Official Black Horse Spitfire 2000mm ARF Discussion Thread

[jasmiller]

Was thinking about picking up one of these:
https://www.warbirdpilots.com/produc...lot-figure.htm

Can anyone comment on the quality?? Plus not sure if I feel safe cutting the figure in half to make him fit in the cockpit, I may just get one of the plaster busts and paint it.

I ordered one last week. Should be here today. I’ll let you know once it arrives.

[sfmadmax]

Was thinking about picking up one of these:
https://www.warbirdpilots.com/produc...lot-figure.htm

Can anyone comment on the quality?? Plus not sure if I feel safe cutting the figure in half to make him fit in the cockpit, I may just get one of the plaster busts and paint it.

[Cfreuen20]

I have a support ticket open with Motion to get the updated PDF (manual) Ticket# T820809

So don't be surprised if you don't receive the manual. If you do receive one, you will be a hero if you scanned it and uploaded it :P

I'll let you know

[sfmadmax]

Thank you, it may take some creativity to get my retracts to work with these struts but that's ok. I should receive my spitfire today, unless there is a shipping delay.

I have a support ticket open with Motion to get the updated PDF (manual) Ticket# T820809

So don't be surprised if you don't receive the manual. If you do receive one, you will be a hero if you scanned it and uploaded it :P

[Cfreuen20]

The strut 10mm (male) fits into the retract (female).

Thank you, it may take some creativity to get my retracts to work with these struts but that's ok. I should receive my spitfire today, unless there is a shipping delay.

[downwind3zero]

Do you happen to know the diameter of the pin that inserts into the strut? I'm ditching the air retracts for a set of JP electrics.

The strut 10mm (male) fits into the retract (female).

[sfmadmax]

jasmiller Thanks for the response tonight, I figured as much that the longer 67mm were for the flaps and when you mentioned you cut them to make a perfect fit inside the flap then it all made sense and came together.


Did a dry fit tonight, Like you , I cut about 2 notches off a 67mm hinge and placed those inside the flaps. I noticed that there is a little bit of precision involved if you want the flap to sit flush and perfect. So all of you perfectionists out there, make sure you do a dry fit and mark the hinges so that when they are epoxied, you don't push them too deep.

I'm completely out of 30 minute epoxy and only have 15minute. I'll wait until tomorrow to glue these after I head out to the hardware store and get some 30min. This way there is time to align and set the hinges in the flap while it's flush in the wing. As jasmiller said in the previous post, wait until you get the servo & pushrods in and figure out where the horns will go.

So, glad to be following along with jasmiller thank you for your help!! You're probably going to lap me now in progress as I move relatively slow with my builds and take my time. But glad to have reference photos to look at.

-Regards
sfmadmax

[James]

Working on flaps and tail feathers.
You will need to cut the bottom portion of the hinges that are inserted into the flap, about two lines up. The part of the hinge that is connected directly into the wing can stay the same length. Only epoxy the hinge into the flap at this time, dry-fit into the wing. Pushrod connections need to be made before permanently installing the flap to the wing.
At this time I have epoxied the hinges into the rudder and elevator, not to the horizontal or vertical stabilizers yet. You will need to run your pushrods thru and remove the covering where they exit the fuselage. Also, the elevator and flap hinges can be installed. You will need to feel around for the small slat and remove the covering with a sharp blade. Gently push with force, the hinges will go in and fit well. I used hysol to attach the hinges.

Looking great Jason! Excellent work thus far

[jasmiller]

Working on flaps and tail feathers.
You will need to cut the bottom portion of the hinges that are inserted into the flap, about two lines up. The part of the hinge that is connected directly into the wing can stay the same length. Only epoxy the hinge into the flap at this time, dry-fit into the wing. Pushrod connections need to be made before permanently installing the flap to the wing.
At this time I have epoxied the hinges into the rudder and elevator, not to the horizontal or vertical stabilizers yet. You will need to run your pushrods thru and remove the covering where they exit the fuselage. Also, the elevator and flap hinges can be installed. You will need to feel around for the small slat and remove the covering with a sharp blade. Gently push with force, the hinges will go in and fit well. I used hysol to attach the hinges.

[jasmiller]

jasmiller Did you ever see my questions in post #30?

