Official FMS 1500mm P-47D Razorback Thread

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Davegeee
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56
    Looks amazing Dave!
    She flew as well as she looks I gather?

    Dan
    Hi Dan: I talked with the guys doing the 3D printing of the fuel drop tank. They said make the changes like reducing the wall thickness as much as possible to the STL that we sent them, when you're done send it to me and then I'll get it to them next week. I think we can reduce the weight enough, at least 1/2 of what V1 weighs to put it into the air sometime soon once we get it all together.

    Cheers

    Davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • Davegeee
    replied
    Very Cool! You're halfway there! The guy who I wrote about to you who did the Robert Redford photo in his 1920s flying togs and then transposed him to our picture of a rc model of his Jenny The Great Waldo Pepper looked totally believable. Unfortunately, he passed away years ago but I bet someone out there has done this kind of transposing before and we'll be able to figure it out.

    I finished the headset wiring on your pilot today so next time we get together I'll give him back to you. Looks a little more scale with those wires attached.
    Question: do you ever put a drop of acrylic clear in the depression where the goggle lenses are on his helmet? I always do that for mine, makes it look a bit more realistic. I'd be happy to do that to your pilot if you'd like me to, or maybe you prefer to not do this step. Your choice,let me know if you want me to do it. They always come out really well.

    I got a book, first of two from the Half Price store online on the 357th FG and their pilots. I always like researching things before I start in on a new project like the 1600mm P-51 if I do that.

    Cheers

    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    I've eliminated the background, but darned if I can figure out how to layer it on a new background!
    Have a try!
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3656a.jpg
Views:	277
Size:	42.4 KB
ID:	448587 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3660a.jpg
Views:	249
Size:	69.1 KB
ID:	448588

    Leave a comment:


  • Davegeee
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56
    You might try dialing down the rate on your rudder as well, something like 80% is plenty for the scale like flying you're into. Too much expo and it starts acting like a wet noodle, I don't go over 30%.

    Also, is the control rod in the outermost hole? You can get more rudder with it in the outer hole on both the control arm and the servo control arm, that way, you can turn down the rate and not lose much control throw if you feel you need it. Personally, I use rudder for takeoffs and when in flight, to counteract adverse yaw. When landing, especially with narrow gear such as the Spitfire, I always keep the prop spinning to stop that pull to one side. As you know, you have to be on the ball when it comes to those last few feet of landing, adding too much expo will increase the amount of throw you have to apply before the rudder reacts.

    Dan
    Good points, and well-taken! I'll check out the position of the rudder servo arm. I believe it is not on the outermost hole but the second one in. I use 50 per cent Expo on lower and mid rates on the rudder and tailwheel, and high rates I reserve for taxiing with more rudder authority for tight turns on the ground. I've been adding some up elevator while on the initial takeoff roll and then ease out of it to neutral rudder as the aircraft accelerates. It pretty much flies itself off with very little up rudder command. Landings work out really well, although I got a minor prop tip strike when I landed just a bit too nose down attitude. But that was easy to sand the tips and repaint. Ready to go!

    Cheers

    Davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    You might try dialing down the rate on your rudder as well, something like 80% is plenty for the scale like flying you're into. Too much expo and it starts acting like a wet noodle, I don't go over 30%.

    Also, is the control rod in the outermost hole? You can get more rudder with it in the outer hole on both the control arm and the servo control arm, that way, you can turn down the rate and not lose much control throw if you feel you need it. Personally, I use rudder for takeoffs and when in flight, to counteract adverse yaw. When landing, especially with narrow gear such as the Spitfire, I always keep the prop spinning to stop that pull to one side. As you know, you have to be on the ball when it comes to those last few feet of landing, adding too much expo will increase the amount of throw you have to apply before the rudder reacts.

    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • Davegeee
    replied
    I got 10 flights in on my Penrod and Sam yesterday. I was trying out some new Expo settings to try and reduce the tailwheel movement mainly on takeoff and landing rollout runs. Overall it went pretty well, although a few times I lost control of it near the end of the landing rollout and it went off the side of the runway sliightly. I was satisfied with most all the takeoffs that I did. Nothing damaged this time. Also did one drop tank release, worked great, as usual. Ended the morning with a flight of my FMS F-86F, one of my favorite jets. I hope to do some more tests maybe tomorrow morning, if the winds die down.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_3083.jpg Views:	0 Size:	82.2 KB ID:	448583

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Thanks for doing that, Eagle15. I think it looks better in color than black and white somehow. The demarcations between the colors is pretty stark in b&w than when I look at it in my house or at the field. But very cool you made those pics and I thank you!

    davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • Eagle15
    replied
    My attempt from my iPhone with Dave’s bubbletop, can’t say it’s great but I can try with my own Thunderbolt later in the future. If the shot was taken closer to the ground, it would definitely help. Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7142.jpg
Views:	240
Size:	78.1 KB
ID:	448537

    Leave a comment:


  • Eagle15
    replied
    My attempt from my iPhone with Dave’s bubbletop, can’t say it’s great but I can try with my own Thunderbolt later in the future. If the shot was taken closer to the ground, it would definitely help. Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7142.jpg
Views:	201
Size:	78.1 KB
ID:	448535

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Not sure on how it's done, but was it Rex' or Steve's wife that did something like that?
    I'll have to look it up and see how.

    Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    The advantage to living in Cody is that I can see all of Dave's creations in real time.
    Up to his house today and checked out Hairless Joe. If you think the pics are good, the real thing is overwelming!
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20260511_150933.jpg Views:	0 Size:	116.3 KB ID:	448517
    Put in a pic with the right back drop and in black and white and you would swear it was a WWII period picture. Might be an idea to get the pic that Dave worked with and reproduce the angle. Something like this...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	img_1264.webp
Views:	227
Size:	24.0 KB
ID:	448518 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1157.jpg
Views:	222
Size:	90.2 KB
ID:	448519

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    With the new Fliteline P51, the vertical stab is a separate piece like the FMS 1450 P51D. It should be a much simpler process with nowhere near the risk.
    As someone who has seen Dave's work up close and personal, pics do not do them justice.

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by vrosi1963
    Very cool Dave glad to see some one has some persistence and not just being happy with a stock Cooke cutter boring arf like the majority of the population. A++++++++++++++
    Thanks, James. Most of my models now that I come to think of it are modifications of something sold off the rack by one of the major rc companies. For my EFlite 1.5M P-51D, I carefully sliced off the foam fillet that runs from the fuselage to the vertical fin as this part did not come in the first batches of NA P-51D models from the USA. It was a bit risky doing this but it worked out great and the airplane flew great even without this part. It is painted up as LOU IV/ATHELENE, flown by 361st FG commander Col. TJJ Christian, Jr. in WWII. The stock paint job from the manufacturer roughly imitated a modern day version of this airplane, but is just a fanciful paintjob of something that never was in real life, at least in WWII. I tried to make my model look as close as possible to Christian's airplane in the summer of 1944.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG-0567.jpg Views:	0 Size:	151.9 KB ID:	448421 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG-0570.jpg Views:	0 Size:	238.3 KB ID:	448422

    Leave a comment:


  • f4u ausie
    replied
    Yeeeaa. It works the vid and the sliding canopy :partying_face:

    Leave a comment:


  • vrosi1963
    replied
    Originally posted by davegee
    Here is another attempt to play my recording of the working canopy for my P-47D Hairless Joe. Here is the link below:

    https://youtu.be/VpGkmjsVCqo​
    Very cool Dave glad to see some one has some persistence and not just being happy with a stock Cooke cutter boring arf like the majority of the population. A++++++++++++++

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by f4u ausie
    By your description. Simply more expo just may help.
    I'll play around with that. I did bump up the expo some as an experiment, but didn't really dig into it more than that. I need to do some trials going up and down the runway at various expo settings. Maybe something will materialize. Thanks for your input!

    Cheers

    davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • f4u ausie
    replied
    By your description. Simply more expo just may help.

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by f4u ausie
    What about reduced rudder throw sounds like U can't move the pushrod to the outer hole to reduce it... We have my first scale day at the club tomorrow. Will post pics on what did U fly. In the arvo
    I've never been able to really resolve this with these FMS P-47 airplanes. I do need quite a bit of rudder throw for takeoffs and landings, but for the straightaway takeoff and landing rollouts, it would be great to isolate the tailwheel to freeze it straightforward like the real ones do, and then "unlock" it at taxi speeds so I can use rudder and tailwheel to taxi on the ground. Right now, all my 8 channels are being used so I might try one of my other jugs to play with this with tailwheel control on a separate channel, or something.

    What would a higher expo on the rudder do for me, so I have to really crank the rudder stick to get a big movement on the rudder/tail wheel? It starts out fine on takeoff rollout or landing rollout, but then I seem to overcontrol it late in the takeoff or landing roll and it sashays left and right instead of just going straight. I'm sure there is a solution somewehere, I just have not figured it out yet for this airpalne.

    By all means, please share pics of your flying meet so we can see what all you guys are flying!

    Cheers

    Davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • f4u ausie
    replied
    What about reduced rudder throw sounds like U can't move the pushrod to the outer hole to reduce it... We have my first scale day at the club tomorrow. Will post pics on what did U fly. In the arvo

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56
    Looks amazing Dave!
    She flew as well as she looks I gather?

    Dan
    Yes, the only thing I didn't care for is that the tailwheel turn left and right is too high and I'm not sure how to dampen that. It's wired into a control board in the fuse as is the rudder so they sorta work together but I don't have the ability that I know of to reduce that tailwheel throw. I get some fishtailing on the takeoff run close to liftoff, and on landings regardless of the rates setting, it is hard to just have a nice slowup and then put the tailwheel down softly and not have it sashay back and forth. I don't think my other jugs are like that.

    Would it help to increase exponential for the tailwheel for steering?

    Otherwise, it is a great flyer just like the others that I have had. Really a great design by FMS.

    Cheers

    Daee

    Leave a comment:

Working...