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Heng Long MERKAVA review, build out and field testing.

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  • keilau
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    HL so all metal is not chassis.
    I cannot understand your sentence. From all the reference I can find, the Heng Long all metal Merkava has a metal chassis and is very expensive.
    Discover ToucanHobby's collection of high-quality hydraulic engineering vehicles, tank replicas, and ship models. Enjoy our detailed, meticulously crafted models suitable for enthusiasts and collectors alike.


    Can you provide a link for you Heng Long all metal Merkava?

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    HL so all metal is not chassis.

    Leave a comment:


  • keilau
    replied
    Originally posted by Evan D View Post
    I am very happy with my all metal Merkava with red motors. Good trouble free tank.
    What brand do you have? Hooben or Heng Long? An all metal merkava is a hand crafted tank costing 3-4 times more than the HL plastic chassis Professional version Merkava. The Heng Long all metal Merkava is $1100 at Amazon. It is a different class of game.
    https://www.amazon.com/TOUCAN-RC-HOBBY-HengLong-Military/dp/B0CL4VFCRJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp

    HOOBEN 1/16 Merkava Israel RC Battle Tank Model No.6617 – Peach Frog

    Leave a comment:


  • Evan D
    replied
    I am very happy with my all metal Merkava with red motors. Good trouble free tank.

    Leave a comment:


  • keilau
    replied
    Originally posted by Woohoo\o/ View Post
    Thanks. I will order me a spare set of tracks for the impending stretch.
    I ended up upgrading to the Hooben nylon track and spocket. For the Heng Long track, the wear and stretching comes from its open pin design. The completely enclosed Hooben track is much higher quality.
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  • Woohoo\o/
    replied
    Thanks. I will order me a spare set of tracks for the impending stretch.

    Leave a comment:


  • RichJohnson
    replied
    Not necessary as the plastic wheels etc won’t wear the plastic track much, it holds up quite well. I have both versions. The pro is a beast. I actually like the plastic tracks, but aside from being in the basic and upgrade versions you can’t find it separately, only the metal.
    all track will stretch over time, be prepared for that.

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  • Woohoo\o/
    replied
    I just ordered the “upgrade” version and I’m pumped. I wanted the pro version but couldn’t afford it. Are the metal tracks a must upgrade?

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubicon99
    replied
    Originally posted by HPVictor View Post
    Hello everyone. I have 2 questions about the HL Merkava. (I have just bought one.) 1, When holding the gun barrel between thumb and forefinger, I can rotate it slightly a few degrees left and right. Is this normal? 2, There is a round short tube thing to the right and just behind the hatch on top of the turret. Mine is open but some models seem to have it closed with a little knob on top. Any clues about this? Thank you.
    The barrel movement is normal.

    Leave a comment:


  • HPVictor
    replied
    Hello everyone. I have 2 questions about the HL Merkava. (I have just bought one.) 1, When holding the gun barrel between thumb and forefinger, I can rotate it slightly a few degrees left and right. Is this normal? 2, There is a round short tube thing to the right and just behind the hatch on top of the turret. Mine is open but some models seem to have it closed with a little knob on top. Any clues about this? Thank you.

    Leave a comment:


  • keilau
    replied
    Originally posted by Max-U52 View Post
    This video shows me using the robogrip to press on the outer half of a P4 metal roadwheel. Skip ahead to about 2 minutes for that.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XASZk_R_hbM
    Use the robogrip piler instead of an arbo press for light job is a widely used practice in machine shops, research lab and model shops world wide. I do not take an video, but that's how I fit the metal road wheels onto the suspension arms of the HL Merkava, thanks for your brass foil suggestion to fix the under sized arm axles.
    Click image for larger version

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  • Max-U52
    replied
    This video shows me using the robogrip to press on the outer half of a P4 metal roadwheel. Skip ahead to about 2 minutes for that.


    Leave a comment:


  • RichJohnson
    replied
    Originally posted by Max-U52 View Post
    If you have access to a pair, try the craftsman robo grip pliers. Unlike channel locks, the jaws come together evenly instead of pivoting on the rear point. This makes them almost like a tiny little Arbor press, rather than a pair of pliers. I first used them to install the return rollers on a Pz4 and they worked just great.
    Robo grip…. Wow that is something I have not heard in a great many years. I was selling Craftsman tools in 1996 when the Robo grip was released. I still have my 3 piece set in my tool box.

    Leave a comment:


  • keilau
    replied
    Originally posted by Max-U52 View Post
    If you have access to a pair, try the craftsman robo grip pliers. Unlike channel locks, the jaws come together evenly instead of pivoting on the rear point. This makes them almost like a tiny little Arbor press, rather than a pair of pliers. I first used them to install the return rollers on a Pz4 and they worked just great.
    Very good suggestion. In fact, I use the grip piler 70% of the time when I need an arbor press. It is very convenient. For thicker piece, I use a clamp. The key is to compress the pieces slowly and gently.

    Leave a comment:


  • Max-U52
    replied
    If you have access to a pair, try the craftsman robo grip pliers. Unlike channel locks, the jaws come together evenly instead of pivoting on the rear point. This makes them almost like a tiny little Arbor press, rather than a pair of pliers. I first used them to install the return rollers on a Pz4 and they worked just great.

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Originally posted by keilau View Post
    I use a C-clamp. Turning the C-clamp slowly to push the hub cap in works for me every time. In most cases, your thumb is not strong enough to push into metal. You can file down the ream of the hub slightly to make it easier to start the press. Friction fit is a very common shop practice. It works on the slight elasticity of metal. It is your choice to hammer or use gentle pressure.
    My other HL 15 tanks with metal wheels/tracks I do not have this issue at all. Maybe HL makes the hub slightly larger this time so they can be tapped into place? Dai

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Hi all,

    As I feared missing part on my tank again. I checked checked checked and not in the box. Time to go through another claim with MRC and I hope they find my order this time ! Dai

    Leave a comment:


  • keilau
    replied
    Originally posted by dai phan View Post
    Gentle press fit was not possible by any means. I had to support the base and hammer the hell out to get them to go down! Dai
    I use a C-clamp. Turning the C-clamp slowly to push the hub cap in works for me every time. In most cases, your thumb is not strong enough to push into metal. You can file down the ream of the hub slightly to make it easier to start the press. Friction fit is a very common shop practice. It works on the slight elasticity of metal. It is your choice to hammer or use gentle pressure.

    Leave a comment:


  • dai phan
    replied
    Originally posted by keilau View Post
    Don't worry. The hub cap press fit is done on purpose so that they stay in place during operation yet still removeable when you need to. A gentle pressure using a C-clamp or similar tool is much preferred over hammer.
    Gentle press fit was not possible by any means. I had to support the base and hammer the hell out to get them to go down! Dai

    Leave a comment:


  • keilau
    replied
    Originally posted by dai phan View Post
    Hi all,

    I start assembling the tank tonight. The metal hub caps are bigger than the holes requiring me to use the hammer to hammer them in. I am sure that process has cracked something. Not good way to start. Dai
    Don't worry. The hub cap press fit is done on purpose so that they stay in place during operation yet still removeable when you need to. A gentle pressure using a C-clamp or similar tool is much preferred over hammer.

    Leave a comment:

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