend that material be removed from the upper and lower surfaces at the tip of the heavy blade. A piece of clear tape can also be added to the light blade, recommended for electric applications only.
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Originally posted by wallacems View Post
Thanks, this was super helpful. I will try to buy a scale to measure each blade. I am not sure the backplate is perfect either.
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