Originally posted by Rubicon99
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Discussion: Heng Long's 1/16 scale M1A2 Abrams RTR, Upgrade Edition!
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Originally posted by Alpha;n227419
Just to clarify, you received an Abrams from that seller with the latest hull, but would you also please confirm if you have the latest version of TK? The easiest way to tell is to confirm that you have adjustable track recoil. Tap the K button and S button
at the same time, and see if the track recoil changes. You should have four levels of track recoil.
Whoever that CS guy was, he was
obviously guessing when he said that the TK6 doesn't require an on/off switch. It does. He probably just didn't know where the switch
was located. Glad Rubicon99 got you sorted out!
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Originally posted by JDMac761stBP View Post
Yes. It has the adjustable tank recoil function. My Sherman and King Tiger have the same function. On a side note. During IR battles, the King Tiger can hit from a longer distance than the other two tanks. Twenty to twenty-five feet consistently. Shouldn't all the tanks register hits from the same distance?
Were the IR receiver is located also has a lot to do with it. The Abrams for example is placed to the rear of the turret and blocked by hatches, optics and guns. They are providing hard to hit in this area. Also we have found that the IR receivers have to be shot at the base not at the dome. So aiming low usually produces the best results. Moving the IR receivers to the forward half of the turret greatly improves overall reliability in taking hits.
Fortunately adding a small magnet inside the turrets forward section is relatively easy and will work as a new IR attachment point just like the stock one.
There are some more nuances but they should be discussed in another already existing thread “IR Battle System” so we keep this thread on topic.
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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Yes and no. 20 feet is a really short distance so I am assuming you are outside in direct sunlight or bright overcast.
Were the IR receiver is located also has a lot to do with it. The Abrams for example is placed to the rear of the turret and blocked by hatches, optics and guns. They are providing hard to hit in this area. Also we have found that the IR receivers have to be shot at the base not at the dome. So aiming low usually produces the best results. Moving the IR receivers to the forward half of the turret greatly improves overall reliability in taking hits.
Fortunately adding a small magnet inside the turrets forward section is relatively easy and will work as a new IR attachment point just like the stock one.
There are some more nuances but they should be discussed in another already existing thread “IR Battle System” so we keep this thread on topic.
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Originally posted by Draig73 View PostSend help, my left track keeps doing this. It didn’t do this when I first got it. The other track is working perfectly but this one just suddenly started to do this. Do I just adjust the tension of the track?
If that is not it, then you might be seeing what is called “track stretch” and happened when the tracks start to wear in. It will continue over the life of the tracks. In this case you would simply adjust the idler wheel one notch forward. Based on your photo I doubt that this is your issue. I would need to see the main body of the track section that contacts the ground while the tank is suspended off the ground. The amount of slack in the track “hang down” would be helpful to see to properly judge you track tension.
Also you IMO you would be best served to remove the inside retaining ring (one closet to hull) on the sprocket as this will keep debris from getting clogged between the rings and causing the “riding up” effect similar to that seen in your photo.
Hope this helps with some starting points.
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Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
First make sure the screw holding the sprocket on is tight. They do at times loosen and cause the sprocket to spread or wobble.
If that is not it, then you might be seeing what is called “track stretch” and happened when the tracks start to wear in. It will continue over the life of the tracks. In this case you would simply adjust the idler wheel one notch forward. Based on your photo I doubt that this is your issue. I would need to see the main body of the track section that contacts the ground while the tank is suspended off the ground. The amount of slack in the track “hang down” would be helpful to see to properly judge you track tension.
Also you IMO you would be best served to remove the inside retaining ring (one closet to hull) on the sprocket as this will keep debris from getting clogged between the rings and causing the “riding up” effect similar to that seen in your photo.
Hope this helps with some starting points.
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Tankme Welcome to Hobby Squawk, Tankme! Which version of tank do you have, and where did you purchase it? For all of my TK6-equipped tanks, I press the start button briefly. It doesn't need to be pressed and held.
Do you have multiple tanks?
Also, depending on the version of MFCB inside the tank, you should also be able to "rebind" the radio to the tank.Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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From nearly all ww2 planes and nearly all freewing jets from motion I'm on my path to all tanks from motion. I'm so excited that my favorite retailer is now pushing hang long tanks.
I ordered the Abrams upgrade version (plastic tracks) I've owned am Abrams a few years ago and I must say I put it through it's paces. I was recovering from an injury so I installed an fpv system and drove around my house through grass while laying in bed. The tracks never gave me an issue in fact the tank itself never gave me an issue. I passed it along to my nephew and now I'm so pleased that it has the actual turbine sound instead of the combustion engine sound.
I also ordered a panzer 4 f2 but off eBay and the description claims it's a 6.0v. We'll see.
glad to have joined the club.
p.s I'm looking for a quick easy upgrade for a little more top end. Will adding these motors do the trick?
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Originally posted by Woohoo\o/ View PostFrom nearly all ww2 planes and nearly all freewing jets from motion I'm on my path to all tanks from motion. I'm so excited that my favorite retailer is now pushing hang long tanks.
I ordered the Abrams upgrade version (plastic tracks) I've owned am Abrams a few years ago and I must say I put it through it's paces. I was recovering from an injury so I installed an fpv system and drove around my house through grass while laying in bed. The tracks never gave me an issue in fact the tank itself never gave me an issue. I passed it along to my nephew and now I'm so pleased that it has the actual turbine sound instead of the combustion engine sound.
I also ordered a panzer 4 f2 but off eBay and the description claims it's a 6.0v. We'll see.
glad to have joined the club.
p.s I'm looking for a quick easy upgrade for a little more top end. Will adding these motors do the trick?
https://m.banggood.com/Heng-Long-116...p-1300288.html
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Originally posted by Woohoo\o/ View PostOh sorry I was talking about the Abrams.
banggood has two red motors. One is $6 and the other is $10. I don't understand the difference between the two. Here's the link to the $10 red motor.
https://m.banggood.com/Heng-Long-Bru...pupStatedetail
Sometimes they are imitation and sometimes they are the real motors. I have been buying mine from TucanHobby either on EBay or their direct web site and have had good luck. When Motion RC gets theirs in I will be stocking up. Once you try red 390 motors there is no going back to 380s
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