Has anyone installed the optional antenna wire set? Have any photos to share?
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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm P-38 Lightning Thread
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Hi Zorkahn, welcome to Hobbysquawk!
I don't have photos of the optional antenna wire set, but I can show you what I did with my P-38, which looks good, is easily removable without much visual impact to the model, and requires less than five minutes to execute. I bought the elastic wire from the FMS 1400mm Pitts' Spare Parts Page and did the following:
1) Tie three overhand knots on one end, using a dab of hot glue to hold them together a form a compact "ball".
2) Slice 3mm into the top of the P-38's vertical stabilizers, along the outside panel line (see my picture)
3) Press the knot into the hinge between the rudder and the vertical stabilizer, and run the wire forward along the panel line, pressing it into your cut so the wire is concealed.
4) The wire will exit at the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer.
5) Run it to your canopy, and with a hobby knife poke a small hole into the plastic canopy.
6) Use a paperclip to form a loop around the wire on one end, and a small hook on the other end.
7) Thread the elastic wire through the loop, and push the hook side into the hole in the plastic canopy.
8) Repeat Step 1 and Step 2 on the other vertical stabilizer.
9) Pull back on the elastic wire to tighten it, and tie another ball of knots.
10) Repeat Step 3.
Done.
To remove the canopy, simply unhitch the hook to release the elastic wire. Tension between the knot against the rudder hinge keeps the wire securely docked without needing any glue, so it is easily reversible by prying the wire out of the vertical stablizer's panel line cut.
Any elastic wire will do. I don't use the springs in this kit, just the elastic wire.
At Motion RC we carry the largest selection of electric and gas powered radio control (RC) planes, boats, buggies, cars, helicopters, tanks, trucks, and much more. We also offer a huge selection of lipo batteries, chargers, ESCs, gas engines, motors, radios, and servos. Shop our lowest prices with free shipping.
At Motion RC we carry the largest selection of electric and gas powered radio control (RC) planes, boats, buggies, cars, helicopters, tanks, trucks, and much more. We also offer a huge selection of lipo batteries, chargers, ESCs, gas engines, motors, radios, and servos. Shop our lowest prices with free shipping.
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Alpha's antenna looks better and cleaner than what I did. Photos shows materials I used and how it came out on my 38.
I used a spring from a ball point pen to keep the wire taunt. A fishing swivel with hook keeper removed leaving hook open to easily connect and disconnect. Glued eye pins in vert stabs and one through top of canopy into pilot seat back.
Eddie4 Photos
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Originally posted by Twowingtj View PostJust about finished with Devil's Angels Squadron #133, Irish Angel. Big Thanks to Callie Graphics for the unique items for this bird. Now it's just waiting for spring......
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Originally posted by Twowingtj View PostJust about finished with Devil's Angels Squadron #133, Irish Angel. Big Thanks to Callie Graphics for the unique items for this bird. Now it's just waiting for spring......My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Twowingtj View PostJust about finished with Devil's Angels Squadron #133, Irish Angel. Big Thanks to Callie Graphics for the unique items for this bird. Now it's just waiting for spring......
Ummmmmm.....................Since I have no fellow pilots at my club that have the warbird fever like you do it looks like you're gonna have to give me an unlimited visitors pass to your field ;) Nice job on the Lightning too!!!Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190
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Originally posted by OV10 View Post
TJ,
Ummmmmm.....................Since I have no fellow pilots at my club that have the warbird fever like you do it looks like you're gonna have to give me an unlimited visitors pass to your field ;) Nice job on the Lightning too!!!
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View Post
I decided to try your CG which placed my batteries about 1.5" forward from their old mark. Flew her and she was much better. Nose heavy but as we all know warbirds prefer nose heavy. I thought I had the CG dialed and I had flights where she flew terrific but admittedly pushing the batteries forward to match your CG location she was much better behaved with none of the strangeness I was reporting exhibited. Next flight out of curiosity I am going to split the difference between my old CG setting and yours and see what I think.
I've also been flying with the tanks on just because I like the looks even though I know I could benefit from less drag flying clean. Always compromise with me when it comes to scale accessories. I'm one of those who refuses to put a 2 blade on a warbird even though I know it's more efficient with improved performance. I want to fly my warbirds what the real deal flew. 3 or 4 blades only! :Drc flyin addict
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I did fly with the CG a bit aft from the forward mark mentioned above and I found her exhibiting the same wonky characteristics so I am going to stick with that batteries pushed forward mark. It seems to be the sweet spot for my bird, and who am I to argue? ;)My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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You and me both! Come on flying season! I braved the frigid temps a few weeks ago but I always had to cut my flights short by about half or more because my fingers were literally going numb! When you can no longer feel your fingers it might be a good idea to land. :pMy YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbreda
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostYou and me both! Come on flying season! I braved the frigid temps a few weeks ago but I always had to cut my flights short by about half or more because my fingers were literally going numb! When you can no longer feel your fingers it might be a good idea to land. :p
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Originally posted by Aros.MotionRC View PostI did fly with the CG a bit aft from the forward mark mentioned above and I found her exhibiting the same wonky characteristics so I am going to stick with that batteries pushed forward mark. It seems to be the sweet spot for my bird, and who am I to argue? ;)
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Well, started building the P-38 and found the nose gear door servo is bad. It chatters when starting everything up on the airplane. The servo still opens the gear door and closes it but not correctly. The servo over rotates when opening and then the nose gear door servo arm interferes with the nose gear coming down. When retracting the nose gear because the nose gear door servo arm over rotates and closes the door slightly, the nose gear catches on the gear door. Replacing the nose gear door servo does not look like it will be any fun. I have a ticket into Motion RC and should get a response back Monday.
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Be sure it's not the control board instead of the servo. I repainted one of my Tigercats and was sloppy in keeping the fuselage control board protected and when I hooked everything up three of the flap servos chattered and didn't center or move properly and one didn't even work. I thought I had gotten too much paint on the servo's themselves and was about to order 4 all new servos but after I thought about it that didn't make sense. So, I did a little trouble shooting and bypassed the control board with a "Y" connector straight to the receivers and all the flap servos work like they should. All I had to do was replace the fuselage control board.
So, you may want to check if your control board has junk on the the pins or is itself bad by bypassing the board before ordering a new servo.
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