Official Dynam 1500mm B-26 Marauder Thread

[OV10]

Thanx Alpha for the synopsis and as you mentioned in the customizable paragraph the mad modder in me will take about 15 minutes to fix this bird to the appropriate lighting scheme.
So now you gotta know what my follow up inquiry is :Devil: Which manufacturer are ya gonna get to do my OV-10 Bronco :ov10;)LOL:Thinking:

[ruffneckx1]

Thanks on the feedback regarding the lights.

Woody

[borntoolate]

Thank for all the info, Alpha! I can't wait to get my hands on a couple of these. I am brainstorming the bomb bay mod now.


Bob

[Alpha]

Thank for all the info, Alpha! I can't wait to get my hands on a couple of these. I am brainstorming the bomb bay mod now.


Bob

Speaking of mods, Bob, here is a picture I took yesterday here at the factory of one of the scrap fuselages, showing the internal layout from nose to tail. It's easy to see what's necessary and what can be removed. This should helps guys like you and Adam plan your mods. You can see what's inside the fuse first instead of cutting in from the outside without a clue. Attached also is an earlier photo with a ruler as a reference.

Who else provides this kind of [literal] insider info? ;) I can't wait to see what you come up with!

[borntoolate]

Speaking of mods, Bob, here is a picture I took yesterday here at the factory of one of the scrap fuselages, showing the internal layout from nose to tail. It's easy to see what's necessary and what can be removed. This should helps guys like you and Adam plan your mods. You can see what's inside the fuse first instead of cutting in from the outside without a clue. Attached also is an earlier photo with a ruler as a reference.

Who else provides this kind of [literal] insider info? ;) I can't wait to see what you come up with!

Thanks, Alpha! You are absolutely right! No one besides MotionRC (and you specifically! ) provide this much information. You guy have gone above and beyond every time! The B-26s will keep me busy for a while, but I am anxiously awaiting whatever else you have hidden up your sleeve! Take care and if you ever come back home, maybe I will see you down south again.


Bob

[Alpha]

Another good day at the factory. Here's a photo of the box showing how the model will arrive. To simplify assembly, the nacelles arrive completely pre-assembled! The ESCs are in the nacelles, and the motor/ESC/retract/inboardflap/battery wiring is already routed into the battery bay for you. Assembly is therefore very straightforward: Remove the fuse as shown, screw on the outer wing panels, screw on the tail, and you're done with primary assembly.



The canopy, nose cone, and tail cone are unattached, giving pilots the option to customize/detail those areas before gluing on the plastic covering pieces. So for those of us who don't like the pilots, you don't have to glue them in. Repaint, or replace, or ditch altogether. Creating an all-new pilot mold for this aircraft was not in the cards at this pricepoint (we already did all-new motors and CR props for this bird), so Dynam is reusing existing pilot figures.


As with any airplane, we recommend testing all surfaces prior to maiden. The linkages are set up at the factory (retracts are tested over two dozen times and servos for two minutes), but of course your model may require subtrimming in your radio to get everything lined up perfectly. Tug on the flap hinges, cycle gear, calibrate ESCs, etc.


If you ever need to remove the main wing for whatever reason, be it centering the Elev/Rudd servos or slicing in a bomb bay, etc, first remove the magnetic hatch that comprises the upper fuse over the wing:



And then unfasten the four screws, and lift up the wing assembly from the rear and you'll see this:





Here's a comparison photo of another Dynam twin aircraft, the Dynam 64mm A-10, tucked under the wing of the B-26 to give you an idea of the ground clearance... the B-26's wheels are on the ground even with its wing over the A-10's fuselage. Note, this specific photo shows a hand painted test sample, not the final production paint.



Speaking of final paint, this is the final paint, with a semi-matte aluminum silver and matte OD green. The matte black/white stripes are painted on, because the decals looked bad.




And finally, here's a fun photo showing the die used to cut the hole in the center of the plastic nose cone, through which the forward machine gun is mounted.



Ryan will be chiming in soon with his thoughts and video.

[borntoolate]

Alpha, again thanks for the extra info on this plane! Go ahead and seal that box up and ship it. You have my address!

Bob

[ruffneckx1]

KEWL :Cool:

Woody

[xviper]

As with some of the larger Dynam planes, the box is has big dimensions length and width but the height is short. This makes for a large area that can get punctured during shipping or bending inwards when the box is at the bottom of a tall stack of other boxes at the shipping facility. I've always thought that a thick, stiff piece of cardboard over the top (besides the box top and shipping box top) would be a good idea to add extra protection.

[dkalwishky]

Thanks for the info Alpha, this kind of information and accessibility are what keep me coming back to Motion.

[ruffneckx1]

Just a little something while we're waiting.

Woody

[DonRhone]

Just a little something while we're waiting.

