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Official FlightLine RC 1600mm Spitfire Mk. IX Thread

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  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
    One gear to the gear door plug in the blue box and one to the gear plug in the blue box, the blue box gear wire to the gear port on the receiver. In your case, you already have everything hooked up all you have to do is decide which gear you want to deploy first, remove that from the port it's in and move it to the gear door port. It will deploy first as the blue box thinks its deploying the gear door. When you retract, that will be the last gear to retract as its, again thinking its closing the gear door.

    Grossman56
    Excellent headwork coming up with this idea, Dan! I got mine working fine. The only quirk, if I could call it that, is when I first power the plane up and extend the gear, only one comes down. Then, I retract the gear, that one gear comes up, followed by a short noise from the retract that didn't deploy on the first go. Then, when I extend the gear again, everything works just as it is supposed to, through many cycles. A very minor point, and I'll exercise the gear through at least one rotation cycle before I put it in the air on each flight. Looks very cool to have the staggered gear up/down like that!👍👍

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  • SanExup
    replied
    That may be the easiest rc scale modification ever! Thanks Grossman!

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Had to go looking for the pic I had mapping out the blue box, have a look
    Click image for larger version

Name:	flight control board.PNG
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Size:	123.4 KB
ID:	347511

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    One gear to the gear door plug in the blue box and one to the gear plug in the blue box, the blue box gear wire to the gear port on the receiver. In your case, you already have everything hooked up all you have to do is decide which gear you want to deploy first, remove that from the port it's in and move it to the gear door port. It will deploy first as the blue box thinks its deploying the gear door. When you retract, that will be the last gear to retract as its, again thinking its closing the gear door.

    Grossman56

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by vduniec View Post
    Dude! That’s brilliant! I was thinking I was going to have to assign each gear to it’s own channel and program the delay in. Thanks for sharing.

    Hey Dan: pretty cool setup with staggered gear retracting/deploying. Did you have to put a Y harness in there somewhere? I see where you said wire one of the gear directly into the gear port of the receiver. With the other one, plug it into the Gear Door (G-D) on the Blue Box. But that still leaves a connection to do from the blue box to the receiver. I'm confuzzled. Could you elaborate?

    Thanks,

    Davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by Rob66 View Post
    heres my 1600mm PR11 conversion, its had a re shaped rudder., deeper chin with smaller carb scoop, fatter exhausts, modified canopy,.
    R6, Outstanding modifications and repaint. A unique livery choice that most would not take on. Impressive photos and documentation. Truly well done, Sir. Best, LB

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    Great job and great choice Rob, something I haven't seen yet.

    Grossman56

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  • Rob66
    replied
    heres my 1600mm PR11 conversion, its had a re shaped rudder., deeper chin with smaller carb scoop, fatter exhausts, modified canopy,.

    Leave a comment:


  • vduniec
    replied
    Dude! That’s brilliant! I was thinking I was going to have to assign each gear to it’s own channel and program the delay in. Thanks for sharing.

    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
    You mean like this?

    I plug one of the retracts into the landing gear door plug on the blue box and the other into the regular retract plug.

    Grossman56

    Leave a comment:


  • HangarQueen
    replied
    But anyway, the reason why I'm looking at this thread is because a fellow club member flew one of these 1600mm Spitfires on our field a while ago, and I was impressed with what I saw.
    I fly a BH Spitfire, a 2m span beast weighing in at plus-8kg, which is a real delight and a sensation to fly, but operating it on our relatively short grass runway can be a challenge sometimes. It is really easy to land, but its inertia makes for a long runout after landing, causing damage to the undercarriage a couple of times. I really need to have a touchdown within the first quarter of our runway or I'm in trouble. Takeoff can be a challenge too, with 3000W pulling it to the left.
    I am really in love with the Spitfire, already own 2 models (a smaller 1,2m version too) of it, so I was very interested in this 1600mm version. I was amazed by the level of scale details, and it appeared to fly really well too.
    Last year I found out that he sold the model, which was disappointing to me. I might have bought it from him, having a much simpler model to take to the field, no bells and whistles (my large BH version uses 13 channels!), just put a battery in and fly.
    There is another club member that owns one, but he's a bit afraid to fly it. In fact, I haven't actually seen him fly it. Maybe he'll sell his 😀

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  • HangarQueen
    replied
    No, Frsky

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  • Elbee
    replied
    Originally posted by HangarQueen View Post
    Can't you use sbus or something similar?
    When I'm in need of more than 8 channels, I use either an sbus to ppm converter (4 extra ppm channels per device) or the Redundancy Bus devices to get up to 16 channels. Very flexible system really.
    HQ, do you fly Futaba? Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	77ADA1F2-6A35-420A-B96C-D4EE328619AC.jpeg
Views:	950
Size:	281.9 KB
ID:	344847 It’s a spit day. I have both my 1600’s.

    Leave a comment:


  • HangarQueen
    replied
    Can't you use sbus or something similar?
    When I'm in need of more than 8 channels, I use either an sbus to ppm converter (4 extra ppm channels per device) or the Redundancy Bus devices to get up to 16 channels. Very flexible system really.

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    Originally posted by HangarQueen View Post
    That's where I'm confused; even if you split the retracts over 2 separate channels, you're still at just 7 channels. That still leaves one channel for other accessories. Exactly how many channels are you using for this model?
    Eight. I would like ten.

    Leave a comment:


  • HangarQueen
    replied
    That's where I'm confused; even if you split the retracts over 2 separate channels, you're still at just 7 channels. That still leaves one channel for other accessories. Exactly how many channels are you using for this model?

    Leave a comment:


  • kallend
    replied
    As my mother would say, there's more than one way to skin a cat.

    I chose to do the delay with an inline $4 chip because it was an interesting project and didn't need an extra channel. If you have a channel to spare then by all means use a sequencer or other means to slow triggering one retract. Or not, if it's not important to you.

    Leave a comment:


  • HangarQueen
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    If you do try it let us know if that works.
    Don't wait for me, I have the delay function on every channel :-)

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  • Evan D
    replied
    Interesting point. Increase the travel and slow the movement so that it hits the trigger point to extend or retract and different times. If you do try it let us know if that works.

    Leave a comment:


  • HangarQueen
    replied
    I haven't tried this ever, but bet you could use the slow function too. It will take a set time to go from one value to another, so that can count as a delay too, as it would delay the zero-crossing moment for your retract to react to.
    That is, if your radio differentiates between the up and down movement for the slow function?

    Leave a comment:

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