You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

The basic about Heng Long RC tank battery packs

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #21
    I used N52 rated magnets which are very strong. In the pic below it shows the actual hardware used for my builds. The magnets are that far apart or else they will fly toward each other. Each magnet is 10mm in diameter by 3mm high with an M3 sized hole. Pan head screws (countersunk M3s would work better) are M3 type mated to an M3 brass 5mm standoff since it is smaller than an M3 nut and fits in the plastic screw channels where a regular M3 nut would not. The other countersunk wood screw is a #4x1/2" size. The top screw bosses have to be cut down to allow for the magnets. The bottoms don't, but I do remove the lip from the edge using a nippers.

    With all those 10mm N52 neodymium magnets holding the hull on, it only separates when I want it to. I do the same treatment to the turret. You can see from the turret bottom pic how the brass standoff is used as a nut. Since they are countersunk magnets you need to buy a north and a south type for them to stick together:

    https://jc-magnetics.com/Magnet-N52-...scription=true
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #22
      Originally posted by tank_me View Post
      I used N52 rated magnets which are very strong. In the pic below it shows the actual hardware used for my builds. The magnets are that far apart or else they will fly toward each other. Each magnet is 10mm in diameter by 3mm high with an M3 sized hole. Pan head screws (countersunk M3s would work better) are M3 type mated to an M3 brass 5mm standoff since it is smaller than an M3 nut and fits in the plastic screw channels where a regular M3 nut would not. The other countersunk wood screw is a #4x1/2" size. The top screw bosses have to be cut down to allow for the magnets. The bottoms don't, but I do remove the lip from the edge using a nippers.

      With all those 10mm N52 neodymium magnets holding the hull on, it only separates when I want it to. I do the same treatment to the turret. You can see from the turret bottom pic how the brass standoff is used as a nut. Since they are countersunk magnets you need to buy a north and a south type for them to stick together:

      https://jc-magnetics.com/Magnet-N52-...scription=true
      Thank you for sharing. Very, very helpful information. I assume that the counter sink part will face each other so I need half in N pole and half in S pole. 25 pieces of each kind are $30 total with free shipping. Can you confirm that. (The polarity part.)

      I found similar neodymium magnet at Amazon for much cheaper. Not knowing how good they are, I decide to get them from your supplier. I know that those magnet you got work very well.

      Comment


      • #23
        Yes to half N half S. I got mine from Amazon and they work perfectly. BUT... they were supposed to be half N and half S and they gave me more of one than the other...

        Comment


        • #24
          Originally posted by Evan D View Post
          Yes to half N half S. I got mine from Amazon and they work perfectly. BUT... they were supposed to be half N and half S and they gave me more of one than the other...
          Whose magnet did you get? I am getting the JC-Magnetics one for sure and they are not expensive. I am curious about how an Amazon seller's will compare to them in strength. Yours is a good candidate for comparison since it works for you.

          Comment


          • #25
            I recommend K&J Magnetics; great selection, quick shipping, good prices. ick your size and quantity, none of the "assortment packs".
            Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

            Comment


            • #26
              Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post
              I recommend K&J Magnetics; great selection, quick shipping, good prices. ick your size and quantity, none of the "assortment packs".
              Thanks. I already ordered from the JC Magnetics. Both JC Magnetics and K&J Magnetics identify their strong N52 magnet. On Amazon, it is a jungle out there. Seller won't tell buyer what their magnet are.

              Comment


              • #27
                Sorry, eBay... 5-100 N52 Super Strong Block Round Hole Hook Fridge Rare Earth Neodymium Magnets | eBay

                Originally posted by keilau View Post

                Whose magnet did you get? I am getting the JC-Magnetics one for sure and they are not expensive. I am curious about how an Amazon seller's will compare to them in strength. Yours is a good candidate for comparison since it works for you.

                Comment


                • #28
                  Originally posted by keilau View Post

                  Thank you for sharing. Very, very helpful information. I assume that the counter sink part will face each other so I need half in N pole and half in S pole. 25 pieces of each kind are $30 total with free shipping. Can you confirm that. (The polarity part.)

                  I found similar neodymium magnet at Amazon for much cheaper. Not knowing how good they are, I decide to get them from your supplier. I know that those magnet you got work very well.
                  As others have said, yes the countersunk heads of the screws then mate up with each other. I bought mine from JC in bulk (like 50 of each pole north and south) because they get cheaper the more you buy and I knew I would use them on a bunch of tanks. That purchase has magnetized the Bulldog (body and turret), Pershing (body and turret), IS-2 (turret only), T34/85 turret, Hooben ZTZ-99A (body and turret), HL ZTZ-99 (body and turret), and the T-72 turret so far. I still have some left. Can you get away with using less magnets than I do? I'm sure you could, but I like to make sure I have solid connections. Most of my tanks are pretty heavy and I can lift the tank by the magnetized upper hull without them separating. The closer and flatter the magnets fit together, the stronger they hold. I like connecting them with screws rather than CA glue or epoxy so that I can remove them if one breaks and they don't come off during use. I have some other magnets that are epoxied or used CA and it seems there are a few of them I'm always having to reattach. I only shorten the upper screw boss and the great thing is that if you accidentally cut off too much, you can install a washer under the magnet to fix it.

