Official FMS 1500mm P-47D Razorback Thread

[davegee]

Well, Dave was over and picked up the little guybye Bob, safe landings!
So the plan is to get everything in the mail tomorrow, Rex gets a late Christmas present.


Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

Hey Dan: The beer is flowing in the O Club! I printed off two sizes of bottles of beer for the boys. still need to be painted.

[Grossman56]

Well, Dave was over and picked up the little guybye Bob, safe landings!
So the plan is to get everything in the mail tomorrow, Rex gets a late Christmas present.


Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[Grossman56]

Here's a video where he's painting a black figure, Like I say, he's a really good go to guy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mo6f6WxiT30

[Grossman56]

Grossman56,
I'm practicing on a German WW1 pilot and his coat is black leather. Do you use the same colors as you do on the brown leather to bring out different shades and shadows. Each pilot is getting better following your methods.
Best Regards, Rex


The beer bottle sounds good. Might have to have a beer myself. lol

Hmm, My thought would be that the coat would be well worn, so a leather color would be showing through. If you want to shade black, use a bit of blue, make the paint thin and apply, then dab off with like a paper towel. To do the leather on my pilots, I start with a black base and use this method using a leather brown or mahogany and build up layers.

You can see the results of doing this a couple of times on your guy:



The end result being this:


Using a sealer between layers is a life saver

I've picked up a lot of tips from this fellow and use the same Krylon clear sealer he does, Wally World:

https://www.youtube.com/@TheCreativeCollector/featured

Check him out.

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[davegee]

.There is this one designed by Tom Hunt , i think it needs a post to be glued into the canopy https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176286/files

Chronicles of Courage: P-47 and the Double Wasp Engine

I like the way those mirrors came out. I printed one at 100% and a second just a little larger to see the difference. I will keep them as spares for now, as it is Very easy to accidentally knock these things off the airplane, usually during handling in the truck to/from the field!

dg

[davegee]

Davegee,
If I shaded the backside of the cowl, would it look like the clearance of the real one? That foam flange is an eyesore to me. Thought of a dark flat grey or flat black with a thin cowling line showing. Your thoughts?
Best Regards, Rex

Hi Rex: good question. This is another one of the little annoying things about a foam aircraft. The cowl flaps were pretty thin pieces of aluminum, but I don't think that they were ever brought down to be exactly flush with the fuselage behind them when completely closed on the ground. There looks to be a little gap when the cowl flaps are completely closed to allow a little bit of cooling air to get through.

So, I think the chosen closed position of the model is fairly close to what the planes looked like when the cowl flaps were fully closed. In other words, the flaps are not completely shutting off cooling air coming into the engine compartment but there is a slight gap. And, the firewall that the engine is attached to curves down right where the aft edge of the cowl flaps are, and there is a little gap even with the cowl flaps fully closed. Unless the model was molded with scale plastic cowl flaps that were the same scale thickness of the real ones, with foam, you really have to make the cowl flaps thicker than scale for model strength, handling, etc.

You can use some shading paints or chalks to try to reduce the thick cowl flaps that were molded that way at the factory for strength so that it looks more like a shadow underneath instead of a hard structure that the model has. I haven't done that on any of my FMS foamie airplanes, but I think you can use your "artist's discretion" to modify the look of it if that bugs you.

Let me know how it comes out. I would want something subtle, looking more like shadows with chalks than to amplify the thick molding of the cowl flaps. If it comes out well, I might do the same thing on mine!

That's my take on it, anyway.

Cheers

Davegee

[vrosi1963]

Chronicles of Courage: P-47 and the Double Wasp Engine

[jetfool]

Davegee,
If I shaded the backside of the cowl, would it look like the clearance of the real one? That foam flange is an eyesore to me. Thought of a dark flat grey or flat black with a thin cowling line showing. Your thoughts?
Best Regards, Rex

[jetfool]

Grossman56,
I'm practicing on a German WW1 pilot and his coat is black leather. Do you use the same colors as you do on the brown leather to bring out different shades and shadows. Each pilot is getting better following your methods.
Best Regards, Rex


The beer bottle sounds good. Might have to have a beer myself. lol

[Grossman56]

I think my next Tinker Cad project should be to design a beer bottle they could all be holding

[jetfool]

Outstanding Dan! I will try to-do him justice at the show. Win or Lose I think he will be the best pilot there. He is a handsome cuss, probably have to beat the ladies off from trampling my plane to see him.

