Official Black Horse 2385mm A6M Zero thread

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  • mikey
    replied
    Purchased 2 each Black Horse Zeros 93" ones. I'm having trouble getting the retract controller to work properly and don't want to fry it.
    Has anyone had experience here? Main issue is between the RX and the controller. Polarity seems off.

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  • MANFRED
    replied
    The thing I hate about BH, Phoenix, Seagull models is the way they stretch the nose way out of scale on most of their ships. Once you see it, it can't be unseen!

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  • Alpha
    replied
    SirAbuse I agree with bananaman , the factory-recommended CG is a safe starting point. That's where I flew it, and eventually ended up moving back another 20mm. Probably could have gone further aft, but didn't have time to truly suss out a good spot for my kind of flying.

    ​​​​​​​Suffice to say, the starting CG is safe and doesn't exhibit any fatal tendencies.

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  • bananaman
    replied
    Hi Dennis, default CG is good, especially as a safe starting point and with tank empty in that position. In time I'll experiment with moving the CG back.
    I don't know the max RPM in flight, I don't have telemetry setup on it yet. I wasn't pushing it, maybe 90% available power was the most I used, it flew fine at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle. The engine didn't seem hot at all after landing.
    I put the tank where the instructions indicated, it isn't an aerobat and most of my warbird models have no easy way of getting the tank on the CG, so it isn't unusual there. I fly some big aerotow tugs with big tanks even further fwd and don't really notice it for that kind of flying. That's one of the advantages of electric power and gliders though, CG and weight doesn't change.

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  • hellcat716
    replied
    You can look at the Turnigy 50cc motor from Hobbyking. I have had great results with this electric motor and sells for a great price. I run it on 12s with a 22x14 prop.

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  • SirAbuse
    replied
    Very nice flight. Congratulations!

    I like the kangaroo. 😂

    You mean the default CG is ok and leave it were it is?
    What was the max RPM with the 23x10 3-Blade Prop with the FG-90R3 in flight?

    In the video i see you have install the petrol tank far ahead from the CG. Maybe front heavy at start und a litle tail havy on empty petrol tank on landing?


    I can´t order the servos. Not in the shop inventory in germany. I do some embellishments....

    Viele Grüße
    Dennis

    Leave a comment:


  • bananaman
    replied
    I finally got to test fly yesterday. A bit windy but it flew well. The CG is per the device they give you, might be a mm or two aft as it hangs slightly tail down. It is very docile and safe there. I wouldn't go further fwd as it is a bit light on the tail wheel and will be more prone to tipping over. The gear is in a good position for me. Might need to shim to tilt the gear forward if you have a soft grass field. Didn't need to trim elevator. A little right aileron needed. Tended to stall to the right, but did stall when expected. Takeoff, a little rudder needed for torque.
    Landings were fine, due to the wind I used half flap, a bit of power down to flare height, throttle off and let it settle on. Looking forward to flying it again.

    Whether you go electric or gas you'll like it. The flight is early in this video.


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  • Joehockey
    replied
    Dennis, beautiful set up ! That engine will surely sound incredible.

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  • SirAbuse
    replied
    New information from germanny: We can fly this weekend with some regulate requirements. 🤩

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    (My 3 year old son helps me to towing the glider 😂)

    I haven't glued my tail cone on. I wait for the balance. Thank you for the hint. Engine and cowl assembly finished. Im am testing some positions for the elektric components. I will use two LiFe battery packs to geht some wight under the ruder servo.
    Next i make the wiring clean and properly and let the engine run the first time in his final place.

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    Viele Grüße
    Dennis

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  • Joehockey
    replied
    I would definitely use the 65CC . I don’t think you have to mount the packs on the nose because of the extended distance from leading edge to the prop .
    If you do need added weight, you can use stand offs and the add the Lipos from a simple hatch !
    Example shown on my CMP Zero
    Attached Files

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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    I'm running a 160kv motor with 26x10 prop on my Black Horse Gilmore as well.

    It's cowl is 15" in diameter, so wanted a little more prop. You likely don't need that much on the Zero.

    I'm running 2x 6S 8000mah lipos as it needed nose weight. Not being a fan of carrying lead around in the sky, I opted for more flight time.

