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Upgrade Paths, Explained

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  • Upgrade Paths, Explained

    LEVEL/VERSIONS

    Heng Long tanks are delivered in five levels or "Editions" of running gear. The "running gear" include five elements:

    1) The gears in the gearbox
    2) Drive sprocket
    3) Idler wheel
    4) Road wheels
    5) Tracks

    Essentially, the more of these elements that are metal, the higher the Edition, and thus the higher price. The five Editions of 1/16 Heng Long tanks are:

    Original Edition: All five of the Running Gear elements are plastic
    Upgrade Edition: Original, except the gears in the gearbox are upgraded to steel
    Upgrade A Edition: Upgrade, except drive sprocket is upgraded to cast metal
    Pro Edition: Upgrade, except the drive sprocket, idler wheel, and tracks are upgraded to cast metal. Note: Some tanks' Professional versions also include metal road wheels. See notes below.
    Pro Plus: Pro, plus a metal lower hull, CNC machined gearbox housing, torsion bar suspension, smoke/LED/recoil barrel, 360 degree rotation, dual smoker, dual speaker, onboard charging (Note: As of 11/2019 this version is only available via special order for specific types) --The Pro Plus will be omitted from the remainder of this article, given its rarity


    The four mass produced Editions have been further subdivided into two primary Editions - "Upgrade" Edition and "Professional" Edition. As of 1/2020, Motion RC will be stocking the Upgrade and Professional Editions only, the reasoning being that the Upgrade Edition now includes steel gears, so it is a worthy upgrade to the Original Edition's plastic gears. The Professional Editions, meanwhile, are suitable for the majority of drivers who prefer heavy weight and higher durability in exchange for higher cost and shorter run times on the stock battery. We believe that the Upgrade Edition and Professional Edition will likely satisfy the majority of most new RC tankers, so we're starting there. If you want to save a few bucks, let us know and we can stock the Original Edition.



    GENERAL UPGRADES

    General Upgrades, produced by both Heng Long itself and by the aftermarket industry, are organized into three types:

    1) Durability -- Improve material durability, reduce wear, extend lifetime.
    2) Performance -- Improve functional performance, realism, speed, etc
    3) Cosmetic --Improve scale fidelity

    In general, most Heng Long tanks generally do not require further durability upgrades, assuming they're operated within the recommendations of their level/version:

    Original: Ideal for running indoors and occasional light use outdoors on hard surfaces
    Upgrade: Ideal for the above, plus more aggressive use on light gravel, short grass, and short carpet
    Upgrade A: Same as Upgrade, perhaps with lower risk of spitting a track during aggressive spins
    Pro: Same as Upgrade, except perhaps lower risk of breaking a track, and higher road traction in certain conditions. Note: The heavier weight of the tank will reduce running time.

    It is important to note that all versions of tank, regardless of their metal content, are not recommended for use in mud, water, wet surfaces, tall rocks, or sand. RC tanks are *not* RC crawlers or off-road trucks; most if not all of the tank's tracks are recommended to be contacting the ground at all times, just like a real tank.
    Motors:

    380, 390, red and blue motors are still being evaluated. Red motors produce higher torque, blue motors produce higher speed. Both consume more amps than the stock 380 motors.

    Speakers:

    The Abrams, Challenger II, Leopard 2A6, and King Tiger can easily accommodate larger double speakers. Verify the plug and voltage match your TK6.

    Smoke Systems:

    Testing in progress.

