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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

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  • Arycon
    replied
    Base layer down. More weathering to come. Will make a pass with ultra light highlights to make the scheme even more worn in. Then it is on to paint chipping.

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  • Evan D
    replied
    Here's both mine. The stripes pop in the air.

    Click image for larger version

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  • Elbee
    replied
    Arycon Yeppers, you might of already posted that you were doing a livery mod, if so, my bad for not remembering. Nice choice. Best, LB

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  • Arycon
    replied
    Originally posted by Elbee View Post

    AC, Crack-on, indeed, Sir. Any plans for a repaint? The OEM liveries are quite good, though. Best, LB
    This is what I am going for. John Plagis' "Muscat Kay" 5JK. Doing the underside D-Day stripes to help with orientation. When they're on top it gets distracting to me.

    I just got back from a craft store. Bought several different colors to mix for my airbrush. Hopefully I can get close. Should be able to. Plan to keep the stock color scheme but she will be weathered and the end result should hopefully look like the one below. Callie Graphics are already in the mail.

    Paint will start Wednesday. I will update as I go.

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  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Arycon View Post
    Well, lads. I say crack on!
    AC, Crack-on, indeed, Sir. Any plans for a repaint? The OEM liveries are quite good, though. Best, LB

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  • Arycon
    replied
    Well, lads. I say crack on!

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  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Originally posted by kallend View Post

    I use 5000mAh packs and have not found it necessary to add any lead, nor have I found it to be twitchy.
    My only point was that I flew it for about 50 flights at first 10mm behind the recommended CG (at 100mm) and there found it a bit elevator twitchy, but who knows, could just be my twitchy fingers. Flying it now at 92mm (manual is at 90 if I remember) and the SMC 6200 does weight 814 gr. To get it there, I needed to put the battery all the way forward and add 1 ounce of lead. The sound board and 2 transducers are near the CG line, so that shouldn't affect it much and I'm using 3" Hangar 9 ProLite wheels, but those also are near the line, so not sure why mine was inherently more tail heavy. Could be all the paint and the 5 coats of Spar Urethane. I had the same issue with my Corsair, added all the weight I could in the nose and some more, using the same battery and sound system. I put the warbirds.com pilot in there with moving head, the 3D cockpit and added cowl flaps, but don't think that affected it much. I guess, just like these aircrafts pilot, for some reason they got a little to much baggage in the rear!

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  • Evan D
    replied
    Never seen a bad flying model of a P-47 though I don't buy anything HH sells (except the Apprentice).

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  • Arycon
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    FL make an awesome plane. I am waiting for them to do a really nice 1600 P-51D.
    Dude...don't even get me started! I'm also eyeing the FMS 1500mm P-47.

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  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Simon Bee View Post
    It’s arrived and I have had a quick look, I have to say the quality looks to notch 😀
    makes me nervous about flying it, don’t want to spoil it !
    SB, Trust me, you will do great. It is a beautiful flying model. Best, LB

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  • Evan D
    replied
    FL make an awesome plane. I am waiting for them to do a really nice 1600 P-51D.

    Leave a comment:


  • Simon Bee
    replied
    It’s arrived and I have had a quick look, I have to say the quality looks to notch 😀
    makes me nervous about flying it, don’t want to spoil it !

    Leave a comment:


  • Arycon
    replied
    I use Admiral 6S 6000 for all or my big birds: T-33, FL F4U, e-Flite FW 190 and soon the Spitty. I will be using two transducers, and where I put them will be determined by where I am able to place the battery. If it is full forward and not nose heavy, I will put them forward of the CoG line until it levels. Vice versa, if it is nose heavy, they will be aft of CoG. Usually, I try to place them dead on the CoG line to neutralize rheir weight. That is what I did for my F4U Corsair, but it ha s removable weights in the nose, and that helped.

    ideally, I never add weights to a plane, if possible. It's dead weight. I'd rather use a heavy battery I can adjust position with. Without the Spitty in hand, I can make.no assumptions. It will figure it out before the transducers are glued in. I expect the Spitty to fly like it is on rails, just as my Corsair does. FL aircraft are top notch in my book. Unlike my e-Flite FW 190, which broke a landing gear strut on first roll out. I ran off the runway throttling up. Done this more than I hate to admit (not for a while now) and I have only ever have a strut be slightly bent. The FW 190 gear pin sheared clean in half between the strut and trunion. I was like wth? Ordered a new part, thinking no big deal, and I get two pins in the replacement part bag. Nope. Opened it to find one pin is Left and one is Right. Never seen any company do that. Pins are usually universal (in my experience), but I suddenly thought that maybe it made sense if it was known the metal of the pins were prone to breakage. Awesome business strategy e-Flite.

