Has anyone installed the optional antenna wire set? Have any photos to share?
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Hi Zorkahn, welcome to Hobbysquawk!
I don't have photos of the optional antenna wire set, but I can show you what I did with my P-38, which looks good, is easily removable without much visual impact to the model, and requires less than five minutes to execute. I bought the elastic wire from the FMS 1400mm Pitts' Spare Parts Page and did the following:
1) Tie three overhand knots on one end, using a dab of hot glue to hold them together a form a compact "ball".
2) Slice 3mm into the top of the P-38's vertical stabilizers, along the outside panel line (see my picture)
3) Press the knot into the hinge between the rudder and the vertical stabilizer, and run the wire forward along the panel line, pressing it into your cut so the wire is concealed.
4) The wire will exit at the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer.
5) Run it to your canopy, and with a hobby knife poke a small hole into the plastic canopy.
6) Use a paperclip to form a loop around the wire on one end, and a small hook on the other end.
7) Thread the elastic wire through the loop, and push the hook side into the hole in the plastic canopy.
8) Repeat Step 1 and Step 2 on the other vertical stabilizer.
9) Pull back on the elastic wire to tighten it, and tie another ball of knots.
10) Repeat Step 3.
Done.
To remove the canopy, simply unhitch the hook to release the elastic wire. Tension between the knot against the rudder hinge keeps the wire securely docked without needing any glue, so it is easily reversible by prying the wire out of the vertical stablizer's panel line cut.
Any elastic wire will do. I don't use the springs in this kit, just the elastic wire.
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Alpha's antenna looks better and cleaner than what I did. Photos shows materials I used and how it came out on my 38.
I used a spring from a ball point pen to keep the wire taunt. A fishing swivel with hook keeper removed leaving hook open to easily connect and disconnect. Glued eye pins in vert stabs and one through top of canopy into pilot seat back.
EddieComment
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Just about finished with Devil's Angels Squadron #133, Irish Angel. Big Thanks to Callie Graphics for the unique items for this bird. Now it's just waiting for spring......Comment
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Warbird Charlie
HSD Skyraider FlightLine OV-10 FMS 1400: P-40B, P-51, F4U, F6F, T-28, P-40E, Pitts, 1700 F4U & F7F, FOX glider Freewing A-6, T-33, P-51 Dynam ME-262, Waco TF Giant P-47; ESM F7F-3 LX PBJ-1 EFL CZ T-28, C-150, 1500 P-51 & FW-190Comment
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Charlie, I don't have warbird fever to the level anywhere close to you. They are becoming a bigger part of my hanger though. It's always been my philosophy, that if it's worth a slot in the hanger, it's worth having it look good. I have a feeling we'll get a lot of flying in together this summer. If we get another warm weather break in Feb, I'll give you a call.Comment
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I did fly with the CG a bit aft from the forward mark mentioned above and I found her exhibiting the same wonky characteristics so I am going to stick with that batteries pushed forward mark. It seems to be the sweet spot for my bird, and who am I to argue? ;)My YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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Tks Aros, always helps to see whats working for everyone. Now that I have the correct springs on the main gear looking forward to getting more stick time on this one, just need some more spring like weather !rc flyin addictComment
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You and me both! Come on flying season! I braved the frigid temps a few weeks ago but I always had to cut my flights short by about half or more because my fingers were literally going numb! When you can no longer feel your fingers it might be a good idea to land. :pMy YouTube RC videos:
https://www.youtube.com/@toddbredaComment
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Way to fight the weather, I may nudge my battery just a little aft and see how it goes, she is up against the firewall so maybe just a few mm's back. I use gloves like these in the winter, helps a bit and keeps your finger tips on the sticks. Forecast here looking bleak for a while.rc flyin addictComment
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Well, started building the P-38 and found the nose gear door servo is bad. It chatters when starting everything up on the airplane. The servo still opens the gear door and closes it but not correctly. The servo over rotates when opening and then the nose gear door servo arm interferes with the nose gear coming down. When retracting the nose gear because the nose gear door servo arm over rotates and closes the door slightly, the nose gear catches on the gear door. Replacing the nose gear door servo does not look like it will be any fun. I have a ticket into Motion RC and should get a response back Monday.Comment
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Be sure it's not the control board instead of the servo. I repainted one of my Tigercats and was sloppy in keeping the fuselage control board protected and when I hooked everything up three of the flap servos chattered and didn't center or move properly and one didn't even work. I thought I had gotten too much paint on the servo's themselves and was about to order 4 all new servos but after I thought about it that didn't make sense. So, I did a little trouble shooting and bypassed the control board with a "Y" connector straight to the receivers and all the flap servos work like they should. All I had to do was replace the fuselage control board.
So, you may want to check if your control board has junk on the the pins or is itself bad by bypassing the board before ordering a new servo.Comment
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