    LED Lights:

    Heng Long's TK6 MFCB includes 8 powered LED ports that correspond to different functions. Two or three of these ports are used in the stock tank (headlights, tail lights, and machine gun), but the other ports are unused. Do not exceed 5V per port at 100mAh constant.
    SPECIFIC UPGRADES

    For users wanting to enhance specific aspects of their tank, the following upgrades have been tested and verified as being worth their cost. NOTE, this list will be updated over time, based on continuing testing, user feedback, and new products brought to market. Post your input in this thread, then we will verify and edit the list below:

    Heng Long 1/16 Tiger I Early, TK6:
    Durability and Performance: Not necessary, but helpful. Main Shaft Bearing Collar -- This stabilizes the main shaft with a wider collar and a steel bearing, which leads to reduced vibration and wear, and also slightly improved battery life due to lower rolling resistance. Installing the MSBC requires ten minutes to remove the track, unscrew the drive sprocket, install the MSBC (press-fit into existing shaft hole in the hull), then reconnecting the drive sprocket and track.

    Heng Long 1/16 Challenger II, TK6:
    Durability and Performance: Not necessary, but helpful. Main Shaft Bearing Collar -- This stabilizes the main shaft with a wider collar and a steel bearing, which leads to reduced vibration and wear, and also slightly improved battery life due to lower rolling resistance. Installing the MSBC is not a simple drop-in task like the Abrams. Rather, the Challenger II requires about 30 minutes of work with a dremel to remove the main shaft collar that is glued on at the factory (without a bearing), then replacing it with the aftermarket MSBC which does have a bearing in it.

    Heng Long 1/16 M1A2 Abrams, TK6:
    Durability and Performance: Helpful. Main Shaft Bearing Collar -- This stabilizes the main shaft with a wider collar and a steel bearing, which leads to reduced vibration and wear, and also slightly improved battery life due to lower rolling resistance. Installing the MSBC requires ten minutes to remove the track, unscrew the drive sprocket, install the MSBC (press-fit into existing shaft hole in the hull), then reconnecting the drive sprocket and track.

    Heng Long 1/16 Panzer III and IV, all variants, TK6:
    Metal Sprocket is a recommended upgrade when running on grass

    Heng Long 1/16 Panther G and Jagdpanther, TK6:


    Heng Long 1/16 King Tiger, TK6:


    Heng Long 1/16 T-34, TK6:


    Heng Long 1/16 KV-I, TK6:


    Heng Long 1/16 T-72, TK6:


    Heng Long 1/16 T-90, TK6:


    Heng Long 1/16 T-72, TK6:
    COMBOS TO AVOID

    1) Never install a metal track onto a tank with either plastic gearbox gears and/or plastic drive sprocket
    2) Never install an upgraded motor/gearbox combo (i.e. red motor or blue motor) without first
    3) When purchasing motor/gearbox/speaker/smoker upgrades, ensure they match the version of MFCB in your tank. All Motion RC's tanks use the latest TK6 MFCB. Earlier versions such as TK5.3 use different motor connections and wiring connections, so older TK5.3 upgrades are not drop-in fits with TK6 version tanks.

    GENERAL TIPS FOR INSTALLING UPGRADES

    1) Run your tank in its stock form to evaluate if it meets your needs. Tanks are easy to upgrade, so consider upgrading slowly over time, if/as the need arises. You may begin with a living room runner, then gradually find a club to IR battle with, at which point you may choose the Performance Upgrade path for your tank, or you may end up using the tank as a display, in which case the Cosmetic Upgrade path may be a better investment. We don't think every out of the box tank needs to be upgraded with hundreds of dollars of doodads. For most users, the Upgrade version and the Pro version will likely be the best balance of cost, durability, and performance.

    2) Much like always checking an airplane's CG after a power system upgrade, you must always check your tank tracks' tension after changing anything to do with the running gear (Motor/gearbox/shafts/drive sprocket/idler/road wheels/tracks). Click *here* for a tutorial to adjust track tension for ideal traction, reduced wear and noise, and longer life on your tank's running gear.