                  You can see from the pic mine are completely flush fitting with each other once installed. In the second pic it shows the lip on the bottom that gets removed (says "make flat").
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #29
                    Originally posted by tank_me View Post

                    You can see from the pic mine are completely flush fitting with each other once installed. In the second pic it shows the lip on the bottom that gets removed (says "make flat").
                    It sounds like that you do not remove any material of the top post. The magnets total 6 mm can flush fit with each other when the bottom post is made flat?

                    Comment


                    • #30
                      I only removed the "rim" from the bottom post. The top post was shortened to make room for both magnets.

                      Comment


                      • #31
                        Originally posted by tank_me View Post
                        I only removed the "rim" from the bottom post. The top post was shortened to make room for both magnets.
                        I have been looking at my Pershing for 3 days and still couldn't figure out a good way to attach the magnet to the lower post except using CA glue. The hole on the magnet is for M3 screw which is too small for the pre-drilled hole on the bottom post. The long bottom post also exclude the use of machine screw and nut. Your tip on this?

                        Comment


                        • #32
                          I had a small cylindrical piece of plastic I shoved up the post from the bottom that the screw from the top bit into. They were made from model airplane push rods.

                          Comment


                          • #33
                            Originally posted by Evan D View Post
                            I had a small cylindrical piece of plastic I shoved up the post from the bottom that the screw from the top bit into. They were made from model airplane push rods.
                            My retired engineering brain just does not work very well. The creativity has left me since retirement. Thank you very much for the tip.

                            Comment


                            • #34
                              My first magnetization project for the HL tank is a complete failure. I picked the Pershing as my first experiment because it had 7 attachment points. I choose the rear center and 2 middle forward for initial installation. Mechanically, it worked perfectly. The tank closed tight with perfect alignment. When I turned it on, I first noticed the engine sound to be strange. It fired up (RC link) ok. Then, the head light started flashing. When I ran the tank, it moved slowly and the turns were intermittent. Something is NOT right. And I have a suspect.
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	magnet1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	233.4 KB ID:	363585
                              The right magnet is very close to the speaker. Both magnets are too close to the 6.0S MFU.

                              I removed both of these magnets (upper and lower), but left the rear center one in place. I close the tank and it runs normally. I am greatly relieved. No permanent magnetization of the MFU!

                              Some of you may remember that this 2005 HL Pershing has undergone a series of upgrades. I removed the original speaker to make room for the MFU at the tank front. A new smaller speaker was put to the middle side.
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_5130.jpg Views:	0 Size:	192.5 KB ID:	363586
                              Now, feeling confident about installing the magnets, I plan to do it on the Leopard 2A6, T34 and Sherman where I do not expect the same problem as the Pershing.

                              Comment


                              • #35
                                I've never had the magnets interfere with my electronics, but they are powerful so I can see how they could. I guess with my Pershing not having the battery box, the electronics get mounted on the floor of the hull pretty far from the magnets. Your hull does have a different arrangement of the magnets than mine does as mine only has 6 (two rear, two side, and two front). My Pershing is much newer though. My guess would be yours is one of the older "Snow Leopards" they marketed. Not sure why they called them that as I've never heard the Pershing called that...EVER or anything even close to that.

                                Comment


                                • #36
                                  As the story goes, the HL product development department had a Korean war picture of the Pershing with the word "Snow Leopard" painted on the track skirt. It was probably a field batterion nickname. HL copied the photo and had been using it on all their early packaging.
                                  Click image for larger version

Name:	65924.jpg
Views:	354
Size:	42.8 KB
ID:	363608

                                  Comment


                                  • #37
                                    There is few doubt that Heng Long used the Tamiya tank kit to save cost of injection mold design and launch a successful tank series using low cost mechanical and electronic parts. Tamiya call their kit "M26 Pershing T26E3". There was no mention of the Pershing name anywhere in the Heng Long manual, only Snow Leopard.
                                    Click image for larger version  Name:	tamiyamanualcover.jpg Views:	0 Size:	71.7 KB ID:	363687Click image for larger version  Name:	HLmanualcover.jpg Views:	0 Size:	50.7 KB ID:	363688
                                    If you have a late model HL Pershing, I will be interested in exchange PDF copy of our manual. PM me if interested. The inside of a 2005 HL Snow Leopard using TK-27 RC looks like this:
                                    Click image for larger version

Name:	HLpershing_TK27inside.jpg
Views:	334
Size:	127.3 KB
ID:	363692

                                    Comment


                                    • #38
                                      Originally posted by keilau View Post
                                      My first magnetization project for the HL tank is a complete failure. I picked the Pershing as my first experiment because it had 7 attachment points. I choose the rear center and 2 middle forward for initial installation. Mechanically, it worked perfectly. The tank closed tight with perfect alignment. When I turned it on, I first noticed the engine sound to be strange. It fired up (RC link) ok. Then, the head light started flashing. When I ran the tank, it moved slowly and the turns were intermittent. Something is NOT right. And I have a suspect.
                                      Click image for larger version Name:	magnet1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	233.4 KB ID:	363585
                                      The right magnet is very close to the speaker. Both magnets are too close to the 6.0S MFU.

