Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread
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I was referring to the servo slow function. In my radio the only way to do a delay is with the sequencer function, that would work if you put each retract on it's own channel. -
Ok, I see that.The delay works on both gear at the same time unless they are on separate channels, it's the same if you want you doors to open first, then the gear using the sequence setup, separate channels to achieve hence the sequence board in planes with retracts and doors on one channel.
So you could just disconnect the retracts from the Blue Box, and connect each to a separate channel, then set a delay (or even the slow function might give you the necessary delay more or less) on one of them?
I'm clearly overlooking something here....Leave a comment:
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The delay works on both gear at the same time unless they are on separate channels, it's the same if you want you doors to open first, then the gear using the sequence setup, separate channels to achieve hence the sequence board in planes with retracts and doors on one channel.Leave a comment:
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Evan,
I think you are referring to the "slow" function, while I am talking about a delay? That's how it's called on my radio anyway. You can set a "slow" in either "up" or "down", and the same for a "delay" (in tenths of a second).
The "slow" won't work (as well) on retracts because they respond to a "zero-passing", not to an absolute position of the channel. If you program the slow interval long enough, you will have the delay, but at half that interval approximately.
I use this delay function all the time to program my own gear door sequencers for instance.Leave a comment:
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Couldn't you just use the delay function on the radio for the gear channels? I would set a delay on one channel, and only in the "up" direction, not in the down.Leave a comment:
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The ATtiny85 costs around $4. Not exactly breaking the bank.
But you do need to know how to program it.
The Pro Micro is easier to work with, but costs a whopping $8.Leave a comment:
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Just a suggestion, I changed it back to normal afterwards because, well frankly, I didn't like it. It depends on how scale accurate you are willing to pay for I guess.
Grossman56Leave a comment:
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G5, I am becoming a fan of the MCB-E, aka: Blue Box. It is now common in Freewing and Flightline Airframes and when working well, does accomplish much of what I wanted my Arduinos to do. At any rate, I need to get back to studying and tinkering with the Arduianos...pretty neat stuff for us modelers. Best, LBYou mean like this?
I plug one of the retracts into the landing gear door plug on the blue box and the other into the regular retract plug.
Grossman56
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Yes, I tried that first. The delay is wrong and works on both directions.You mean like this?
I plug one of the retracts into the landing gear door plug on the blue box and the other into the regular retract plug.
Grossman56Leave a comment:
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You mean like this?
I plug one of the retracts into the landing gear door plug on the blue box and the other into the regular retract plug.
Grossman56Leave a comment:
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Sketch sent by PM.
KL, Thank you for this Arduino Tip. I was hoping one day someone would start an Arduino/Clones thread. Heck, there might be one and I have checked it out. Anyway, yes i have dabbled with sketches and devices, Also, bought a starter set a couple years ago and since several of the mini clones as I was wanting to build custom LED lighting and lighting effects using Arduinos for EDF airframes. I just have not taken time to play in that schoolyard enough to be handy. Anyway, thank you and if you would PM the 'sketch' I would be grateful. Best, LBLeave a comment:
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The sketch is specifically for the ATtiny85, which has slightly different port assignments from the normal Arduinos. With minor modification it will also run on the normal ones, but they are all bigger in size.
KL, Thank you for this Arduino Tip. I was hoping one day someone would start an Arduino/Clones thread. Heck, there might be one and I have checked it out. Anyway, yes i have dabbled with sketches and devices, Also, bought a starter set a couple years ago and since several of the mini clones as I was wanting to build custom LED lighting and lighting effects using Arduinos for EDF airframes. I just have not taken time to play in that schoolyard enough to be handy. Anyway, thank you and if you would PM the 'sketch' I would be grateful. Best, LBLeave a comment:
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KL, Thank you for this Arduino Tip. I was hoping one day someone would start an Arduino/Clones thread. Heck, there might be one and I have checked it out. Anyway, yes i have dabbled with sketches and devices, Also, bought a starter set a couple years ago and since several of the mini clones as I was wanting to build custom LED lighting and lighting effects using Arduinos for EDF airframes. I just have not taken time to play in that schoolyard enough to be handy. Anyway, thank you and if you would PM the 'sketch' I would be grateful. Best, LBIf you've ever watched a Spit (or Hurricane) takeoff you will have noticed that the two legs don't retract simultaneously:https://youtu.be/dVrvDGpelOk If anyone is into Arduino devices, I have a "sketch" (program) for an ATtiny85 that delays one leg on retraction. There is no delay for the gear coming down. It is very small (less than 1 gram), requires no additional components, and just fits inline in the retract lead. I will send the sketch on request but I do not recommend unless you are familiar with Arduinos.Leave a comment:
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If you've ever watched a Spit (or Hurricane) takeoff you will have noticed that the two legs don't retract simultaneously:
If anyone is into Arduino devices, I have a "sketch" (program) for an ATtiny85 that delays one leg on retraction. There is no delay for the gear coming down. It is very small (less than 1 gram), requires no additional components, and just fits inline in the retract lead.
I will send the sketch on request but I do not recommend unless you are familiar with Arduinos.
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