    3) The stock 7.4v 1800mAh Li-ion battery provides ~20-25 minutes of use on Original and Upgrade tanks. The heavier Pro versions can experience a shorter driving time due to their higher weight. For Pro versions, we recommend purchasing a spare stock battery, or investing in a higher capacity battery. All Heng Long 1/16 tanks except for the T-72 and T-90 can fit a 2s 4000mAh battery with ease. Measure your battery bay beforehand to account for adequate strain relief for the wiring and large Tamiya connector.
    Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

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  • #2
    Reserved
    Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

    Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

    Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

    Comment


    • #3
      Upgrade/Option Parts

      Alpha - will some of the option/upgrade parts be arriving with the initial Tank Supply? ie. 360 Turret Rings, Cannon Barrel LED/Smoker, etc

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Alpha,
        Love the forum and your written and youtube reviews on the Challenger 2 , Abrams, Leopard 2 etc. Brilliant!!
        Wish I had seen them before ordering, they would have confirmed my earlier research on this model. Your info on the new TK6 series tanks is the most comprehensive anywhere on the net. Well done!!

        I Just received my first and only RC Tank, a new Upgraded 2019 Challenger 2 at end of Nov. It has metal tracks,idlers and sprockets. Currently in pieces for further upgrades and a complete repaint.
        Just FYI and for other members, I found this para from above comments to be Wrong -

        "Installing the MSBC is not a simple drop-in task like the Abrams. Rather, the Challenger II requires about 30 minutes of work with a dremel to remove the main shaft collar that is glued on at the factory (without a bearing), then replacing it with the aftermarket MSBC which does have a bearing in it".

        My tank had a 12mm diameter hole around the drive shaft and these bearings from this link fit perfectly with a little gentle pressure to press down shaft and into hole. Took literally less than 60 sec.
        (The old model TK5.3 version Challenger 2 hull also had an open hole where bearings could be just pushed in easily). Not sure why the tank you received had a glued in plastic shaft collar?? Never ever saw that in a 2 yrs research on the net.

        https://www.rctanklegion.com/product...l-bearings-1-1
        Last edited by Sabre27; Dec 22, 2019, 10:21 PM. Reason: text corrections

        Comment


        • #5
          Sabre27 Welcome to Hobby Squawk and thank you for your kind words. We endeavor to be a dependable resource for the products we stock, and because I've been an avid RC tanker for many years, it made sense for me to buy one of each earlier this year during the run-up to announcing our distribution agreement with Heng Long. This helped us begin with the "data dump" you've seen here on Squawk, as we wanted to establish a beachhead of information that people can access to determine whether this is a part of the hobby they are interested in or not. I'm glad to see they're being read! I've driven every Heng Long, in every scale, from 1:30 to 1:6, and own over 20 of them along with several from other reputable manufacturers. In fact, I have almost as many tanks as I do airplanes in my house right now. Luckily tanks are much smaller than AL37s and F-22s and whatever else we're primed to announce, so I've got space. At least, for now..

          Thanks also for your feedback on your Challenger II. I've spent a lot of time at the Heng Long factory this year, and some of that has been used to standardize their production runs so that each run is identical to the former and the following. There are still some tweaks to go for the upgrade paths. Challenger II hull I received earlier this summer already had the block mounts glued in at the factory but without a bearing installed. This is, as you said, standard practice for TK5.3. The bearing block mount assembly (which includes a pre-installed bearing) is available separately as an upgrade for the Challenger II, but unlike the Abrams, which has no block mounted and thus the assembly drops right in, my Challenger II had the mount glued in. This meant I would need to remove the bearing from the upgrade block, and press it into the already installed block. My problem with that is the bearing may slip out, because there isn't a ridge to hold it in place. I'm working with Heng Long to redesign those blocks to incorporate a sandwiched cover to ensure the bearing doesn't slip out of the block. It isn't ready yet, which is why it isn't listed on our website. In time!

          In the meantime, enjoy your Challenger II! You chose wisely; it is a great running tank and your research paid off. Please consider posting any tips, questions, or feedback in the Challenger II thread so the rest of us can learn.