    In any case, very happy with Flightline and Motion. I'm sure the Spitty will not disappoint. Shipped yesterday so should arrive in a few days.

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    Important information when telling someone where they place their battery for balance.
    Well, I have a 725g pack as far forward as it will go, 2 MrRC transducers (Aspire system) in the rear, and no added lead. Plane is not twitchy.

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  • Evan D
    replied
    Important information when telling someone where they place their battery for balance.

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    He has two transducers that effect his CG..
    So do I, and they are both behind the CG (one is in the rear fuse).

    My battery weight is 725g

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  • Evan D
    replied
    He has two transducers that effect his CG. I have one transducer further back behind the cockpit in mine (why I don't say where I place my batteries or their weight). As I've said many times its not the mAh of the battery that effects the position but the weight of the battery, is that a 500g battery or a 900g. Makes a difference and because of other differences in the airplane one shouldn't rely on another's battery placement to balance, they should actually measure it.

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    Originally posted by Hugh Wiedman View Post

    Also, stick close to the manual CG, which may require nose lead. This bird gets twitchy when using an aft CG and flies and lands better nose heavy at recommended CG. I'm using an SMC 6200 weighing 814 gr, all the way forward with some lead as well. Flight time with that battery is over 10 minutes with plenty of hot dogging! Sweet!

    If yours does not have it, add carbon fiber tubes on each side of the fuse in the existing channels in the front section.
    I use 5000mAh packs and have not found it necessary to add any lead, nor have I found it to be twitchy.

    Leave a comment:


  • Simon Bee
    replied
    That’s very helpful, thanks.
    yes I’m using an AR637T which I’ve robbed off my Avanti.
    I’m only going to use the Rx for AS3X only, not going to bother with SAFE and INTERMEDIATE modes which I’ve used previously .
    All I want is gain adjustment on the top rotary knob.

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  • Hugh Wiedman
    replied
    Assume you're using the Ar637t, so you'll only have 6 plug in channels (although Spektrum RX's have up to 20 internal "ghost channels" for extra unplugged things like safe, in flight gain adjust, etc., limited only by the channels on your RX). Throttle, aileron, elevator, rudder, gear and flap will be the 6 plug in channels, so you'll have to set wing type to 1 aileron, 1 flap, with both those y'd into one channel each. If I remember, they go though the circuit board where they are y'd anyway. To do 2 ail, 2 flap you'd have to have an 8 channel Rx and bypass the circuit board.

    Besides, you'll want to use the 7th channel on your NX8, being aux 2 (aux1 is flap) to assign it to the top right knob to allow in flight gain adjusts. You will also assign the FM channel most likely to the gear channel which will give you 2 separate gain profiles. There is a way to assign it to the flap channel giving you 3 profiles, but that's a bit complicated and requires flap deflections of a certain % amount at each position to get it to work properly and switch from each FM. I do that, but takes a lot of tinkering to get it right, including adjusting the control rods so you have the desired outcome and flap deflections.

    Assigning it to the gear is much easier. I'm using 40/45/55 rate gains flaps up (in your case with gear up) and 70/80/90 when gear down, theoretically when taking off and landing and going slower.

    Also, stick close to the manual CG, which may require nose lead. This bird gets twitchy when using an aft CG and flies and lands better nose heavy at recommended CG. I'm using an SMC 6200 weighing 814 gr, all the way forward with some lead as well. Flight time with that battery is over 10 minutes with plenty of hot dogging! Sweet!

    If yours does not have it, add carbon fiber tubes on each side of the fuse in the existing channels in the front section.

    Last but not least, land with throttle no less than 25% keeping it level with mains touching first. You can 3 point it, but land it scale and the retracts and tail wheel will thank you for it in the long run.

    Leave a comment:

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