TONGDE TANKS

[dai phan]

Pretty much every model company is guilty of using multiple vehicles as reference and muddling up the details between models. Even the Tamiya 1/16 Abrams has part inconsistencies between the M1A1, the M1A2, and the M1A2 SEP.

There are other compromises for manufacturers to be able to inject plastic for molding reliably, save cost, and make the parts durable. These companies don't make the tanks for enthusiasts, they make them for mass market focusing on children. I say that because otherwise they wouldn't include a BB option. The enthusiast side is much smaller than the mass market side and the masses like things that shoot.

Modeling tanks is more about deciding whether or not you care about accuracy or you don't. If you don't...go wild. If you do then it's more about choosing one tank and depicting it at a point in time because that tank is not the same in depot as it is in the field IMO. Soldiers make mods to their vehicles to make them better for their mission, but that doesn't mean that mod is good for a mission in a different theater of operations. I'm a little in the middle of these philosophies. I like my tanks to be plausible, but they don't have to be exact to a specific tank. I like to see that a rope is holding that gizmo to the tank, I don't want to see stowage mounted on parts of the tank that limit the tank's ability to do it's job, I like plausible camo/markings, and I like my tanks to be fairly reliable. If it's a choice between reliability and accuracy, I personally go with reliability. My tanks are used for battles and that in itself messes with rivet counting.

Bottom line is that all of these tanks are "toys" and not scale models. Closing the gap between toy and scale model is up to the owner *if* that's what the owner wants. Lots of folks are content to buy a tank and just use it till it breaks.

I find it odd these tanks are marketed for children but yet the complexities like installing the detail parts, maintaining the electronics/mechanics are totally unaprropriate for them. Dai

[dai phan]

I know this is not historically correct but until I get 80 era tank crew, it will have to do for now. Dai

[Rubicon99]

I find it odd these tanks are marketed for children but yet the complexities like installing the detail parts, maintaining the electronics/mechanics are totally unaprroprite for them. Dai

You are thinking modern American children. These tanks would have been total age appropriate for American children back in the 50s, 60s, 70s and even into the 80s. I remember much more complex motorized and unsafe toys back then. Heck back then LEGOs did not even have "choking hazard" warnings because it was understood not to put them in your mouth of let children under 10 play with them. Don't even get me start on "tinker toys" and how dangerous those are considered for children today.

[dai phan]

You are thinking modern American children. These tanks would have been total age appropriate for American children back in the 50s, 60s, 70s and even into the 80s. I remember much more complex motorized and unsafe toys back then. Heck back then LEGOs did not even have "choking hazard" warnings because it was understood not to put them in your mouth of let children under 10 play with them. Don't even get me start on "tinker toys" and how dangerous those are considered for children today.

But in the 50-80s, HL did not even exist? Dai

[dai phan]

Hi all,

My order from Rich has arrived. I have not opened the hull yet but is installing the barrel recoil pretty simple? Also what LED do I need to install in the search light? Thanks Dai

[Rubicon99]

Hi all,

My order from Rich has arrived. I have not opened the hull yet but is installing the barrel recoil pretty simple? Also what LED do I need to install in the search light? Thanks Dai

PM Rich about the barrel install it is relatively easy process once you have the turret taken apart.

The light I can post some photos of one being turned into an operating light if you want. Any white LED will work as long as it is rated to run at less than 12v.

[dai phan]

PM Rich about the barrel install it is relatively easy process once you have the turret taken apart.

The light I can post some photos of one being turned into an operating light if you want. Any white LED will work as long as it is rated to run at less than 12v.

Please post photos on your installation of the search light. A link to the correct LED is appreciated. Dai

[Rubicon99]

Please post photos on your installation of the search light. A link to the correct LED is appreciated. Dai

Really any small LED you can find on Amazon. There is not any one specific small LED. Just make sure the LED can operate at less than 12v because the MFU slot to run the LED is something like 6-8v max output on the HL 7.0/7.1 or TD MFU.

Honestly I don't use the light much if at all. It's cool to turn on a few times then you kinda get over it. On two of my tanks I don't even have it set up to light up, just there as a static enhancement piece.

I will post a few photos soon.

[dai phan]

Howdy,

Forgive me for being naieve but what is the best way to replace the TD M60 metal to plastic track? Do I adjust the idler wheel so the metal track becomes loose then switch over to the plastic then tighten?

[Rubicon99]

Please post photos on your installation of the search light. A link to the correct LED is appreciated. Dai

Here are a few basic photos but they should give the idea of what needs to be done.

[Rubicon99]

Howdy,

Forgive me for being naieve but what is the best way to replace the TD M60 metal to plastic track? Do I adjust the idler wheel so the metal track becomes loose then switch over to the plastic then tighten?

First make sure you "tap" all the plastic track pins in so they are more or less flush.

Remove the upper hull first. Then loosen the idler wheels. This should allow you enough slack to easily remove the metal track.

Install the plastic tracks on the tank and adjust the idler wheels so the track is rather tight with very little slack then tighten the idler.