          While we're on the subject of upgrade paths, I can also confirm that we've decided to sunset some of the older motor upgrade paths, in favor of new options. The new upgrade tree will include both low cost options for tankers wanting to get a bit more grunt out of their stock tanks, all the way up to expensive overhauls that I suspect only a few will have interest in. It's all about providing options, then letting us as hobbyists decide. More info on that to come, but here's a quick teaser.

          Click image for larger version

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          Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

          Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

          Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

          Comment


          • #6
            Oh boy! A cross drive tranny.
            Now that brings up way more questions than answers. That takes a whole different crontol from an MFU to drive than opposing trannys do. The benefit is a tank that drives straight instead of pulling to one side from an un matched pair of gear boxes but the draw back is they turn the wrong, or opposite way from normal when backing up.
            I know they are quite complicated but usually quieter. Last i looked that type of tranny is costly over standard paired tranny sets.
            Popularity is so-so with folks, tamiya is including them in the new modern tanks. Im on the fence about it over standard paired trannys still, not having seen any major benefit with the design and cost vs standard trannys.
            RC tank parts and accessories I make
            www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

            Comment


            • #7
              Wow this is so in-depth thanks Alpha I’ve been trying to rapmy head around all the editions and this has really cleared it up. I’m definitely thinking my first few that are my favorite tanks from my want list that I think will see the most use will be professional. After that as I’m collecting more of my shelf models I will probably end up with the standard upgrade tanks. I’m definitely happy your only offering the metal gear box I think that’s a great choice to save people headaches. Anyway super excited and thanks for the update

              Comment


              • #8
                "All Heng Long 1/16 tanks except for the T-72 and T-90 can fit a 2s 4000mAh battery with ease. Measure your battery bay beforehand to account for adequate strain relief for the wiring and large Tamiya connector."


                Beautiful.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Are there any operational advantages to metal tracks besides looking cool and making the tank heavier?

                  On face value they're more durable, but are there limitations to the durability of the plastic tracks?

                  Also, drop your tips for the T-90. It's clearly the coolest looking tank in the fleet!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Just a little question, would the 5.3 mfu handle the extra power of the red motors

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by saunderspeter071@gmail.com View Post
                      Just a little question, would the 5.3 mfu handle the extra power of the red motors
                      Yes.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mshagg View Post
                        Are there any operational advantages to metal tracks besides looking cool and making the tank heavier?

                        On face value they're more durable, but are there limitations to the durability of the plastic tracks?

                        Also, drop your tips for the T-90. It's clearly the coolest looking tank in the fleet!
                        I have been driving my "Upgrade" plastic track Heng Long Challenger II around pretty hard and I can tell that the tracks are very tough. Even with the upgraded high torque Red Motors, I installed. I think the metal version is beneficial if you are going to run your tank in more challenging terrain. Where you are more likely to get rocks and sand between the tracks and main drive sprocket. But as things wear out I will replace them with metal parts.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Hello all, I am Gerard from Sydney, Australia, a new member and new in RC tanks. I have 3 HL new version V6.0 tanks. 1 x Sherman and 2 x Abrams - just love the Abrams. Just a suggestion: It is worth removing the battery compartment to give more space and also to attach magnets in place of the hull and chassis mounting screws. The only place I am not able to change to magnets is the Sherman turret due to insufficient room to trim the plastic post for the magnets. (I used to try to fly rc helis but feel that at my age, need to be more grounded, hence the shift to tanks. Still have many T-Rex 450 spares that needs a new home.) I am getting help to replace the V6.0 with Clark MFU for one of the Abrams. This has been a very interesting experience.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Gerard Teo Hi Gerard! Welcome to Hobby Squawk!

                            I don't usually have much luck with installing magnets to make the upper hull removable. I usually end up with a poorly aligned fit, or the magnets themselves don't seem to be as reliable in holding down the upper hull when I' bouncing around. Granted, others have had much more success that I have, so I'm the odd man out.

                            Please consider starting a new, separate thread regarding your Clark MFU install. I know myself and several others would be interested in seeing your progress and any insight you could provide along the way.

