CS-TK26 main Board

[SoCalBobS]

I posted our question on the FB Hong Kong RC Tank Group. Hopefully they'll know.

[SoCalBobS]

Last night I talked to Carson of DKLMRC. I got some answers, some of which raised more questions.

There is no bind process. Tx and Rx come bound from the factory. More specifically, there is an auto-bind process. Turn them both on and they bind.

So you see the questions, right? Can you use one Tx for more than one tank, simply by turning one tank off and the other tank on? What happens if I turn off my Tx while my tank is still on, and someone else turns on their Tx? Will my tank be controlled by someone else? What happens at a battle event where there are a dozen tankers using this product?

Carson has a bunch of CS-26's and will experiment and get back to me. I also posted a question about this on the Hong Kong Tank Group. I hope it can be resolved, since the Rx's have a lot capabilities. If not, this product could be a dead end. Let's wait and see.

[Barmonkey]

Last night I talked to Carson of DKLMRC. I got some answers, some of which raised more questions.

There is no bind process. Tx and Rx come bound from the factory. More specifically, there is an auto-bind process. Turn them both on and they bind.

So you see the questions, right? Can you use one Tx for more than one tank, simply by turning one tank off and the other tank on? What happens if I turn off my Tx while my tank is still on, and someone else turns on their Tx? Will my tank be controlled by someone else? What happens at a battle event where there are a dozen tankers using this product?

Carson has a bunch of CS-26's and will experiment and get back to me. I also posted a question about this on the Hong Kong Tank Group. I hope it can be resolved, since the Rx's have a lot capabilities. If not, this product could be a dead end. Let's wait and see.

Thanks for the update. I do have a question: Is this compatible with the Heng Long battle system?

[SoCalBobS]

Thanks for the update. I do have a question: Is this compatible with the Heng Long battle system?

Haven't tried yet.

[Vaseline]

Good stuff Bob
When I get mine I plan to mess with all the questions too. I have a Tx and 2 Rx's on the way should be any day now
I have hopes it will all work out

I didn't purchase a CS 6.1 MFU so I will have no idea how that will act with the HL Tx
Price point the CS-TK is the best deal at this point We shall see

[SoCalBobS]

Barmonkey; Ok, I plugged a spare HL IR receiver into my TK-26, which is mounted in a robotank I'm working on and shot it with a HL tank.



It worked, so yeah it is compatible. I didn't have a spare IR emitter (or even a turret) on my test vehicle, so I couldn't check that, but I'm sure it's fine.

Vaseline; at least we know the basics now. Carson did mention don't turn on two tanks at one time then the Tx. I think that means you'll either have two tanks running in tandem, or that they won't bind, not sure which.

[Vaseline]

That makes sense
Thanks Bob for the run down

[Zippersnapper]

Barmonkey; Ok, I plugged a spare HL IR receiver into my TK-26, which is mounted in a robotank I'm working on and shot it with a HL tank.



It worked, so yeah it is compatible. I didn't have a spare IR emitter (or even a turret) on my test vehicle, so I couldn't check that, but I'm sure it's fine.

Vaseline; at least we know the basics now. Carson did mention don't turn on two tanks at one time then the Tx. I think that means you'll either have two tanks running in tandem, or that they won't bind, not sure which.

Bob, I have been doing allot of homework on LED's concerning another project Im working on (RC Helicopter/Drone LZ) Breathing Circuits, Flashing circuits, drivers, etc etc.

In the course of my reaserch I found many good LED sources and discovered one site that sells high quality LED's and one catagory in particular (2 actually) caught my attention: IR & UV LED's

You know I dont do IR battles but I do read comments you guys post on the topic. It seems IR LED's come in different wavelengths like any other LED. The 2 that I see is 850nm and 940nm. What wavelength do you guys use in Tank battle? What wavelength is "Tamiya" using? Would a different wavelength be advantagious over the other? Does the wavelength determine compatability? Would "High Power" IR LED's be a superior weapon in Battle? Would using High power IR LED's get you thrown out of an event?

