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Unofficial Coolbank M5A1 Stuart 1/16 Scale Light Tank Discussion Thread

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  • Came a day early, pretty much as I expected it to be, gave it quick out of box test, everything works including smoke. The speed and handling are what I was expecting from other's experience, but my overall first impressions are positive given I had a clue what t was buying thanks to others experiences. I really like the radio compared to the HL/Tongde, enough that I not keen on replacing it with the HL 7.1, guess we'll see how I like the running as is once I get used to it more than anything. The recoil is nice, seems synched better than the HL system I've seen.

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    • It's great tank for the price.
      Yours is the first one I've heard of that had the smoke work out of the box.
      Nice video. Don't forget to take the tape off your headlights btw.

      Steve. 😀

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      • Didn't even realize it was tape, figured it was paint like the HLs always have, thanks ")

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        • yup, it's a snowmobile

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          • Having ridden in an M5 during a reenactment years ago and know how fast they can go and smelling the rubber pads burning driving down the street,I have to say I never thought I would see a Stewart drifting lol
            RC tank parts and accessories I make
            www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

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            • I'm sure it's my superior driving skills and not the fact that all the weight is up front so it spins on a dime...

              I did manage to stop playing with it long enough to get get all the detail parts installed and removed 1 link from each track, I think that actually snugged it up a bit too much, definitely preloading the front bogies a bit.

              It's also a bit annoying that the motor/transmission noise is louder than the sound.

              At some point this winter I'll pull the top off and have a look around and see what I can address. Definitely not disappointed with it, amused would be a better word ")

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              • Need a pinup girl on that tank
                RC tank parts and accessories I make
                www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

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                • ​ Friend of mine has the m5, great little tank, however he has one problem with it, the pins that keep the bogies aligned while they are working have fallen out. Has anyone else had this problem?

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                  • I have had that exact problem, luckily I haven't ran it much and noticed a pin sticking out before it came out completely and pushed it back it, it's not a tight fit at all and seems to depend on the spring tension to keep it in place, and there really isn;t much tension there. I'm thinking a bit of RTV would hold it in place, the trick is getting where it needs to be.

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                    • I'm tempted to try small machine screws and a touch of rubber cement

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                      • Question for those who have delved into the interior of your Coolbank tank: What is the secret of the turret? Specifically, I want to get inside it, but I see what appears to be a ring of loose ball bearings where it meets the hull. Anything I should or shouldn't do to get past that point? TIA.

                        Right now I'm troubleshooting a balky recoil linkage on Coolbank's Crusader Mk III, but I imagine the design is the same.

                        For anyone who hasn't examined their Coolbank interior, I see a clever system for the turret rotation. Instead of a Heng Long ring gear on the turret and a gearbox running it, Coolbank has a servo with a rubber wheel running against a finely ridged turret cylinder. This means if you turn the turret by hand, or for instance bump it, there is no gear or gearbox to damage, it just slips.
                        The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!

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                        • One screw holds the bottom of the turret to he top of the turret. The bottom stays in the hull, unless you take apart all the stuff holding it and the ball bearings in the hull, like I did… which I can’t recommend.

                          So, take the upper hull off, find the one screw that holes the top of the turret to the bottom and remove it. You will also have to remove the servo linkage for one servo, elevation I think it was. Then the top comes out of the bottom.
                          then you can work on it but you will have to put the top and bottom back together to make a new servo linkage and hook up the arm.
                          Taking the bottom of the turret out with all those ball bearings just sucked.
                          RC tank parts and accessories I make
                          www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

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                          • Thanks, I knew I could count on you! Makes so much more sense to have that one screw than removing all those ball bearings. It's actually the Crusader I need to get into.
                            The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!

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                            • Click image for larger version

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                              RC tank parts and accessories I make
                              www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

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                              • Hello. I'm new to the forum and I recently saw the post about the Coolbank M5. It looked really nice, so I ordered one and received it this evening. I'm in the process of charging the batteries, so I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. The only thing that was missing from the sealed box was the manual for the transmitter. I've searched online with no luck in finding one. I was wondering if you all might have a pdf copy that you could send to me. I would really appreciate it.

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                                • There probably aren’t any pdf copies of it. I’m surprised you didn’t get a manual. I believe I tossed mine out with the radio I removed.
                                  you could try contacting coolbank on his Facebook page.
                                  RC tank parts and accessories I make
                                  www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

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                                  • Hello
                                    I may have missed something in previous posts, but you can slow the Stuart and Crusader down. It’s on page 4 (the high lighted section) using K button and the joysticks. What it doesn’t say is the switch F1 needs to be up in the fast mode.
                                    Also the turret speed can be adjusted the same way. If the neutral point/midpoint shifts you can correct it by following the previous highlighted section (C button plus joysticks). It took me a few attempts trying different levels but the result is a lot better.
                                    You will find you can slow the tanks down but still leave the steering motor at full power to maintain manoeuvrability on rougher ground.

                                    David​

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                                    • Originally posted by Dwayne View Post
                                      Hello. I'm new to the forum and I recently saw the post about the Coolbank M5. It looked really nice, so I ordered one and received it this evening. I'm in the process of charging the batteries, so I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. The only thing that was missing from the sealed box was the manual for the transmitter. I've searched online with no luck in finding one. I was wondering if you all might have a pdf copy that you could send to me. I would really appreciate it.
                                      The manual is on the Motion RC Website, along with the transmitter manual as well.

                                      Buy Coolbank US M5A1 Stuart Green 1/16 Scale Tank - RTR online at Motion RC. Order online with fast delivery.

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                                      • Anyone know if "SUPER SPIN" mode can be disabled? Manual as far as I can tell makes no mention of it, but you never know! Thanks in advanced.

                                        VR

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                                        • I just received my Stuart. I ordered the "weathered" version. It doesn't appear to have any type of weathering. Did they send me the wrong version? All the numbers on the boxes seem to be correct. Does the tank itself have version numbers anywhere on it? The weathered version costs a little more than the base version.
                                          Does anyone have any information on this issue?
                                          Thanks

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