Hi Dan: I talked with the guys doing the 3D printing of the fuel drop tank. They said make the changes like reducing the wall thickness as much as possible to the STL that we sent them, when you're done send it to me and then I'll get it to them next week. I think we can reduce the weight enough, at least 1/2 of what V1 weighs to put it into the air sometime soon once we get it all together.
Cheers
Davegee
Official FMS 1500mm P-47D Razorback Thread
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Very Cool! You're halfway there! The guy who I wrote about to you who did the Robert Redford photo in his 1920s flying togs and then transposed him to our picture of a rc model of his Jenny The Great Waldo Pepper looked totally believable. Unfortunately, he passed away years ago but I bet someone out there has done this kind of transposing before and we'll be able to figure it out.
I finished the headset wiring on your pilot today so next time we get together I'll give him back to you. Looks a little more scale with those wires attached.
Question: do you ever put a drop of acrylic clear in the depression where the goggle lenses are on his helmet? I always do that for mine, makes it look a bit more realistic. I'd be happy to do that to your pilot if you'd like me to, or maybe you prefer to not do this step. Your choice,let me know if you want me to do it. They always come out really well.
I got a book, first of two from the Half Price store online on the 357th FG and their pilots. I always like researching things before I start in on a new project like the 1600mm P-51 if I do that.
Cheers
DaveLeave a comment:
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I've eliminated the background, but darned if I can figure out how to layer it on a new background!
Have a try!
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Good points, and well-taken! I'll check out the position of the rudder servo arm. I believe it is not on the outermost hole but the second one in. I use 50 per cent Expo on lower and mid rates on the rudder and tailwheel, and high rates I reserve for taxiing with more rudder authority for tight turns on the ground. I've been adding some up elevator while on the initial takeoff roll and then ease out of it to neutral rudder as the aircraft accelerates. It pretty much flies itself off with very little up rudder command. Landings work out really well, although I got a minor prop tip strike when I landed just a bit too nose down attitude. But that was easy to sand the tips and repaint. Ready to go!You might try dialing down the rate on your rudder as well, something like 80% is plenty for the scale like flying you're into. Too much expo and it starts acting like a wet noodle, I don't go over 30%.
Also, is the control rod in the outermost hole? You can get more rudder with it in the outer hole on both the control arm and the servo control arm, that way, you can turn down the rate and not lose much control throw if you feel you need it. Personally, I use rudder for takeoffs and when in flight, to counteract adverse yaw. When landing, especially with narrow gear such as the Spitfire, I always keep the prop spinning to stop that pull to one side. As you know, you have to be on the ball when it comes to those last few feet of landing, adding too much expo will increase the amount of throw you have to apply before the rudder reacts.
Dan
Cheers
DavegeeLeave a comment:
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You might try dialing down the rate on your rudder as well, something like 80% is plenty for the scale like flying you're into. Too much expo and it starts acting like a wet noodle, I don't go over 30%.
Also, is the control rod in the outermost hole? You can get more rudder with it in the outer hole on both the control arm and the servo control arm, that way, you can turn down the rate and not lose much control throw if you feel you need it. Personally, I use rudder for takeoffs and when in flight, to counteract adverse yaw. When landing, especially with narrow gear such as the Spitfire, I always keep the prop spinning to stop that pull to one side. As you know, you have to be on the ball when it comes to those last few feet of landing, adding too much expo will increase the amount of throw you have to apply before the rudder reacts.
DanLeave a comment:
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I got 10 flights in on my Penrod and Sam yesterday. I was trying out some new Expo settings to try and reduce the tailwheel movement mainly on takeoff and landing rollout runs. Overall it went pretty well, although a few times I lost control of it near the end of the landing rollout and it went off the side of the runway sliightly. I was satisfied with most all the takeoffs that I did. Nothing damaged this time. Also did one drop tank release, worked great, as usual. Ended the morning with a flight of my FMS F-86F, one of my favorite jets. I hope to do some more tests maybe tomorrow morning, if the winds die down.
