When I follow the instructions to change my throttle stick to the left by holding the "G" button and pushing the left stick down I get a beep but not a dong tone. And nothing changes. This works fine on my other tanks. Is there some other setting I am missing?
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Discussion: Heng Long's 1/16 scale M1A2 Abrams RTR, Upgrade Edition!
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Originally posted by Alpha View PostJDMac761stBP Another member here bought an Abrams for around $250 from a local hobby store reasoning it was the TK6, as I presumed it was too based on the price. However I believe he ended up returning it after discovering that it was in fact an obsolete 5.3 version. Accordingly, unfortunately everyone should be wary of what they're buying, and double-check before purchasing from a local store or even Amazon. Heng Long told me directly to my face that their own Amazon store is mostly being used to sell off the TK5.3, since they're fine in that configuration for most budget-minded drivers. But for actual RC Hobby tankers, the TK6 is truly leaps and bounds ahead of the earlier TK5 series. In summary, if shopping online or at a store this season for Heng Long tanks, keep in mind that just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's the latest TK6 version, so please ask the seller to clarify first! I'd hate to see anyone overpay for something they didn't want.
To be clear, all of Motion RC's tanks use the latest TK6. We are not bringing in anything with the older electronics.
...shocktrooper out....
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shocktrooper Welcome back home! I'm glad to see you're back in action and enjoy your T-90 and Leopard. More tanks on the way, yes and yes! A Vulcan... I will take that under advisement...
JoeM723 I posted this in my Abrams Pro Plus Customization thread. I designed a 3D Printed replacement for the Abrams' CITV that could fit my specific FPV camera, which is a prototype and not on the market. Which camera do you have?Live Q&A every Tuesday and Friday at 9pm EST on my Twitch Livestream
Live chat with me and other RC Nuts on my Discord
Camp my Instagram @Alpha.Makes
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Originally posted by karltrek View PostWhen I follow the instructions to change my throttle stick to the left by holding the "G" button and pushing the left stick down I get a beep but not a dong tone. And nothing changes. This works fine on my other tanks. Is there some other setting I am missing?
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Originally posted by Woohoo\o/ View PostIs there a way i can use my own transmitter (flysky) to work with my Abrams?
also I would sure like to swap throttle control to the left stick.
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Originally posted by RCGuy83 View Post
I don't think you can bind other transmitters to the tank but here are the instructions for swapping stick functions to put throttle on the left.
Honestly, after driving the tanks around with the sticks swapped I ended up moving them back to the stock settings. I kept moving the turret.
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I have two questions regarding the HL Abrams. I tried googling this but no joy. First, hat are the three louvred squares mounted around the turret? Second, what is the function of the two rectangles on the front of the turret? WW2 tanks I know, but not the M1! Thanks.Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Originally posted by SoCalBobS View PostI have two questions regarding the HL Abrams. I tried googling this but no joy. First, hat are the three louvred squares mounted around the turret? Second, what is the function of the two rectangles on the front of the turret? WW2 tanks I know, but not the M1! Thanks.
As I understand it, basically the rectangles on the forward turret glances are the areas where the DU armor is the thickest. Not all Abrams tanks have DU armor and you will often see foreign operated Abrams without the rectangles. Typically DU armor is held for US and Tier 1 foreign partner countries only.
A follow on question. Why do we make these DU panel so obvious? My theory is it is on purpose as they make great contrasting aiming points for enemy gunners. Where would you want an enemy gunner to shoot if your tank became exposed and he had to take a quick shot? The strongest part of the armor which just happens to be the best aiming point to get a good sight picture on and fire as quickly as possible.
There is precedence of obvious aiming points used by enemy gunners. Such as in WW2 with the Sherman’s and the huge white stars on the front and sides. These made great aiming points for Germany gunners and as such many crews painted over them not long after the invasion of France. The Sherman of course did not have strong armor and the crews did not want to make it easier for enemy gunners to get solid hits.
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Saw a picture of this experimental new paint scheme called TALON and decided I had to make it happen (guess who may have ordered a NATO camo Abrams because he can't stop buying tanks...)
Anyone have any recommendations for these paint shades, or good places I can search for paints? I find a lot of sites don't have good extra tools for searching things like paint
Also, does anyone know what the procedure is for the ERA chunks when it comes to painting? Do they match the underlying pattern, or just paint close enough, or just all one color or what? I have a detail set coming to add the TUSK armor update, which is what started me on the path of trying to identify the paint job for a tank that just shipped today lol
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Originally posted by pappy3122 View Posta few questions, one what paint would you use for metal road wheels? where can I get the metal tracks with the rubber pads, mine are just metal? is it possible to blue the tracks black?
The metal rubber padded tracks can be found on EBay. Toucan Hobbies carries them as well as a few others. They run about $90. Be aware they often need to be adjusted for overall length and then you will need to use the idler tensioner on the tank to make final adjustments. When done correctly they run great and are all but indestructible.
Yes you can use “gun blue” to blacken the tracks I do it to all my metal tracks. It will wear off high/contact point over time but does so just like metal wears on real tank and looks pretty good as they wear.
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