I installed a ums 150 and had to build an engine box to extend it 3 inches for the prop to clear cowl when balanced i had to ad almost 2 lbs of tail wieght. Do u guys trust the cg in manual and did u use the supplied cg unit that eas supplied?
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All up weight with smoke and scale 3 blade pr0p and spiner was43 lbs a little more that i had hopedComment
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I'm flying at the manual CoG. I chose not to go with dead weight and put all my packs under the fin accessed via the tail retract hatch. That will save you a bit of weight. Also the cowl is way too long in the stock kit so I only made up a 40mm packer for the firewall and mounted the cowl to suit.
Mine came out at ready to fly weight with the 180 about 2.5kg lighter than yours.
The Sist full composite 1/4 Fw-190 comes in at around 3-5kg heavier than your weight so i wouldn't loose too much sleep over it. personally I think they are a little too light, so your weight should be fineComment
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Thanks for the reply it is wut it is now i guess i just dont know about that wooden jig theu gave us for baancing seems to react really slow to changes in ch would like to use a proper balancr jig but cut out in wheel well make it hard as for there set up i used it and plane is steady and level .again 2 pounds of tail wieght yukComment
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Do we really need baffles with the radial engine in this plane ? The way i see it there is limited space between cowl and spinner so air is pretty much directed over cylinders .thought?Comment
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I don't like dead weight in my models either, but just move the packs aft. I have saved quite a lot of weight on friends models just with moving all the gear around to the best locations.
Yes you need baffles to direct the air right over the fins of the cylinders.Comment
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My cylinder temps are reaching 190 to 200 after a 5 minute run on the ground with no cowl is this to high for ums 150 still breakin in on 32 /1 mabe to lean ?Comment
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Hi, Ticketec if possible can you post a couple of new photos of your UMS 180 mounted on your fw 190 firewall
I'm trying to do it the same way as you just to get it right. your190 flies great, can you help with that if its no trouble
Thank dave tateComment
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Planes a beautiful piece of work retracts suck don't waste your time with them . One of mine folded just taxiing on field now motion is out of stock is there any where else that sells a better set?Comment
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I guess ill be the first to mount a 260cc UMS / Blackstar in this mighty bird. Airworlds 1/4 scale FW190 is 37lbs & rated up to a 250cc radial w a 102” wing.
I saw this Black Horse FW190 with a UMS 210cc in her.
The 260 & 210 ums radial 5 have the same diameter.
ill be only 2mm longer, so i can shorten the motor box or mount the cowl out 1mm forward & maybe that will do her.
Besides; like to have extra power to get me out of situations.
Plus I want a GO FAST PLANE to chew up the P47’s out there’Comment
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I’m just assembling mine now and will be using the EME-125 auto start. Anyone have thoughts on using the Beila FW prop on my twin? I’m looking at the 26x16, I’m not sure if will work.Comment
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It was a while ago, so you may have worked out already that it would be way too much prop for the 125Originally posted by Rob Bussler View PostComment
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So after battling with the gear struggling to go up and retract fully in flight, I set about upgrading the stock retract actuators.
A bit of measuring and borrowing of a friends spares selection and the JP ER-200 actuators will fit and replace the stock ER-120's.
As you can see in the pic's as the ER-200 are longer, I had to make an extension plate to one side of the retract housing, and then I also turned up a joiner pin, but they all still fit into the wing without a problem. On the test cycles of the gear, I modded one Leg and left the other stock. Chauk and cheese, The stock ones labored and slowed down a lot and took about 3-4sec longer to cycle. The ER-200 leg did not hesitate at all.
Test flight should happen in the next few weeks if the weather plays nice for a change.Attached FilesComment
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