Just curious is all.

[Rubicon99]

950nm LEDs for battle system that are compatible with the Tamiya protocols.

[SoCalBobS]

Many of us replace the stock HL (or any other brand) IR LED's for more powerful bulbs. The stock ones don't register hits beyond 10-20 feet outdoors in sunlight. A common type is listed in the e-address below. 950nm is in the description. I don't know how different wavelengths would fare. The bulbs are paired with the LegiDEI IR receivers which are more sensitive than stock. A tanker with high power IR bulbs and a low sensitive receiver might get his tank accidentally kicked....once or twice! I think the stock IR equipment is made for an indoor environment. A high power IR emission will bounce off walls and make hits whether or not it is pointed correctly.


https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/720-SFH4545

[Rubicon99]

Many of us replace the stock HL (or any other brand) IR LED's for more powerful bulbs. The stock ones don't register hits beyond 10-20 feet outdoors in sunlight. A common type is listed in the e-address below. 950nm is in the description. I don't know how different wavelengths would fare. The bulbs are paired with the LegiDEI IR receivers which are more sensitive than stock. A tanker with high power IR bulbs and a low sensitive receiver might get his tank accidentally kicked....once or twice! I think the stock IR equipment is made for an indoor environment. A high power IR emission will bounce off walls and make hits whether or not it is pointed correctly.


https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/720-SFH4545

The stock HL bulbs when fired at a LegoDEI or Tamiya IR receiver actually has a range much greater then 20 feet in bright sunlight. They can easily out range a stock Tamiya bulb, but do not have the maximum range of a HP bulb. A HL stock bulb should have a hit range of slightly past 100 feet when “brand new”. The HL bulb does tend to loose effectiveness with high usage and age.

An HL bulb when fired at a stock HL IR receiver in bright sunlight does have a very limited effectiveness in the 10-20 foot range. But that is more an issue of the IR receiver then the IR bulb.

[Rebellion13]

Are there any updates on this board? I am thinking of getting this setup if it is a decent board, the price is reasonable. I want to use it for a future Bulldog refurbish

[SoCalBobS]

Haven't heard back from DKLM regarding multiple units being used near each other (tank battles). I do have a "good/bad" observation.

I put the system into a lightweight tank, an all-plastic HL Sherman. I did this to use its servo recoil and elevation capability. The "good" is that those functions are versatile. Both functions required reversing servos, which the board does easily. The "bad" is that there is nearly no low speed, just fast. One can get low speed but it takes a very fine control on the stick. Previously I had put it in a couple heavy tanks, lastly an all metal Mato Sherman, and this "jackrabbit" tendency wasn't apparent. This plastic Sherman is much lighter, and so jumps to speed much faster. I wouldn't put it in an IR battler. Also, LED3 the tail light socket doesn't work, which makes that circuit unusable for the LegoDEI IR receiver LED use.

For me, it'll be a workbench board, for checking out new tanks that don't already have a main board.

[Rebellion13]

Haven't heard back from DKLM regarding multiple units being used near each other (tank battles). I do have a "good/bad" observation.

I put the system into a lightweight tank, an all-plastic HL Sherman. I did this to use its servo recoil and elevation capability. The "good" is that those functions are versatile. Both functions required reversing servos, which the board does easily. The "bad" is that there is nearly no low speed, just fast. One can get low speed but it takes a very fine control on the stick. Previously I had put it in a couple heavy tanks, lastly an all metal Mato Sherman, and this "jackrabbit" tendency wasn't apparent. This plastic Sherman is much lighter, and so jumps to speed much faster. I wouldn't put it in an IR battler. Also, LED3 the tail light socket doesn't work, which makes that circuit unusable for the LegoDEI IR receiver LED use.

For me, it'll be a workbench board, for checking out new tanks that don't already have a main board.