Dave I will look on RCSB forum and try to find a tutorial but here is how I have centered my flying edges. I use my old Du-Bro center finder and a pencil. then slit the line and slide the g10 in. Hope this helps.
Best Regards, Rex

[Grossman56]

Bob waiting in the pilot's pool waiting for his assignment to the 56th Fighter Group.
Bob is second from the right.

[Grossman56]

Just came up for air!
He's 99% finished, just a couple of minor touch ups and some gloss on the eyes, goggles and mouth and he's ready



Again, it's hard to get a descent pic, but remember, he's only about 4" tall in real life!
God, took me a couple of hours just to paint the harness! Good thing I like doing it!
Now, Rex, get in there and win one for the gipper!!

Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)

[davegee]

.There is this one designed by Tom Hunt , i think it needs a post to be glued into the canopy https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176286/files

Thanks. I'll print it up as an extra and possibly replace one of the Flightline Spitfire rear view mirrors that I have on my razotback jugs.

davegee

[davegee]

vrosi1963,
Thank you for the information. I have the Flight Line Spitfire mirror but will file the STL for future use. Glad to have you with us in helping convert this model. Join in with your thoughts and idea's so I can steal them. LOL

Dave, you just slit the center line with an x-acto or razor blade, slide in the g10 and glue w/thin ca. then you can sand a uniform trailing edge. Easy Peasy
On my P-47 3 view the panel lines around the front of the canopy are different than my Razorback.

Best Regards, Rex

I have a few extra flight control surfaces that I could practice on. Do you have a link that would take me directly to what you recommend me using to get a nice trailing edge on the surfaces?

dave

[vrosi1963]

vrosi1963,
Thank you for the information. I have the Flight Line Spitfire mirror but will file the STL for future use. Glad to have you with us in helping convert this model. Join in with your thoughts and idea's so I can steal them. LOL

Dave, you just slit the center line with an x-acto or razor blade, slide in the g10 and glue w/thin ca. then you can sand a uniform trailing edge. Easy Peasy
On my P-47 3 view the panel lines around the front of the canopy are different than my Razorback.

Best Regards, Rex

we will see what i get in return for stl files in the future

[jetfool]

vrosi1963,
Thank you for the information. I have the Flight Line Spitfire mirror but will file the STL for future use. Glad to have you with us in helping convert this model. Join in with your thoughts and idea's so I can steal them. LOL

Dave, you just slit the center line with an x-acto or razor blade, slide in the g10 and glue w/thin ca. then you can sand a uniform trailing edge. Easy Peasy
On my P-47M 3 view the panel lines around the front of the canopy are different than my Razorback.

Best Regards, Rex

[jetfool]

Davegee,
Elbee's description is correct. You can buy strips in .005", .010" up to 1/4" thick from McMaster-Carr. Used a lot in 1/4 scale models, ding proof and lite weight in the smaller thicknesses. Thinking of doing this on the Phantom if I have time. I would use about 1/2" wide .005" strip and poly acrylic a 1-2" 3/4oz fiberglass cloth around the trailing edges. This process doesn't build much weight and blends in with the poly coating process. Just a thought that would set the model apart from a foamy. What do you think Elbee?
The black if right shade of black would be Ok, like you said certain lighting makes a black look a little blue.
Look up Garolite in the McMaster-Carr specs.

Best Regards, Rex

Snow and wind chill 2' today so I'll just have to spend it in the Skunk Works

[vrosi1963]

.There is this one designed by Tom Hunt , i think it needs a post to be glued into the canopy https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176286/files

Chronicles of Courage: P-47 and the Double Wasp Engine

[Elbee]

What is "g10"? Davegee

DG,

Fiberglass/Epoxy laminate sheet, aka Garolite.

G-10 is a grade of this 'branded' product.

Best, LB