                            Thank you!
                            Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream

                            Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord

                            Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Hello Alpha,

                              Is there a way to custom order the Pro Plus version but without electronics installed? For me, building and customizing a model is part of the fun. I had plans to install either a Clark MFU or ELMod electronics to the model, and drive the turret with a continuous rotation servo with a gyro for stabilization. But the condition is that the baseline model and working mechanics needs to be of high quality worthy of custom mods. The Pro Plus with metal chassis and 360 rotation turret sounds like the perfect candidate. Not sure about the price but it is still probably hundreds of dollars cheaper than a Tamiya kit, which is mostly plastic.

                              Thanks,
                              Bo

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                Originally posted by Flanker271 View Post
                                Hello Alpha,

                                Is there a way to custom order the Pro Plus version but without electronics installed? For me, building and customizing a model is part of the fun. I had plans to install either a Clark MFU or ELMod electronics to the model, and drive the turret with a continuous rotation servo with a gyro for stabilization. But the condition is that the baseline model and working mechanics needs to be of high quality worthy of custom mods. The Pro Plus with metal chassis and 360 rotation turret sounds like the perfect candidate. Not sure about the price but it is still probably hundreds of dollars cheaper than a Tamiya kit, which is mostly plastic.

                                Thanks,
                                Bo
                                The base “plastic hull” Heng Long tanks are quite stout. They are built like a unibody where the upper and lower hulls work together to make a rather rigid body. In fact they are often more rigid then the thin aluminum hulls the expensive Tamiya kits use.

                                Depending on the tank many of the new 6.0 Heng Longs now come with adjustable idlers that are actually equal too or better then the ones Tamiya tanks uses in their kits.

                                Suspension wise the stock set up is also quite good and becomes even better if upgraded to the metal arms and road wheels. The suspensions are adjustable to match the weight of the tank to the performance desired, soft, medium, heavy and in between. That is not easily done with the Pro Plus or Tamiya kits.

                                Turret rotation can be made much faster and smoother with a low cost bearing turret ring and high speed turret rotation gear box. Both of which are direct fit upgrades.

                                Gearboxes? Well there are a number of aftermarket ones available including the ones used in the Pro Plus lower hulls that are outstanding in both durability and smooth performance. Personally I feel the ones used in the Pro Plus hulls (being 4:1) make the tanks too slow for the Abrams and T90/72. Though fine for the Tiger.

                                You could easily have a completely built up super tough tank ready to go for about the price of the Pro Plus hull alone. Because the Pro Plus is metal hulled does not mean it is necessarily a better starting point.

                                I have plenty of photos and videos of the stock hull Heng Long tanks get beat up and coming back for more on my Instagram @ fsttanks if you are interested.

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  Thanks, I will take a look at your instagram pictures.

                                  Also did not know about the adjustable suspension based on tank weight, that's definitely a plus.

                                  Where can we find the bearing turret ring and high speed gearbox upgrades?

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    Originally posted by Flanker271 View Post
                                    Thanks, I will take a look at your instagram pictures.

                                    Also did not know about the adjustable suspension based on tank weight, that's definitely a plus.

                                    Where can we find the bearing turret ring and high speed gearbox upgrades?
                                    There are a number of vendors for them. The easiest to start with are DKLMRC.com or on EBay Tucan Hobby. I am hoping 🤞🤞 MotionRC will be stocking them soon as well.

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      I have a Mato KT with metal tracks, sprocket and idler. Is it worth upgrading the road wheels to metal as well?

                                      Comment


                                      • #20
                                        Originally posted by bcmfin View Post
                                        I have a Mato KT with metal tracks, sprocket and idler. Is it worth upgrading the road wheels to metal as well?
                                        Yes and No. All depends on how you use your tank. If it is a simple display tank and just run occasionally save the money and stick with the plastic. But if you run it in the dirt and want to drive it hard then upgrade to metal.

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