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Thanks for doing that, Eagle15. I think it looks better in color than black and white somehow. The demarcations between the colors is pretty stark in b&w than when I look at it in my house or at the field. But very cool you made those pics and I thank you!
davegeeLeave a comment:
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Not sure on how it's done, but was it Rex' or Steve's wife that did something like that?
I'll have to look it up and see how.
DanLeave a comment:
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The advantage to living in Cody is that I can see all of Dave's creations in real time.
Up to his house today and checked out Hairless Joe. If you think the pics are good, the real thing is overwelming!
Put in a pic with the right back drop and in black and white and you would swear it was a WWII period picture. Might be an idea to get the pic that Dave worked with and reproduce the angle. Something like this...
Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)Leave a comment:
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With the new Fliteline P51, the vertical stab is a separate piece like the FMS 1450 P51D. It should be a much simpler process with nowhere near the risk.
As someone who has seen Dave's work up close and personal, pics do not do them justice.
Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)Leave a comment:
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Thanks, James. Most of my models now that I come to think of it are modifications of something sold off the rack by one of the major rc companies. For my EFlite 1.5M P-51D, I carefully sliced off the foam fillet that runs from the fuselage to the vertical fin as this part did not come in the first batches of NA P-51D models from the USA. It was a bit risky doing this but it worked out great and the airplane flew great even without this part. It is painted up as LOU IV/ATHELENE, flown by 361st FG commander Col. TJJ Christian, Jr. in WWII. The stock paint job from the manufacturer roughly imitated a modern day version of this airplane, but is just a fanciful paintjob of something that never was in real life, at least in WWII. I tried to make my model look as close as possible to Christian's airplane in the summer of 1944.
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Very cool Dave glad to see some one has some persistence and not just being happy with a stock Cooke cutter boring arf like the majority of the population. A++++++++++++++Here is another attempt to play my recording of the working canopy for my P-47D Hairless Joe. Here is the link below:
https://youtu.be/VpGkmjsVCqo
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I'll play around with that. I did bump up the expo some as an experiment, but didn't really dig into it more than that. I need to do some trials going up and down the runway at various expo settings. Maybe something will materialize. Thanks for your input!
Cheers
davegeeLeave a comment:
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I've never been able to really resolve this with these FMS P-47 airplanes. I do need quite a bit of rudder throw for takeoffs and landings, but for the straightaway takeoff and landing rollouts, it would be great to isolate the tailwheel to freeze it straightforward like the real ones do, and then "unlock" it at taxi speeds so I can use rudder and tailwheel to taxi on the ground. Right now, all my 8 channels are being used so I might try one of my other jugs to play with this with tailwheel control on a separate channel, or something.
What would a higher expo on the rudder do for me, so I have to really crank the rudder stick to get a big movement on the rudder/tail wheel? It starts out fine on takeoff rollout or landing rollout, but then I seem to overcontrol it late in the takeoff or landing roll and it sashays left and right instead of just going straight. I'm sure there is a solution somewehere, I just have not figured it out yet for this airpalne.
By all means, please share pics of your flying meet so we can see what all you guys are flying!
Cheers
DavegeeLeave a comment:
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What about reduced rudder throw
sounds like U can't move the pushrod to the outer hole to reduce it... We have my first scale day at the club tomorrow. Will post pics on what did U fly. In the arvo
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Yes, the only thing I didn't care for is that the tailwheel turn left and right is too high and I'm not sure how to dampen that. It's wired into a control board in the fuse as is the rudder so they sorta work together but I don't have the ability that I know of to reduce that tailwheel throw. I get some fishtailing on the takeoff run close to liftoff, and on landings regardless of the rates setting, it is hard to just have a nice slowup and then put the tailwheel down softly and not have it sashay back and forth. I don't think my other jugs are like that.
Would it help to increase exponential for the tailwheel for steering?
Otherwise, it is a great flyer just like the others that I have had. Really a great design by FMS.
Cheers
DaeeLeave a comment:


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