                                      I removed both of these magnets (upper and lower), but left the rear center one in place. I close the tank and it runs normally. I am greatly relieved. No permanent magnetization of the MFU!

                                      Some of you may remember that this 2005 HL Pershing has undergone a series of upgrades. I removed the original speaker to make room for the MFU at the tank front. A new smaller speaker was put to the middle side.
                                      Click image for larger version Name:	IMG_5130.jpg Views:	0 Size:	192.5 KB ID:	363586
                                      Now, feeling confident about installing the magnets, I plan to do it on the Leopard 2A6, T34 and Sherman where I do not expect the same problem as the Pershing.
                                      The second magnetization project for the HL Sherman tank (3898-1) is a reasonable success. It is a late HL production with XT-60 connector. It has only 4 connecting poles, but has the best upper and lower chassis fit among 5 Heng Long tanks that I have.
                                      Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_5132.jpg Views:	0 Size:	161.1 KB ID:	364830Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_5133.jpg Views:	0 Size:	81.4 KB ID:	364829
                                      The Sherman chassis is relatively small so the lower posts are part of the lower chassis wheel well wall. I cannot remove the fence ring on the lower post. I have to remove 7.5 mm from the upper post, compared to 5.5 mm on other tank. I added a dope of CA glue to the lower magnet base for insurance. I am very happy with the overall result. Thank you, tank_me and evan D.

                                      Originally, I wanted to use the cut-off piece of the upper post for the lower post push rod. It does not work. The lower post well is tapper down to 3/16" which is smaller than the upper post. Drilling the pilot hole for the screw on the push rod is difficult. I drilled out a 3/16" hole on a 2x4 as the push rod holder. Any easy trick?

                                      Comment


                                      • #39
                                        Originally posted by tank_me View Post

                                        This was the seller I got mine from. The do state they are NCR18650GA which are Sanyo or Panasonic cells, but the pack I opened was LGs. I chose these because they had the XT60 connector on them and have a balance plug for charging.

                                        I ordered 3 of this KLUOSI 2S2P Lithium Ion battery pack just before Christmas. I received the package yesterday in a thick foam box wrapped in plastic bag. The package is good and shipping took less than 4 weeks. I paid US $46.43 including free shipping. The drawback is that it doesn't fit the Heng Long battery compartment as is.
                                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5134.jpg
Views:	294
Size:	105.3 KB
ID:	367464
                                        The packs arrived fully charged as indicated by the 8.14 volts after unpacking. I discharged it to 6.2 volts and let them sit at room temperature overnight. The discharge took more than 6 hours at 0.7A. A good sign that the capacity is good. I cannot verify that the individual cells were NCR18650GA. You can see the marking on the cell purple cover on the picture above. I weighted each cell at 46 grams which is another very good sign. (Cheap, low capacity Li-Ion cell usually weights less than 41 grams.) I guess that these are higher quality home grown Li-Ion cells of 2200 mAh from China. My better imported Li-Ion usually weight 47-51 grams.

                                        This morning, I started charging the fully depleted Li-Ion pack. It charged to 3640 mAh at 8.2 volts and 3984 mAh at 8.4 volts. It is an honest 4 Ah pack, but not 7 Ah as claimed. At its price, it is an excellent buy.

                                        Next, I will try to rearrange it to the HL pack configuration. If successful, each of this pack can last a full battle day.
                                        Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5135.jpg
Views:	420
Size:	135.2 KB
ID:	367465Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5136.jpg
Views:	423
Size:	134.1 KB
ID:	367466
                                        I need to separate the upper 2 cells from the lower 2 cells and add an extension wire to the negative pole. I need to be careful not to damage the sleeves of the individual cell batteries. Folding them to make a long pack and rewrap should be easy. Please, stay tune.

                                        Comment


                                        • #40
                                          Thanks for posting. I bought a battery spot welder recently to make my own packs and bought the batteries Panasonics. Rebuilt my black n decker hand vacuum that died and now it has tons of power. The old cells in the vacuum only lasted on the discharger for 4 hours. In the vacuum. 1 minute. New batteries tested on the discharger lasted almost 7 hours. So I guess mine are honest. I wouldn't trust Aliexpress for batteries. I bought mine from some place in Florida that a friend recommended. I bought extra cells to make tank batteries. 15c rating 18650 cells Need to buy wrapping to make the tank batteries. FYI I tried to solder before the spot welder. It was more hassle then it was worth. I took it all apart and got the spot welder. I got nickle 1.5mm connector foil and it worked great in the vacuum.
                                          Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                                          Comment

                                          Working...
                                          X