The M60 needs the track tight to ensure that while climbing or driving over obstacles that the track does not bind on the sprockets as the suspension flexes and the track becomes less tight. This is normal for all tanks, but the M60 with it's fairly generous and realistic amount of suspension travel compared to other RC tanks sees the bindings happen more if the track is not properly tensioned.

[dai phan]

First make sure you "tap" all the plastic track pins in so they are more or less flush.

Remove the upper hull first. Then loosen the idler wheels. This should allow you enough slack to easily remove the metal track.

Install the plastic tracks on the tank and adjust the idler wheels so the track is rather tight with very little slack then tighten the idler.

The M60 needs the track tight to ensure that while climbing or driving over obstacles that the track does not bind on the sprockets as the suspension flexes and the track becomes less tight. This is normal for all tanks, but the M60 with it's fairly generous and realistic amount of suspension travel compared to other RC tanks sees the bindings happen more if the track is not properly tensioned.

I have seen YT video where Rch warns about backing up over ostacles as that may break some parts. I wonder if TD has addresed the issue? Is this the right LED? Dai

[dai phan]

Hi all,

Tonight I will change out the tracks, install the barrel recoil, install the search light (plan to put light) and scale antenna. Dai

[dai phan]

Greetings,

I know Rich has sold tons of these recoil units. Rich has sent me a detailed text on how to install. Does anyone have any photos of the installed unit to help me out? Dai

[Rubicon99]

Greetings,

I know Rich has sold tons of these recoil units. Rich has sent me a detailed text on how to install. Does anyone have any photos of the installed unit to help me out? Dai

There numerous threads here on HS that cover the installation of his recoils both on TD and HL tanks.

[dai phan]

Hi all,

I follow Rubicon advise and replaced the tracks. There is no adjustments to the idler wheel position and the tracks just snap in place. A gentle push is all needed for the hex screw to go in the idler wheel. Huge difference in weight reduction! I notice the metal screws are really soft and prone to stripping. Is there standard hex screws with better material that I can replace? I replace the antenna and it is great that is made out of rubber material. No more breakage from now on. MRC sent me the replacement parts but sadly they sent the ERA instead. I need the correct A3 parts as the seach light mounts on these missing parts. The recoil assembly looks intimidating so I put off for now. I will paint tne tank in desert sand and I already ordered Tamiya XF 59. This will be my first time armor painting so I want to keep it simple as I can. Dai

[dai phan]

With the metal tracks being replaced as said to ensure better running, there is no need to pay for the "Pro Plus" version as 130 extra dollars buys you painted wheels. Something can be easily done under 1 buck with basic painting skill. Dai

[Rubicon99]

Hi all,

I follow Rubicon advice dler adjustmenand replaced the tracks. There is no adjustments to the idler wheel position and the tracks just snap in place. A gentle push is all needed for the hex screw to go in the idler wheel. Huge difference in weight reduction! I notice the metal screws are really soft and prone to stripping. Is there standard hex screws with better material that I can replace? I replace the antenna and it is great that is made out of rubber material. No more breakage from now on. MRC sent me the replacement parts but sadly they sent the ERA instead. I need the correct A3 parts as the seach light mounts on these missing parts. The recoil assembly looks intimidating so I put off for now. I will paint tne tank in desert sand and I already ordered Tamiya XF 59. This will be my first time armor painting so I want to keep it simple as I can. Dai

The idler adjustment is located inside the front of the lower hull. Two screws on either side wall. Loosen these and pull the idler wheel out slight and rotate forward or back as needed. Once in position hold the idler wheel in place and retighten the hull screw. It's also in the instructions manual on how to do this.

Now you probably lucked out and did not have to make any adjustment at this time given that the suspension springs are factory set for a heavier tank and as such will slightly lift the tank now that it is lighter. This will cause the track to be initially tighter but as you drive the tank the track will "stretch" and loosen up. Don't worry this is absolutely normal for all tanks and adjustments have to be made from time to time in order to maintain proper track tension. Proper tension is very important on "modern" tanks like the M60, Abrams, Leopard and others.

The recoil unit is actually very easy to install. The hardest part is taking the tank turrets apart. But this is true even for HengLong, Torro and Taigen tanks as well when installing any servo recoil system. It's a good skill to learn because they are all very similar and once you do one the rest becomes easier and easier.

[keilau]

Now you probably lucked out and did not have to make any adjustment at this time given that the suspension springs are factory set for a heavier tank and as such will slightly lift the tank now that it is lighter. This will cause the track to be initially tighter but as you drive the tank the track will "stretch" and loosen up. Don't worry this is absolutely normal for all tanks and adjustments have to be made from time to time in order to maintain proper track tension. Proper tension is very important on "modern" tanks like the M60, Abrams, Leopard and others.

This is good advice for using plastic tracks, all of which stretch noticeably over relative short period of time. I much prefer nylon or metal tracks whose weight adds traction for the tank and does not measurably stretch quickly.

[dai phan]

Hi all,

I discover my error in placing the long antenna. I thought it would replace the TD short one but it is placed on the other side of the tank. Time to fill and sand the error. Dai