Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

[Grossman56]

It was worth it in my opinion. I still had an A3 which gave me Sport and Safe as opposed to Sport and 3D with the A3L. I was having trouble with the airplane until I added weight to the front to move the CG forward she kept wanting to swap ends, didn't know what that was like until the Spitfire. Anyway, with the addition of the A3 and the extra weight she flies like a dream now.
BTW, just turn the 3D screw all the way off as it isn't going to help you anyway. I have my gain for the Sport mode at 100% and the gain assigned to the knob of my radio, which I usually start at around 40%.

Grossman56

[bikerGus]

Thanks all for the tips.

I might be over thinking the blue box lights connectors... just didn’t want to burn out the bulbs.

Brushing a light coat of minwax to prevent the decal backing pulling off the paint makes sense. Followed by a coat over the decals.

I purchased an Eagle A3 L V2 3 axis gyro to install... has anyone else installed a gyro in the Spitfire or is it not worth the addition of another potential failure point between servos and receiver?

[Gringotuerto]

As the famous Barbeque sauce commercial says, "I put this #### on everything!

It is probably good as a general coating, but I have also used this just on small areas when I want to put Callie's decals on painted foam. Sometimes the decal backing will pull paint off the foam. If you give the decal area one coat of poly urethane and let it dry before applying the decal, then this doesn't happen. If you match flat/satin/gloss to the rest of the model, you don't even need to cover the entire model, you can just cover the area around the decal and the polyurethane boundary won't show.

[Grossman56]

As the famous Barbeque sauce commercial says, "I put this #### on everything!

The can is the same, it just says 'clear gloss' on it. I find that if you want the most glossy, use a brush, slightly less, use a spray gun. If you want a flat finish, buy the matte version and shoot it on with a spray gun. I would still use the gloss initially to seal in the decals as my experience has shown that the matte finish doesn't seem to seal in the decals, at least not as well as the gloss. As for rattle cans, I can't say as I have no experience with them.

Results?

No, the Mustang is Flite Metal, but the wings are Spar Urethane as P-51's came from the factory with painted wings.

Grossman56

[Hugh Wiedman]

First time post... question on the blue box reference post #2460... Grossman56 provided the light plugins for the wing tips go to the “Strobe-Light” connector and beacon strobe go to the “Wing-Light” connector because the Flightline User Manual is wrong. Correct?

next question: are the right wing and left wing retract plugs connected on the same side of the blue box in “Landing -Gear 1” and “Landing -Gear 2” ? (Spit has no landing gear doors so nothing connected to “Landing-Gear Door 1/2/3 blue box)?

last question: is it recommended to paint the whole plane with a brushed on coat of minwax before installing the decals, followed by a second coat to seal the decals?

Having read all 148 pages, thanks to all posters for the good information.

just returned to rc flying after a 25 layoff, purchased the Spit after relearning how fly on a Sig Kadet Senior and an Eflite Air Tractor.

bikerGus

Clear Coat after everything is on, including graphics. I like to do 4 lite coats so there are no clumps or hardened drips. Spray is better, gets more even coats, but requires a lot more masking of areas that you don't want this stuff on and you need to be careful on vertical surfaces (rudders) and wing edges, which is why an even lite coat each time is preferable. I use the Varathane Spar Urethane clear gloss exterior water based and like that, but I'm sure the MinWax is just as good. Make sure it is the Exterior (resists yellowing in the sun) and the water based (not oil based).

[Grossman56]

It's been a while since I played around with mine, but I do remember the strobe light being wrong in the manual. However, when I rewrote the Spitfire Online manual, I believe is is the correct version, again, been awhile...
when it comes to the landing gear, go with "landing -Gear 2, port for port side and starboard for starboard side. If you use any combination of 1, 2 or 3 you'll get a delay on one side. I set mine up like that and took a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbIMNEoAklg

Hope that helps

Grossman56

[bikerGus]

First time post... question on the blue box reference post #2460... Grossman56 provided the light plugins for the wing tips go to the “Strobe-Light” connector and beacon strobe go to the “Wing-Light” connector because the Flightline User Manual is wrong. Correct?

next question: are the right wing and left wing retract plugs connected on the same side of the blue box in “Landing -Gear 1” and “Landing -Gear 2” ? (Spit has no landing gear doors so nothing connected to “Landing-Gear Door 1/2/3 blue box)?

last question: is it recommended to paint the whole plane with a brushed on coat of minwax before installing the decals, followed by a second coat to seal the decals?