    Looking forward to seeing how you set the Zero up..

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  • RMatteson
    replied
    The 65cc rimfire is 160kv and can swing up to a 26 inch prop. From what I checked today, it looks like the 65cc rimfire will fit fine. There is ample room for 2 6000ma lipos to move fwd or back to get cg right.






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  • Twowingtj
    replied
    The Rimfires are good motors. One thing to keep in mind is that they tend to run at a higher kv than other motors in the same class. Higher kv = smaller prop diameter and pitch.

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  • RMatteson
    replied
    To those who are going electric, model calls out Rimfire 50cc, is this what you are using? Was going to also look at Rimfire 65cc, which is what the H9 KI-43 calls out for electric motor, thou the H9 is smaller then the Zero. I'm going to measure the distance from motor mount to cowl face to see if the longer 65cc will not stick out too much.
    Thanks Rick

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  • Joehockey
    replied
    Incredible , nothing beats a radial !

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  • bananaman
    replied
    Hi Dennis, motor looks great. I didn't fly mine this week but took it out to our field for a run and balanced it again with assistance. I needed 270gm at the tail wheel to get it spot on for the published C.G., so add that to my total weight. Its now 11.1kg, which is under 25lbs (how did I get 26 before?). I could move the motor back another 5mm, but anymore means moving the firewall. The 90 R3 weighs roughly 300gms total weight more than the 73R5 so I think you will be fine with your motor. I have my batteries at the very back of the tray. If you haven't glued your tail cone on, (I did) maybe make it removable so you can put some weight in there behind the tail wheel if you need to. Your 3 views gave me an idea that has worked out well. While not scale, it looks a bit better I think and solves my balance problem.

    I made a balsa tail wheel fairing block, coated it in CA, then did a simple volume check using a glass of water to full, pushed in the fairing block and used a medicine cup to measure how much water I needed to top up to full again. Volume now known in milliliters, multiplied that by the density of lead per mm and got the weight I needed (first try). Then I made a set of molds from Bondo, and cast the block in lead. Its a fair bit of weight to just glue on, so it has four coarse thread screws that straddle the lowest stringer, all epoxied to that and the back screws touch the tailwheel bulkhead. Had to remove the collar and wheel to fit it. I did a bit of airbrushing to match and it turned out OK. That fairing is solid lead. Model is ready for flight. Video of the motor run below.


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  • SirAbuse
    replied
    Alpha I have a TopRC Scale 3-blade spinner vor the Zero: https://www.engelmt.de/mtluftschraub...ero-fighter-93

    But i must cut the blade holes.

    Alternative for the test flights a VarioProp from Ramoser with
    adjustable blade pitch and a nut as spinner: http://www.ramoser.de/home_d/variopr...rioprop_d.html

    Viele Grüße
    Dennis

    Leave a comment:


  • Alpha
    replied
    SirAbuse Thanks for posting photos of your installation, Dennis! The Saito looks right at home in there. What do you plan to do for a spinner?

    Originally posted by Joehockey
    I would rather have a lighter plane vs shorter nose !
    If this was an intentional mod by the factory, it was a good move !
    i am still struggling on my CG on my Zero , hopefully this next attempt is successful
    Joehockey Yes, the factory sometimes adjusts scale profiles to deliver better advantages in the context of RC flight. A perfectly scale nose would have required too much weight up front, too many changes to the flying surfaces, or both. Like you, I agree this was a good move in the case of the Zero because the result is a good-looking representation of the Zero that most importantly flies wonderfully.

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  • SirAbuse
    replied
    Here are some new pictures from my plane. First install of the Saito:

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    Viele Grüße
    Dennis
    Attached Files

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  • SirAbuse
    replied
    bananaman Very nice pictures from the plane.

    I had to cut the gas mount for the Saito R73R5 too. The mount from the engine is too big for the wood mount from the plane. The wood noses must cut off. Ring muffer has enough space.

    On the Saito website is a convertion mount for the FG 60R3 and the FG 73R5. But not to buy here in germany.

    But the kit looks very fantastic.

    Viele Grüße
    Dennis

    Leave a comment:

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