i hope in the future to see a white zero with that surface printing
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Official Black Horse Spitfire 2000mm ARF Discussion Thread
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Post 29 shows the exterior diameter of the strut, but what I need to know is the diameter of the pin coming out of the retract unit, that the strut bolts on to. It looks like there are 3 grub screws that hold it on to the pin.Originally posted by downwind3zero View Post
See post #29. I plan on doing the same.
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See post #29. I plan on doing the same.Originally posted by Cfreuen20 View Post
Do you happen to know the diameter of the pin that inserts into the strut? I'm ditching the air retracts for a set of JP electrics.
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Thank you!Originally posted by sfmadmax View Post
Approx 135CM inside diameter of the wheel wheel, I imagine that's what you're looking for.
Distance from inner wheel well to the Strut End of the casing is also approx 9 inches
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Hey Jasmiller,Originally posted by jasmiller View PostWhen I use Robart style hinges for my airplanes I always put a little petroleum jelly on the hinge and use 20- 30 minute epoxy to secure the hinge. The petroleum jelly keeps the hinge from becoming glued shut if some of the epoxy seeps into the area. This way all my hinges remain free of glue. The aileron and flap attachments can be screwed in place. I went a step further and used hysol to secure chemically and then screwed in place as a mechanical attachment. Redundancy if you will to add strength to hold the surfaces in place. I attached a picture of the pre installed wing bolt as seen thru the top of the fuselage.
This is my first blackhorse build!
How did you know the distance to measure and mark where the flap/aileron attachments go for the horns. I'm looking at your pics and soft marked mine. But want to ensure that I'm getting it right and understand how you aligned them, etc.
Did you install the servo then the control rod and see where it would line up on the aileron?
I'm assuming that's how you got there!
-Thanks
S.
**Update**
I just looked back at your earlier post, you did the servo installation first.. so there i think lies my answer :P I don't have my servos yet, so I'll just glue the hinges tonight. Just so I know, there are 2 types of hinges, Long ones (67mm ?) and Short ones (44mm) . The long ones stick out considerably more than the short ones.. As your pics you used the shorter hinges for Ailerons. (44mm)
I took a peek at the fairchild manual and the same appears to apply, 44mm for ailerons and 67mm for the elevator and rudder
Where are the longer ones used?
Ta....
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Approx 135CM inside diameter of the wheel wheel, I imagine that's what you're looking for.Originally posted by downwind3zero View PostLooking for electric retracts - can someone measure the strut insertion diameter pls? It's either that or a downandlocked conversion for me I think.
Distance from inner wheel well to the Strut End of the casing is also approx 9 inches
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Looking for electric retracts - can someone measure the strut insertion diameter pls? It's either that or a downandlocked conversion for me I think.
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I have been looking and cannot find one. I asked as well and was told not yet, should be coming soon.Originally posted by sfmadmax View Post
Thanks Jasmiller!!! Would you happen to know if the newer publication is available to download somewhere?
Granted we all have your posts as guidance and you for questions, but it makes for some good reading material when not working on the plane :)
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Thanks Jasmiller!!! Would you happen to know if the newer publication is available to download somewhere?Originally posted by jasmiller View Post
Thank You for posting. This is an older version but the order of operations should remain the same. The flap and aileron hinging has changed since this publication as well as servo mounts in the wing. Not difficult but change none the less. I built a BH Fairchild last year and the hardware is almost exactly the same as well as electronic set up. I am happy to help navigate the build if you have any questions. Happy Building!!
Granted we all have your posts as guidance and you for questions, but it makes for some good reading material when not working on the plane :)
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When I use Robart style hinges for my airplanes I always put a little petroleum jelly on the hinge and use 20- 30 minute epoxy to secure the hinge. The petroleum jelly keeps the hinge from becoming glued shut if some of the epoxy seeps into the area. This way all my hinges remain free of glue. The aileron and flap attachments can be screwed in place. I went a step further and used hysol to secure chemically and then screwed in place as a mechanical attachment. Redundancy if you will to add strength to hold the surfaces in place. I attached a picture of the pre installed wing bolt as seen thru the top of the fuselage.
- Likes 3
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Thank You for posting. This is an older version but the order of operations should remain the same. The flap and aileron hinging has changed since this publication as well as servo mounts in the wing. Not difficult but change none the less. I built a BH Fairchild last year and the hardware is almost exactly the same as well as electronic set up. I am happy to help navigate the build if you have any questions. Happy Building!!Originally posted by sfmadmax View PostReceived my box today in the mail. This plane is well worth the $$$ and is absolutely stunning.
I didn't get a manual in my box. I called Motion and spoke to one of their techs to relay them the information. After some digging around I found the manual online. I have attached it to this thread for anyone else who has the same problem.
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Received my box today in the mail. This plane is well worth the $$$ and is absolutely stunning.
I didn't get a manual in my box. I called Motion and spoke to one of their techs to relay them the information. After some digging around I found the manual online. I have attached it to this thread for anyone else who has the same problem.
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I'm in on this one! Thanks for posting pictures as you go jasmiller!
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Started on fitting the aileron & flap servos as well as hinges. All seems to fit really well. The servos hatches are pre-drilled. Just line them up and drill into the hardware once in place. I am not using the screws supplied, I like hex head screws better. As you can see I added the grommets to the servos and inserted the brass fitting. Notice the correct way to insert, I had been doing this wrong for a long time. Next I will be putting the hinges in place and attach the wing surfaces.
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She's a good looking airplane. Than You for sharing the link to your build. As the build progresses you will notice some some updated features.Originally posted by timmybeetle View Post
Building,
Keep posting some more pics,
I build also BH136 Spitfire, see my build on RCgroups link posted in previous post.
I use a DLE30, but to set my CG I needed almost 1kg lead.
So tail should be as light as possible, if I new it before I removed as much balsa,plywood from tail.....
Flying it is easy it flies almost as a trainer, it has a lot of lift.
I converted to electric retracts, using only struts and wheels from kit.
Only after some flight I had a hard landing and stock wheels broke, plastic is not that strong.
Good luck with building this beautiful plane.
grts Hans
ps I see that struts looking better quality than in my KIT
for builder jasmiller: https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/th...057#post232057
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Building,
Keep posting some more pics,
I build also BH136 Spitfire, see my build on RCgroups link posted in previous post.
I use a DLE30, but to set my CG I needed almost 1kg lead.
So tail should be as light as possible, if I new it before I removed as much balsa,plywood from tail.....
Flying it is easy it flies almost as a trainer, it has a lot of lift.
I converted to electric retracts, using only struts and wheels from kit.
Only after some flight I had a hard landing and stock wheels broke, plastic is not that strong.
Good luck with building this beautiful plane.
grts Hans
ps I see that struts looking better quality than in my KIT
for builder jasmiller: https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/th...057#post232057
- Likes 2
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