1/16 Tongde M24 Chaffee Modifications

[rb67mustang]

More progress to follow.

[rb67mustang]

Here's an image showing the styrene pieces filling the hole.

The inside

[rb67mustang]

After the glue dried, the excess styrene was cut off, and is was ground and sanded. Then a small amount of Bondo was applied and sanded. It looks great. But in the process, I decided to sand off the bullet guards on both of the hatches. One of the guards was partially ground away as the windshield mount was removed. It was easier to sand the Bondo.

This images shows the bullet guard at the right side of the windshield completely ground off.


Bondo goes on, and sanded.


While I waited for the Bondo to dry, I sanded off the strap detail from the new battery cover. It took a while, but I think it looks better than seeing the saw cut going through it.

[rb67mustang]

The Bondo was sanded, and shot with primer. What do you think about the removed bullet guards???



A different angle of view.

[rb67mustang]

Next, I tweaked the torsion bars to give the M24 more ground clearance. I'm not sure if I lifted it up too much. With the tracks on, it has 1 11/32" ground clearance (1/32" less than 1 3/8"). I had to add one track link to the tracks.

I've always used aluminum angle to cover the jaws of my bench vise. I drew the angle (40 degrees) with a sharpie, so each side of the torsion bar would be twisted the same amount.

It's an easy modification to do, except the lower hull must be gutted to have access to the 5 torsion bars.

[rb67mustang]

Here's the side view with the fender skirt delete upper hull, and the ground clearance measured.



Clearance measured.

[Rubicon99]

Here's the side view with the fender skirt delete upper hull, and the ground clearance measured.



Clearance measured.

Much nicer more realistically stance. You will also find it actually drives better with the higher stance then with the factory one.

[rb67mustang]

Much nicer more realistically stance. You will also find it actually drives better with the higher stance then with the factory one.

Thank you, Rubicon99, after all, I read what you had done to your M24, I liked it, and I copied it. Thanks for sharing your modification!!!

[rb67mustang]

Next, I'll be addressing the sloppy fit of the 75mm gun pivot. Measuring the pivot hole/cradle isn't going to be easy. I'll measure it as best as possible with my preferred 6" scale, and then I'll turn a piece of a wood dowel in the lathe for a more accurate fit. After knowing the size, I'll make a couple of aluminum sheeves, and glue then onto the existing plastic pivot pins. I'll also relocate the screw hole that attaches the mantlet onto the gun body so they're clear of the pivot pins.

I'm also thinking to move the elevation servo, and to give it a better attaching point.

After the turret repair and modifications are finished, I'll cut the missing teeth in the turret gear and install a slip ring for continuous 360 degree rotation!!!!!!!

[rb67mustang]

So here's a 5 minute video explaining the M24's Turret problems, and what I'm planning to do to solve them.

Actually, there are only 10 wires going into my M24's turret because it's not going to be used in IR battIes.

[rb67mustang]

First, I repaired the gun pivot points.

[rb67mustang]

While I was using my lathe, I decided to turn down the muzzle end of the gun barrel due to it being oversize.

[rb67mustang]

More progress later, I have to go out.

[rb67mustang]

Next, I reassembled the gun, and I drilled new holes to attach the rear portion of the gun body. Then I checked the fit and movement of the gun with the turret assembled.

[rb67mustang]

That's it for today. Tomorrow, I'll cut the missing teeth in the turret gear for 360 degree rotation.

[rb67mustang]

Cutting the new, or missing teeth from a turret gear is an easy modification. There are videos on Commietube (Youtube) showing how it's done. The few times I've done it, I usually have another gear that's either the same size, or a little bit smaller. I line up the two gears, and clamp them together, and I scribe the shape of the missing teeth. If you don't have a gear to trace, measure the width of the uncut tab, and draw a line in the middle. Then measure between two teeth to get the center distance. Then draw a line on each side of the center of the tab to represent the middle of the three teeth. Free hand draw the rough shape of the teeth to be cut.

Put a cutoff disc in your Dremel, and hold it in your left hand so the rotation of the cutoff wheel is turning away from you. Don't hold the Dremel in your right hand because all the melted plastic will hide the lines of the teeth. First cut in the middle of the teeth, and then cut the angles leaving some material. Hold it up to the gear in the turret traverse unit to check your progress. Then cut away more material and check it again, until the newly cut teeth roll freely over the traverse drive gear.

The scribed lines can be seen in this image.



Then the teeth are cut, and filed a bit, and it's finished!!!

[rb67mustang]

Here's an image before testing the modified turret gear.



Here's a 360 degree test video to see how well the modification works.

That's it for today. Next I'll be making a new roller mount to elevate the gun.

[761st]

I had the same problem with my hatch. At first, I built a magnet connection. Which eventually broke. But seems the pull of the magnets straightened it out. Maybe leave "weights" on it for a while ?.

[rb67mustang]

I had the same problem with my hatch. At first, I built a magnet connection. Which eventually broke. But seems the pull of the magnets straightened it out. Maybe leave "weights" on it for a while ?.

Thank you very much! I appreciate your interest in my build.