I was looking to see if you knew the exact spots that the long 67mm hinges are supposed to be installed.

I called motionrc and opened a ticket and left a voicemail to the manager to see if we can get an updated manual ASAP.

@sfmadmax Just replied. The tail surfaces were a bit more challenging but I used the same method. I aligned the push rods and felt around the surfaces to where the control horns would align. Again using a sharp blade cut away the covering.

[jasmiller]

Hey Jasmiller,

This is my first blackhorse build!

How did you know the distance to measure and mark where the flap/aileron attachments go for the horns. I'm looking at your pics and soft marked mine. But want to ensure that I'm getting it right and understand how you aligned them, etc.
Did you install the servo then the control rod and see where it would line up on the aileron?

I'm assuming that's how you got there!

-Thanks
S.

**Update**

I just looked back at your earlier post, you did the servo installation first.. so there i think lies my answer :P I don't have my servos yet, so I'll just glue the hinges tonight. Just so I know, there are 2 types of hinges, Long ones (67mm ?) and Short ones (44mm) . The long ones stick out considerably more than the short ones.. As your pics you used the shorter hinges for Ailerons. (44mm)

I took a peek at the fairchild manual and the same appears to apply, 44mm for ailerons and 67mm for the elevator and rudder

Where are the longer ones used?

Ta....

I looked at the distance and then felt around the covering for indentations on where they might align and felt the outline. That's where i marked and used a sharp blade to cut out.

[sfmadmax]

jasmiller Did you ever see my questions in post #30?

I was looking to see if you knew the exact spots that the long 67mm hinges are supposed to be installed.

I called motionrc and opened a ticket and left a voicemail to the manager to see if we can get an updated manual ASAP.

[sfmadmax]

Personal preference. I have never liked air retracts, back in the day I usually opted for mechanical retracts over air. Now that we have good electric options, air isn't even a consideration for me. I also prefer the speed that electrics go up and down.

Again, just my take.

I do prefer the speed in which electric retracts deploy also.... hmmm now u got me thinking....

I'll probably try the pneumatic valves that robart sells that slow down the gear deploy, if it's still not to my liking i'll just chuck some electrics. I would hate to belly land this.

[jasmiller]

Stock retracts

[jasmiller]

The air retracts in this model look great. It does come with the necessary hardware but you can buy a different valve that will slow down the action either directly from Robart or Tower. I have had zero problems with air retracts. Electric are awesome and easy to install.

[Cfreuen20]

I plan on continuing the build and using the supplied pneumatic retracts. Is there a reason why people are so adverse to using them? I am wondering if it comes with valves that allow you to control the speed in which the wheels go up and down.

Personal preference. I have never liked air retracts, back in the day I usually opted for mechanical retracts over air. Now that we have good electric options, air isn't even a consideration for me. I also prefer the speed that electrics go up and down.

Again, just my take.

[downwind3zero]

Nothing wrong with air retracts - i have had many. They usually require more maintenance to keep them working perfectly. On my jets I replace all air lines every season or two, which is a lot of work but they have not failed me. I have seen several larger scale air retracts not come down when it is time to land but I have yet to see that with electrics. It's personal preference I believe more than anything.

[timmybeetle]

I plan on continuing the build and using the supplied pneumatic retracts. Is there a reason why people are so adverse to using them? I am wondering if it comes with valves that allow you to control the speed in which the wheels go up and down.

Hi

when I bought mine I had contact with person who already build this plane, we have first version of it BH136.
He advised me not to use air retract because switch was not of a good quality, also you can not adjust speed.
I used electric retract units from HK, and stock struts that came with KIT , never regret it.
Link to my build I placed in post #10
grts Hans

https://youtu.be/d07mm1Onkak

https://youtu.be/jkr0kB-9DnA

[sfmadmax]

I plan on continuing the build and using the supplied pneumatic retracts. Is there a reason why people are so adverse to using them? I am wondering if it comes with valves that allow you to control the speed in which the wheels go up and down.

[Cfreuen20]

i hope in the future to see a white zero with that surface printing

This new method of surface printing is what sold me on buying this plane. Hopefully when I see it in person, it meets expectations. From the look of things in these pictures, it's a home run. I wonder how well the printing holds up over time?