Having read all 148 pages, thanks to all posters for the good information.

just returned to rc flying after a 25 layoff, purchased the Spit after relearning how fly on a Sig Kadet Senior and an Eflite Air Tractor.

bikerGus

[kallend]

This week marks the 85th anniversary of the maiden flight of the Spitfire.

https://www.memorialflightclub.com/blog/spitfire-maiden-flight-85th-anniversary

[RodgerC]

Has anyone ordered a Motion RC plane and had it delivered to New Zealand or Australia lately? Just wondering how long delivery would be if I ordered the Corsair (I already have the Spitfire). I am aware due to COVID deliveries are taking longer than usual.

[Hugh Wiedman]

Got some RAF formation flights in with RudyD54 and his Spitty today. What a blast flying these 2 together, getting 7-8 minutes in the air. Truly an outstanding flying aircraft, thanks MRC. And oddly enough, I didn't even hit him in the air. Oh well, next time I'll try harder. He's probably safer if I fly trying to hit him than trying to avoid him cause I seem to never be able to fly where I want!

And in the photo it's his that is the more "scale" of the two, big surprise, right? Got to fly a bunch of others as well.

[Beetlemankurt]

Thanks Chaps! :)

Kurt

[Hugh Wiedman]

I finally got my aces of iron pilot and the cockpit kit in! You can’t see much of the detail in the cockpit kit in the photos but if you peer really closely through the glass in person you can.

Overall, I’m really pleased with the extra detail it adds.

Kurt

The detail in the cockpit actually shows quite well, great work and detail on the pilot, outstanding!

[Elbee]

Well, it been a while since I posted...Now I’m on holiday I finally got my aces of iron pilot and the cockpit kit in! Overall, I’m really pleased with the extra detail it adds. Happy New Year everyone!Regards, Kurt

Kurt, Truly well done, Sir. Good Hunting. Best, LB

[Gringotuerto]

Looks good, well done! (Edit : also I looked up history of that plane - interesting, good choice).

[Beetlemankurt]

Well, it been a while since I posted as work has been crazy busy and I’ve been spending some time doing RC Trucking which is also massively fun.

Now I’m on holiday I finally got my aces of iron pilot and the cockpit kit in! You can’t see much of the detail in the cockpit kit in the photos but if you peer really closely through the glass in person you can........

Overall, I’m really pleased with the extra detail it adds. Just need to rebalance as I’m not too sure what effect it’s had on CG and I’ll be able to take to the skies again. enough talking, here’s some pics .

Happy New Year everyone!

Regards
Kurt

[Evan D]

Loose with the screw so you can take the wing off.

[Jeffco]

I've assembled it, fitted the 5000 Admiral battery and it balanced at 90mm back.
This air intake, do you glue it onto the wing or leave it loose to be fixed with the screw?

[paulrkytek]

Good luck Jeffco,, with the hard runway touch down on the mains and let the tail settle on its own as it slows down., just cut the throttle as the wheels touch, no flaps required..

[Jeffco]

Thank to you all for the advice. I'll let you know how I get on. Paul, I'll PM and phone you if necessary but your description of what to do is very clear.
I've not checked CG yet, but will let you know how it is with my Admiral 5000 battery set as far forward as possible. This is my first 6 cell prop plane, as I bought these batteries for the Avanti.
Chichester club has a hard runway so nosing over won't be such a risk. But I can't fly right now otherwise I'd have had it finished by Boxing day.
I have some of the foaming type Gorilla glue which I use to re-stick gear boxes, and I may try and get some to flow in via small drilled holes.

[paulrkytek]

Finally, would a 18x6 2 blade prop work? Or 18x8? The 4 blade is 16x6.

stick with the 4 blade, they are pretty tough, just check out youtube for take off and landing videos, if you have flown warbirds and your field is well cut grass you will be fine. Fields are very wet at the moment so be ready to feed in plenty of up elevator to guard against nose over ONCE YOU HAVE TOUCHED DOWN. as you are likely to slow down pretty quick on grass right now. You will probably have to add lead to the front to achieve correct cg as per book. check the main gear carcasses the glue is sparse!!! Do the flap to elevator mix as per book, I really enjoy flying the spitfire.it has lots of power and torque so a bit of up elevator to get you rolling, ease off elevator a touch ease the throttle up on starting your takeoff,, it lifts at 1/2 throttle, be smooth on the throttle and power away, touch of right rudder and enjoy the ride..

have fun, Paul in W Yorks