One screw holds the bottom of the turret to he top of the turret. The bottom stays in the hull, unless you take apart all the stuff holding it and the ball bearings in the hull, like I did… which I can’t recommend.
So, take the upper hull off, find the one screw that holes the top of the turret to the bottom and remove it. You will also have to remove the servo linkage for one servo, elevation I think it was. Then the top comes out of the bottom.
then you can work on it but you will have to put the top and bottom back together to make a new servo linkage and hook up the arm.
Taking the bottom of the turret out with all those ball bearings just sucked.
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Question for those who have delved into the interior of your Coolbank tank: What is the secret of the turret? Specifically, I want to get inside it, but I see what appears to be a ring of loose ball bearings where it meets the hull. Anything I should or shouldn't do to get past that point? TIA.
Right now I'm troubleshooting a balky recoil linkage on Coolbank's Crusader Mk III, but I imagine the design is the same.
For anyone who hasn't examined their Coolbank interior, I see a clever system for the turret rotation. Instead of a Heng Long ring gear on the turret and a gearbox running it, Coolbank has a servo with a rubber wheel running against a finely ridged turret cylinder. This means if you turn the turret by hand, or for instance bump it, there is no gear or gearbox to damage, it just slips.Leave a comment:
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I have had that exact problem, luckily I haven't ran it much and noticed a pin sticking out before it came out completely and pushed it back it, it's not a tight fit at all and seems to depend on the spring tension to keep it in place, and there really isn;t much tension there. I'm thinking a bit of RTV would hold it in place, the trick is getting where it needs to be.
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I'm sure it's my superior driving skills and not the fact that all the weight is up front so it spins on a dime...
I did manage to stop playing with it long enough to get get all the detail parts installed and removed 1 link from each track, I think that actually snugged it up a bit too much, definitely preloading the front bogies a bit.
It's also a bit annoying that the motor/transmission noise is louder than the sound.
At some point this winter I'll pull the top off and have a look around and see what I can address. Definitely not disappointed with it, amused would be a better word ")
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Having ridden in an M5 during a reenactment years ago and know how fast they can go and smelling the rubber pads burning driving down the street,I have to say I never thought I would see a Stewart drifting lolLeave a comment:
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Didn't even realize it was tape, figured it was paint like the HLs always have, thanks ")
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It's great tank for the price.
Yours is the first one I've heard of that had the smoke work out of the box.
Nice video. Don't forget to take the tape off your headlights btw.
Steve. 😀Leave a comment:
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Came a day early, pretty much as I expected it to be, gave it quick out of box test, everything works including smoke. The speed and handling are what I was expecting from other's experience, but my overall first impressions are positive given I had a clue what t was buying thanks to others experiences. I really like the radio compared to the HL/Tongde, enough that I not keen on replacing it with the HL 7.1, guess we'll see how I like the running as is once I get used to it more than anything. The recoil is nice, seems synched better than the HL system I've seen.
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The M5s gearbox is a "dual current" / "cross drive" type. It's all plastic and nylon gears. It's actually proving quite reliable and robust but that is to be expected given the light weight of the tank and small motors used. There are a number of photos of it dismantled online, mostly Facebook.Leave a comment:
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Tongde use very soft metal for the gearbox case. But the design is not much different from other closed box design for Heng Long. I strongly recommend that you replace the mounting screws with steel screw and be gentle when remounting the gearbox.
Another worthwhile upgrade is replace the motor with 390 motors. You can find a lot of suggestions from the M60A3 review by @Rubincon99 . My M60A1 upgrade followed his script.
https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc...ve-reliabilityLeave a comment:
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I've been reading that from people, probably the first thing i do, first thing I did on my Tongde M60 was install a 7.0 MCU, instant improvement in running at least. Right now I'm just trying to find details on the gearbox operation, I've yet to even see anyone who's had the cover off, I'm guessing there's a reason for that, too many fling things under the lid?Leave a comment:
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Toucan usually is the only one with the Heng Long stuff I need other than oem parts so I do the most with them, I do get a kick out of their pricing games on fleabay though, I just search by lowest overall price with shipping and start low balling ")
Mine was $129 shipped from their NJ warehouseLeave a comment:
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From what I have seen, they need to have a li k removed from each side of the tracks because they are too long. The wheels need to be oiled and they are way too fast. A hl 7.1 system would make it run much better.Leave a comment:
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The total price you pay is the item price plus shipping plus tax. Because of competition, the difference in total price is small except for some Amazon sellers. It is more important to establish reliable communication with the seller to get after sales service if you need it.
I have purchased from BangGood and Toucan Hobby multiple times. Both are reliable independent sellers.
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I bought it mainly as a cheap way to flesh out my US tank collection, a few videos ripped into them so I have a clue what's going on inside, doesn't seem to be any real aftermarket stuff for them so I'll stick the details on and it will look nice sitting next to the Sharman if nothing else.Leave a comment:
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