Woody

Should not have to wait very long. Bang good is now shipping this plane so I would imagine the container for Motion RC is on its way as well.

[Alpha]

Hey there Don, I've been here at the Dynam factory for over a week, and aside from a very small quantity that went to Asian outlets and a handful of test models that went out for video earlier this month, the B-26s have NOT shipped en masse to most distributors including Motion RC. They're all still sitting in front of me as I type this. :)

In fact, those early units that were sent out a couple weeks ago before I arrived to greenlight our production will have several problems that I'm fixing here on the assembly line. One of the reasons I'm here is to evaluate and identify systemic issues before I greenlight the mass production. Just yesterday Ryan and I identified an issue where the dummy engine insert was rubbing on the motor. We've since created a new die and recut all of our B-26s here at the factory (see pictures below). Another example is that those early birds' steering servo and rudder servo work together instead of opposite, meaning pilots will need a servo reverser or seventh channel to mix an opposing function. We caught that issue and a few others and resolved there here at the factory on all of our units, so a reverser is not needed.

Of course all the Dynam resellers will benefit from our work here for B-26s that haven't yet left the factory, and we're happy to help. That being said, early buyers should know that the early units being sold already, if they truly are in stock at the reseller as of today, will NOT have the improvements I only caught and fixed at the factory this week.

I just don't want someone to receive one of those small number of early units from other resellers and think it represents what Motion RC will be receiving. It won't. Our shipment will leave in about a week, with all the improvements we've implemented over the past few days.


Attached, photos of the die I had made yesterday, 6/28/17, to enlarge the dummy engine's original hole.



Original hole rubbed against the motor. As of 6/29/27, all B-26s in the factory today and in the future will have the new, larger hole for adequate motor clearance shown on the left. This includes all the B-26s headed to Motion RC.



Evening test flight today of one of several blind samples pulled off the line here at Dynam's factories. Built and flown by myself.





Did I mention before, two pairs of CR props are included in the box?

[quitcherbitchen]

Thanks for the QC Alpha. That is why I am a Motion Customer.

[ruffneckx1]

:Cool: :Cool:


Woody

[borntoolate]

I saw the Bangood page and decided to wait to order from MotionRC even before the improvements you noted here, Alpha. Am I anxious to get a couple of these - oh yes! But I would rather buy from MotionRc simply because your attention to detail - as noted above in your post - and MotionRC's customer service - is second to none!

Bob

[CFIT rob]

As a casual rc enthusiast who rarely spends side money or family resources on new aircraft who has an extremely supportive wife i wou. ok, she quit looking over my shoulder. With the prospect of the 3d files (thank you wing nut) i am really getting excited about putting my heart into this one. Any advice on flight metal? I have a fl p38 to practice on. Read up on it but nothing better than first hand squawk. And thanks again alpha for bringing the industry up. I will continue to do my part to help you and ryan hopefully become rich men. Or at least get the kids thru college.

[xviper]

Any advice on flight metal? I have a fl p38 to practice on. Read up on it but nothing better than first hand squawk.

Not sure what you mean by "flight metal".

[dkalwishky]

Look at this website about "flight metal".

http://www.flitemetal.com/

From the website:

Metallic Finishing Systems for Flying Scale Models
Flight Metal is .0018 inch thick self-adhesive aluminum for replicating a full size aircraft finish. A typical square inch of weighs .0022222 ounce to the square inch. Flight Metal is not Mylar, polyester, poly-vinyl, poly-propylene, or an iron-on plastic.

[Alpha]

Thanks, Rob, we're just trying to do our part for the hobby as whole, since we're diehard hobbyists ourselves. Thank you for your support! We knew getting into this business that it is not for people wanting to get wealthy. But we are rich in gratification at the Fun we get to call "Work". That's worth more to me. Passion > Profit.

Regarding Flite Metal, I would not recommend it for a foamy (Xviper2, it's an expensive sheet of super thin aluminum, used on model cars, and, in some instances, fiberglass RC aircraft. Instead, I use the thinnest gauge 3M aluminum tape I can find. There are a couple of thicknesses, so double check before buying. After applying on the model in panels, the secret is masking off panels with large Post-It notes, and using a Scotch Brite pad to burnish the exposed panel in just ONE direction with a few light passes. Then, mask off the adjacent panel, and burnish it in a perpendicular direction to the panel next to it. I learned that from Brent Hecht (Corsair Nut) and Chris Wolfe (TheRCGeek). Experiment to achieve the finish and effect you want. If you want to add rivets, lightly depress the tape with a bamboo skewer. If creases develop due to wing flexing or dents, use the back of your fingernail to buff them flat again.

Here are some examples I did on one of my P-38s, Venom, and MiG-21. Notice how the sheen changes at different angles and in different light.