Thank you for the reply. exactly what I needed to know. The Bulldog was given to my son from my brother.....it is the first HL series with the board RX13 I believe that was known to burn out, uses crystals for the transmitter etc. It still works fine after all these years. It won't be used for any battles, it will be used just for goofing around with, I have other tanks set up for battles. Good to know about the speed though, that is what I was most curious about, but for under $70 at most places, might be a fun little project board as you have mentioned. Thanks again.

Cheers
Wade

[SoCalBobS]

Thank you for the reply. exactly what I needed to know. The Bulldog was given to my son from my brother.....it is the first HL series with the board RX13 I believe that was known to burn out, uses crystals for the transmitter etc. It still works fine after all these years. It won't be used for any battles, it will be used just for goofing around with, I have other tanks set up for battles. Good to know about the speed though, that is what I was most curious about, but for under $70 at most places, might be a fun little project board as you have mentioned. Thanks again.

Cheers
Wade

For what you want it for, it's great. It's good quality, it's just that it's not the best for IR battlers.

[Zippersnapper]

Haven't heard back from DKLM regarding multiple units being used near each other (tank battles). I do have a "good/bad" observation.

I put the system into a lightweight tank, an all-plastic HL Sherman. I did this to use its servo recoil and elevation capability. The "good" is that those functions are versatile. Both functions required reversing servos, which the board does easily. The "bad" is that there is nearly no low speed, just fast. One can get low speed but it takes a very fine control on the stick. Previously I had put it in a couple heavy tanks, lastly an all metal Mato Sherman, and this "jackrabbit" tendency wasn't apparent. This plastic Sherman is much lighter, and so jumps to speed much faster. I wouldn't put it in an IR battler. Also, LED3 the tail light socket doesn't work, which makes that circuit unusable for the LegoDEI IR receiver LED use.

For me, it'll be a workbench board, for checking out new tanks that don't already have a main board.

Bob, rear tail lights: Function key + Left stick, left.....It lights up this white LED with a forward voltage of 3.8 just fine...

[SoCalBobS]

Thanks Ken. Actually I misspoke. I connect my LegoDEI lights to LED3. It does work just as you said. What I was trying to say is that I hook up tanks that have taillights normally on LED3 to LED2 on HL boards which is "brakelights" to free up LED3. The TK26 doesn't have a brakelight function on LED2.

[Zippersnapper]

Thanks Ken. Actually I misspoke. I connect my LegoDEI lights to LED3. It does work just as you said. What I was trying to say is that I hook up tanks that have taillights normally on LED3 to LED2 on HL boards which is "brakelights" to free up LED3. The TK26 doesn't have a brakelight function on LED2.

Roger that my friend

[SoCalBobS]

Haven't heard back from DKLM regarding multiple units being used near each other (tank battles). I do have a "good/bad" observation.

I put the system into a lightweight tank, an all-plastic HL Sherman. I did this to use its servo recoil and elevation capability. The "good" is that those functions are versatile. Both functions required reversing servos, which the board does easily. The "bad" is that there is nearly no low speed, just fast. One can get low speed but it takes a very fine control on the stick. Previously I had put it in a couple heavy tanks, lastly an all metal Mato Sherman, and this "jackrabbit" tendency wasn't apparent. This plastic Sherman is much lighter, and so jumps to speed much faster. I wouldn't put it in an IR battler. Also, LED3 the tail light socket doesn't work, which makes that circuit unusable for the LegoDEI IR receiver LED use.

For me, it'll be a workbench board, for checking out new tanks that don't already have a main board.

Quoting myself....I confirmed the jackrabbit tendency! I swapped out the TK26 for a Heng long 7.1. A HUGE difference! 7.1 is so much smoother and controllable. No update from DKLM on multiple unit use.

[keilau]

The YK26/TK26 is on sale for $42.90 plus $20 shipping at Toucan Hobby. It is a cheaper way to try servo recoil/servo elevation than the HL TK-7.1 system.

https://www.toucanhobby.com/products/th21663-dzn1

I ordered one set to replace the HL TK-6.0S on the Leopard 2A6.